by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics
When I was first learning how to garden…
I used to think that 32 degrees was the temperature I needed to keep an eye on for my flower plants.
32 degrees is when water freezes, so that must be the point when my flowers will freeze too, right?
But over time, I’ve learned:
There are levels of frost and freezing that affect plants in different ways.
32 degrees isn’t the magic number for all plants.
(Because Mama Nature makes her own rules, y’all!)
So, in this article, I want to share tips I wish I had understood sooner, so you’re a step ahead as a gardener. As our temperatures dip in states like Colorado and Utah, I hope this article helps you understand:
- What’s going on with the annuals and perennials in your garden
- Which flowers you may want to cover and protect (if you want them to last longer)
- Why the heck some of your plants still look good — while others may be a mushy mess!
In gardeners’ terms, annuals are flowers that live for a single year, but don’t return. Perennials are flowers that come back for multiple years.
Here’s a quick summary:
Between 36 and 29 degrees, your most vulnerable flowers are your “tender annuals.”
Tender annuals are your one-season flowers that like warm air and warm soil to grow. They like having “warm feet,” meaning they want their roots to be comfortably warm. These are the guys you definitely want to cover if you want them to last longer. (You can see examples further down this post.)
When you reach 28 degrees or below, more of your flowers will be affected.
Keep in mind, there are always exceptions with Mother Nature. I’ve shared some of them down at the end of this post. Nonetheless, this will give you a good overview.
Let’s start with frost because it often shows up first.
Frost
When temperatures reach 36 degrees (or below) AND the moisture conditions are right
Frost is a thin layer of water vapor that turns into ice on the surface of your plants. When ice forms on the surface of your plants, the water inside your plants can freeze too, causing the cells to rupture and lose all their water.
And this can damage or kill your plants.
If the moisture conditions are right for frost, you can get it when temperatures reach 36 degrees or below.
As I mentioned earlier, between 36 and 29 degrees, frost often has the biggest effect on your tender annuals.
Have you ever had a friend visit from a city like San Diego? When our temperatures are 50 degrees, you’re thinking about wearing shorts… but your friend wants to put on a parka. Your friend from San Diego is like your tender flowers. These plants do not adjust well to the cold.
These flowers are happiest when temperatures are warmer. They’re VERY sensitive to frosts and cold temperatures.
Light freeze
Between 32 and 29 degrees
You know the tender annuals we’ve been talking about? The temperatures in a light freeze will likely kill them. A light freeze takes place between 32 and 29 degrees. If you’re catching your local weather report, you’ll hear your weather forecasters call this a “freeze warning.”
What are examples of tender flowers? You may recognize some of the annuals below.
In my garden, sweet potato vine (pictured above) is ALWAYS the first plant to get nipped.
A light freeze also can damage how your hardier flowers look. Usually, though, it’s just cosmetic damage.
Hard freeze (National Weather Service language)
Between 28 and 25 degrees
A hard freeze should severely damage or kill most of your annual flowers — even your hardier flowers that are happier in chillier temps.
Master gardeners sometimes call this a “moderate freeze.” However, I’ve used the hard freeze language from the National Weather Service here because it’s what you’ll see on a weather app or hear on a forecast. When the weather forecasters say, “There’s a hard freeze warning tonight,” they’re talking about the threshold of 28 degrees or below.
It’s going to be destructive to your annuals if you don’t protect them.
This is the temperature zone where you may start noticing damage to some of your perennials too. For example, you may notice their leaves turning a dark color or becoming a little gooey.
Hard, severe or killing freeze
24 degrees (or colder)
This freeze will likely cause widespread damage to the exposed flowers, leaves and stems on many perennials. (It can depend on how protected your flowers are in your yard, and it also depends on the type of plant.)
This is also the freeze that kills most remaining annuals.
There are exceptions. Pansies and violets, for example, are tenacious little flowers that can survive these freezing temperatures. At lower (warmer) elevations in Colorado, you may see them planted in the fall for spring blooming.
Some exceptions to these guidelines!
Remember, Mama Nature makes her own rules.
Here are exceptions that are relevant if you’re gardening in Colorado, Utah or similar western states:
- If you have young or newly planted flowers, they’re more vulnerable to freezing (and dying) than your plants that have well-established roots.
- If we experience a really big temperature swing, your plants are more vulnerable to damage or death from freezes. In the Front Range of Colorado, we can get 50- to 60-degree temperature swings in the fall and spring. In the fall, this is confusing for our plants (especially our trees). They don’t have time to naturally prepare for hibernation mode, known as “dormancy.” And in the spring, they’ve often started to wake up from dormancy when we get these cold temperature swings.
- If you have flower buds that are opening in the spring, I’ve found they’re more vulnerable to getting dinged by freezes than leaves. The freezes likely won’t kill your plants. You just may not get flowers that year.
- If you’re growing flowers in a protected area of your yard (like along a south-facing fence that’s shielded from the wind), your plants may stay warmer when temperatures drop. I often have flowers that freeze in my front yard, while those same flowers are wide awake and happy in the backyard, which is more protected.
- There are some perennials (plants that come back) that are evergreen. They keep the color in their leaves all winter. You may not notice freeze damage on those plants.
The dates for the first fall frost
We have such varied elevations and conditions in Colorado and Utah, it depends on where you live.
The Front Range of Colorado usually gets its first frost in early- to mid-October. But hey, it’s Colorado. We also can get it in early September. (I’m looking at you, 2020.)
And if you live at a higher elevation, your garden may be at risk for frost year-round.
How to find the spring and fall frost dates in your area
In the fall, if you’d like to find the “average first frost date” for your area, I suggest googling:
- Average first fall frost in {your city}
In the spring, you may want to search for the “average last frost date”:
- Average last spring frost in {your city}
Just a final bit of garden lingo… The “average last frost date” means you’ve reached the point when it’s now less than 50 percent likely you’ll get a frost after this date.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks
Black-eyed Susan (officially, Rudbeckia — Rude-bek-ee-uh) is an easy-to-grow flower that can add big color to your western garden, particularly in the late summer.
But often, gardeners plant Black-Eyed Susan… and it doesn’t come back
If this happens to you, you may find yourself thinking: “Well, that article was a load of crap.”
Or worse, you may think: “I guess I just don’t have a green thumb.”
I’m here to tell you this isn’t the case! But there are helpful things to know about Black-Eyed Susan that don’t always get mentioned at the garden center.
So, in this article, you’re going to learn…
How to tell the difference between short-lived vs long-lived Black-Eyed Susans (“biennials” vs “perennials”)
I’m going to use a little garden lingo later in the article (bring on the Latin!), but I promise I’ll explain what it means.
Some types of Black-Eyed Susan are much shorter-lived than others.
So, what are some ways to know what you’re buying?
- Take a good look at the plant
- Look at the botanical name on your plant tag (the Latin jibber-jobber I’ll explain in a sec)
The plants below are Black Eyed Susan.
What do you notice?
In the Plant A photos, do you notice the hairy leaves and stems? When you touch them, they feel fuzzy.
If your Black-Eyed Susan is fuzzy, you likely have a shorter-lived plant
Your fuzzy Black-Eyed Susan plants are likely Rubeckia hirta. They tend to be shorter-lived.
If you’re new to plant names: Rudbeckia describes a group of plants with similar traits. Hirta is like a descriptive adjective. It loosely translates to “hairy” or “rough” in Latin.
To keep things basic, plants with the botanical name, Rudbeckia hirta, include different types of hairy Black-Eyed Susan.
We’ll chat about why plants are hairy at another time. (Does this make your list of topics you never thought you’d talk about today? “Hey, why are plants hairy?”) But for now, don’t let the hair distract you. The hair itself is not why the plant is shorter-lived. It just happens to be a clue you can use to assume you have a shorter-lived plant.
It also helps to look for the botanical name, Rudbeckia hirta, on the plant tag. Unfortunately, growers use ALL kinds of names on plant tags, so this isn’t always a sure thing.
The next question you may be wondering is,
“Okay, so how long do hairy Black-Eyed Susan plants live?”
Generally, Rudbeckia hirta are “biennials” or “short-lived perennials.”
They go through a 2- and sometimes 3-year life cycle, and then they’re done.
Depending on your garden center, you may find young, leafy Rudbeckia hirta in the “perennials” section of the store — the section with plants that come back.
But, Rudbeckia hirta can be sold in the “annuals” section of the store too. Annuals are the flowers that give you colorful flowers for one season, but typically don’t return next year.
(Because it’s never simple, oye!)
When the plant is in the annuals section, the garden center is likely selling it in its second of growth. Your plant is flowering, and it’s near the end of its life cycle.
You can just enjoy varieties like these for the summer and fall, and pull them out at the end of the growing season.
But if you have them in your flowerpots and you WANT to see if they’ll come back, you also can move them to the ground in the early fall to see if they’ll return next year.
Depending on where you live, these plants may survive a winter or spread through their seeds.
Even though Rudbeckia hirta plants tend to be short lived, they CAN make new plants from their seeds, so Black Eyed Susan may keep reappearing in your garden year after year.
Bonus! More plants!
(But reseeding is a topic for another day.)
Okay, back to our comparison photos.
What do you notice about Plant B?
Plant B has smooth stems and leaves.
It’s a different species of Black-Eyed Susan. Specifically, it’s the longer-lived type of Black-Eyed Susan known as Rudbeckia fulgida. Fulgida loosely translates to “shiny” or “glimmering.”
Think of it as a shiny-leafed Black-Eyed Susan.
Below, you’ll find some examples you may find at your garden center.
‘Goldsturm’ a is popular variety. It was the 1999 Perennial Plant of the Year — an award given to plants that are standouts from other varieties. This plant should return for many years.
‘Goldsturm’ is happier with moderate watering, so you may not want to plant it in a dry, hot garden.
Which Black-Eyed Susan is native?
A native plant is one that has existed naturally in an area for hundreds of years. It wasn’t introduced through European settlers.
The answer to this question depends on where you live.
Rudbeckia hirta — hairy Black-Eyed Susan — is native to Colorado, Wyoming, New Mexico, the central United States and eastward. It’s highly attractive to pollinators, and it’s a host plants for many butterflies (meaning they seek those plants out for their young).
So, for my fellow westerners, if you’re interested in native plants and/or you want a pollinator-friendly garden, you may prefer growing Rudbeckia hirta.
Rudbeckia fulgida is native to areas east of the Mississippi River (with some exceptions in the central U.S.).
Bring on the Black-Eyed Susan!
These aren’t the only species of Black-Eyed Susan, but they’re popular ones. And they’re a great place to start for your western garden.
The next time you’re at the garden center, look for Black-Eyed Susan plants. Touch the leaves and stems to see if they feel fuzzy.
If you feel hair, you’ll know what that clue is telling you: You likely have a shorter-lived plant.
Parting thoughts: This article is intended as an overview. It’s good to check the plant tag, or even better, read an online plant description from a grower for the specifics on the plant you’re buying, such as how long it should live, its plant hardiness zones, etc. There can be many nuances among individual plant varieties.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
If I could go back in time and tell myself one thing as a new gardener…
I would say it’s worth finding pretty flower pots. They’re like a good pair of shoes or a nice piece of jewelry. They can really elevate the look of your container garden.
But how do you choose? And should you buy big or small flower pots?
Here are practical questions to consider, so you can choose the best flower pot for YOU.
As you cruise through this article, keep in mind that you don’t have to buy new flowerpots. You can find them used instead. This can be good for your wallet (and Mama Nature too).
#1: Do you want to water less often?
Look for big flower pots.
Big containers tend to dry out more slowly than small pots.
#2: Do you want to have more design options with your flowers?
Look for flower pots with bigger openings (typically, big pots).
You can fit more flowers in a big container with a wide opening, so it offers more design options. You also can plant bigger flowers.
When you see flower pots that are exploding with color (like in mountain villages or outside the mall), chances are you’re looking at larger pots of flowers.
Does this mean you can’t create a beautiful container garden with medium size or small pots?
Not at all!
If you have smaller pots and you’d like to increase your design options, one thing you can do is to group pots together. That can create a really pretty look with interesting textures and heights. It also allows you to include more flowers.
You can see an example below with medium size pots.
#3: Would you like to keep your plant roots happy, which can play a role in beautiful flowers?
Look for a bigger flower pot — one that has room for plant roots to grow.
As your flower plants leaf out and grow above the soil, their roots are growing proportionally below the surface too.
Bigger containers offer more room for plant roots to grow.
And plants that have more roots are usually happier and healthier plants.
Avoid tiny pots or very shallow pots.
They’re going to look super-cute at the garden center, but it’s best to skip them for your outdoor flowers. (Use them for your indoor houseplants instead.)
#4: Do you live someplace with blazing hot summers?
Get a big pot if your flowers are going to get afternoon sunlight.
Big flower pots allow for more soil and moisture, which can do a better job keeping the roots of your plants cool and hydrated.
#5: Do you have limited space on your balcony, patio or front porch?
Look for smaller flower pots—or tall, skinny flower pots.
They work well in small or narrow spaces.
#6: Do you want to be able to move your flower pots in bad weather?
Smaller flower pots can be easier to move.
This is something to think about if you live someplace that gets hail or fluke snowstorms. Because gardening in states like Colorado, Wyoming and Texas is an adventure, y’all!
However, a small pot can still get heavy.
Plus, there are things you can do to make big pots easy to move in hailstorms, like keeping them on “plant caddies.” Plant caddies are plant stands with wheels. Get the scoop on hailstorm protection here.
#7: Are you on a budget? Or, are you interested in reusing rather than buying new?
Then, the size will vary.
Smaller flower pots will require fewer flowers and less potting soil, which can reduce your costs.
And small, decorative pots are usually cheaper than big, decorative pots at garden centers. With that said…
You can find deals on any size container if you get creative.
For example, you don’t have to buy a new container.
- If you’re moving into a home, ask if the previous owner wants to leave any garden supplies — like flower pots. People are often transitioning to different stages of life. (This is how I scored many of my garden tools and a collection of pots!)
- You can look for flower pots at estate sales.
- Neighborhood websites like Facebook Marketplace, Next Door, Craig’s List or OfferUp can be a good source of garden supplies, including flower pots.
In the early spring, places like Costco and HomeGoods (TJ Maxx) often carry flowerpots that won’t break the bank.
And in the fall, flower pots often go on sale at garden centers and boutique-type stores.
#8: Want to make sure your flower pots have the most important feature of all?
Look for flower pots with a hole.
You’ll save yourself extra steps and have happier plants.
Why do they make so many flower pots without holes? It’s weird!
Holes are important.
A flower pot without a hole is like a bathtub without a drain. It can lead to problems.
When water can freely drain from your pots, your plants will have much healthier roots. And healthy roots make a big difference in growing long-lived plants that look GOOD. Cheers to that!
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, In-ground garden
Spring can be one of the best times to plant perennials — the flowers that come back.
“Cool temps are ideal for planting perennials…” wrote David Salman, respected western plantsman of Waterwise Gardening LLC, in 2022. “Perennials thrive in cool weather, putting their energy into growing robust root systems.”
And healthy root systems lead to healthy plants!
When you plant your perennials on mild spring days with cool nights, their roots have a chance to get a head start before summer. They’re better prepared when our roasty summer temps arrive.
So, the question is:
When should you plant perennials in the spring?
I’d love to give you a simple answer—or better yet, a date.
Yep, a specific date would be nice. But Mama Nature makes her own rules, and she can be a fickle gal, especially in Colorado and similar western states. Plus, it depends on where you live and what you’re planting.
Nevertheless, here are helpful guidelines.
You should be able to plant perennials when all of the following occur:
1) Your ground isn’t frozen.
According to the Colorado State University (CSU) Extension, you should theoretically be able to plant hardy perennials when you can work the soil (your dirt). In other words, you can get a shovel in the ground.
If the ground isn’t frozen, your plants’ roots also should have access to water.
In the Front Range of Colorado, this is often April.
2) The ground isn’t too damp.
Digging in wet dirt can compact your soil. (This is a fancy way of saying: You can accidentally smoosh your dirt.)
Compaction is a common issue in clay soil—which many of us have in Colorado and the intermountain west. It can cause problems that last a long time. For example, compacted soil can make it tough for water and air to get to your plants’ roots.
If you’ve been getting snow or rain, hold off on digging in the dirt. Let your soil dry for a bit.
3) Your perennials have been actively growing outside for a while.
This is important. Let’s dig into why.
Perennials that have been growing outside are tougher. They’re better equipped to handle the intense sunlight, drying winds and yo-yo temperature swings that we can get in Colorado and similar states.
In contrast, perennials that have been growing inside are tender. They’ve had warm, comfy conditions—like their own spa. They aren’t used to outdoor conditions yet.
Greenhouse plants are more vulnerable to sunburn outside (yep, that’s a thing), as well as frost and freeze damage. They can become stunted, weak or die. These flowers “are best planted after the danger of frost has passed in the spring,” says the CSU Extension.
When you bring home perennials that have been growing indoors, it’s also a good idea to toughen them up before you plant them outdoors. This is known as “acclimating” or “hardening off” your flowers. (Here’s how to harden off flower plants.)
On a related note, if most of the plants in your garden are still dormant (winter hibernation mode) and you see leafy perennials at the store, it’s too early to buy those plants… unless they’re going straight into a greenhouse at your house. Those leafy, greenhouse perennials will not do well in our spring freezes in Colorado.
4) Your temperatures are mild rather than hot.
Moving your flowers from their nursery pots to the ground can be stressful for your plants. And hot temperatures can add to your plants’ stress.
Look for days with mild temperatures to plant your perennials. Avoid planting on summer-like days in the spring, if possible. Cloudy days can be excellent days to plant.
Here’s my approach to planting perennials in the spring in Colorado.
I live in the Front Range of Colorado.
Typically, I’ll start moving and dividing perennials that are already planted in my garden in early April, depending on the weather. The ground usually isn’t frozen and these plants have been growing in my garden, so I know they’re used to the conditions.
If we’ve been getting a lot of snow or rain, I’ll hold off on moving plants to avoid planting in wet soil. I don’t want to compact my soil (smoosh my dirt).
Depending on the weather, I’ll bring home new perennials starting in late April. I harden off the perennials I get from mail-order websites and garden centers before I plant them. Tip: If you see plants outside at a store and you don’t know if they just arrived from a greenhouse or not, I would err on the side of hardening your plants.
We can get yo-yo temperature swings in Colorado in the spring, from summer-like days, to freezing cold nights. So, I keep my eyes on the forecast. If the forecast says temps could drop into the upper 20s (or below) or we could get snow (because, yay, it’s Colorado), I’ll typically wait to plant them. I protect my leafy, newly-purchased perennials from freezes.
Gardening is both science and intuition.
I have a gardening friend who shared an observation I adore:
Gardening is both science and intuition. What works for one gardener may not work for the next.
If you want to know when you should plant perennials in the spring in Colorado (or a similar state), I hope these guidelines help you hone in on what works well for your western garden.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, Gardening Tips and Tricks
So, you walk into your local western garden center…
And you see row after row of flowers. You may find yourself thinking one of two things:
- “Ahhhh, I’m in my happy place.” You feel like a kid in a candy store.
Or …
- “HOLY. CRAP.” There are sooooo many choices. You suddenly feel a strong urge to breathe deeply into a brown paper bag.
Both are natural reactions!
Here are 5 tips to help you navigate your local garden center and make awesome flower choices.
Tip #1: Western garden centers may not sell the flowers you recognize from other parts of the country or from magazine photos
And that’s actually a good thing.
Here’s why.
Colorado and similar western states are tough on plants.
Really tough.
It’s dry here. Windy. Our high-altitude sun is more intense on our plants. Our soil lacks nutrients. We get hail and 60-degree temperature swings.
Down at our lower elevations (3500-6000 feet), our summers can get H-O-T with very little rainfall.
And up at our higher elevations — like in our mountain valleys — we can get frost in the summer.
(Aren’t you glad you’re becoming a gardener here? )
The point is, we need hardy-plants that can handle these types of conditions.
Typically, the pin-worthy flowers from Southern Living magazine and other lifestyle magazines prefer a lot of moisture, different soil, a more temperate climate, etc.
You’ll be much more successful and have to replace fewer plants in states like Colorado and Utah if you’re planting flowers that do well in our crazy, western conditions.
So, get ready to discover some new types of flowers as you browse the aisles!
Tip #2: Flowers are often arranged together based on whether they grow for one season or return every year
In other words, there is a method to the colorful madness.
You want big, showy color all summer, particularly in your flowerpots?
You’re probably looking for annuals. Annuals give you a lot of color for one growing season, but they don’t come back the next.
You want pretty flowers in the ground that come back year after year?
You’re looking for perennials. Perennials return every year, but they typically bloom for a shorter window of time — often, only a few weeks.
The good news is your garden center likely has organized its annuals together and its perennials together.
The annual section usually has a lot of flowers together with bright, showy color.
If you aren’t sure which section is which, please ask. People are happy to help.
In addition, in the perennial section, plants that love sunshine are often separated from plants that prefer shade …
Though, not always. (I’m looking at you home improvement stores.)
In outdoor garden centers, the shade-loving plants will likely have a screen or a cover over them. This is always a helpful clue that they prefer less sunlight.
Tip #3: Perennials bloom at different times of the summer, so it’s helpful to return to the garden center every 2-4 weeks to see what’s blooming
When I planted my first garden in Colorado, I was so excited to buy flowers.
I went to the garden center in early June, and I bought a variety of colorful perennials (the flower plants that come back year after year).
Over the next few years, my garden looked GOOD … in May and June.
But by the time July arrived, everything would stop blooming.
I had very little color for the rest of the summer.
What happened?
Perennials bloom at different times during the summer — usually for 2 to 3 weeks at a time.
I bought the perennials that looked pretty at the garden center in the early summer. They were the flower plants that bloom in May and June.
I didn’t realize that I needed to pace myself.
If you’d like color in your garden across the w-h-o-l-e summer, it’s helpful to return to the garden center to see what blooms during different months.
Your garden center will likely be getting new plants in.
Plus, plants you didn’t notice before may be blooming now.
Don’t have time to make multiple trips to the garden center to look at perennials?
In that case, be sure to look at the plant tags (tucked in each pot) when you buy your flowers.
The plant tags should tell you when your perennial will bloom.
Look for perennials that bloom at different times of the summer. That means you may need to look for plants that aren’t flowering at the time you’re at the garden center.
If you live at a high elevation in a western state like Colorado, you’ll have a shorter growing season. You may want skip the “early fall” bloomers. Your growing season may not be long enough for those flowers to bloom. You also may have more summer options if you start flowers from seed.
Tip #4: The size of the flower plant in the store isn’t its final size
Perennials take up to 3 years to reach their full size.
So, when you see a pretty perennial at the garden center and it’s flowering and you can totally picture the perfect spot for it in your garden …
Pump the brakes.
Read the plant tag (tucked in the pot) to find out how big the plant will grow and how much space it needs.
When you read the tag, you may find yourself thinking:
“This adorable little plant needs 24 inches in width and is going to be 3 feet tall? Nah!”
Yep.
It just may take a few years to get there.
Here’s what this means:
Your garden may not look “full” in the first year or two, but this is totally normal.
You can always fill in with flowerpots of annuals.
Putting each plant in the right place for its needs will help you keep your plants from competing for water, nutrients and sunlight.
Translation: You’ll have happier, healthier plants and less work for the long term.
By the way, almost every gardener has ignored a plant tag and had to move — or remove — a plant when it’s gotten too big (myself included).
So, if you’ve done this, you’re in good company!
There’s nothing like planting a perennial in the front of your garden, only to discover that your plant has turned into the tall kid in the school class picture — and you have it standing in the front row.
And if you like having the tall kid in the front row, great!
Nature is wild and unruly, and it can be part of the fun of gardening too.
Just make sure your tall kid isn’t crowding out your other plants (for example, blocking their sunlight or water).
The other thing to keep an eye on is whether your tall kid’s roots may be growing into other plants and taking their nutrients.
Tip #5: A big flower plant growing in a small container can be a problem, so look for containers that are proportional to the plant
As plants grow bigger above the soil, their roots are elongating below the soil.
So, when you see a big plant growing in a small pot — for an amazingly low price, no less — you may not be getting the deal you think you’re getting.
Why?
Because when plant roots have nowhere to go, they start circling around the inside of the container, growing tighter and tighter.
The plant’s roots will begin to strangle and kill the plant.
This is known as: “root girdling.”
Sometimes, there are things you can do to loosen up the roots when you get your plant home, but these steps take extra work and you can end up damaging the roots.
Your flower plant may not recover.
What’s another sign that the roots are too big for the container?
You may notice a lot of roots growing out of the bottom of the pot.
Poor lil’ dudes are trying to escape!
Root girdling is a bigger issue in perennials (and shrubs and trees), than in annuals. After all, your annuals are only going to last for one season.
Nonetheless, be wary of plants that have outgrown the size of their containers.
You may be buying a problem.
Being observant can help you set yourself (and your plants) up for more success in your garden. And cheers to that!
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
Wondering how to get started with flowerpot gardening?
Pop in your ear buds, find a comfy spot and listen to this 30-minute episode of the @liveblissedout podcast!
I was honored to be a guest and chat about flowerpot gardening in Colorado, Utah and the West. Click the blue play button below to listen.
In this flower gardening podcast, you’ll discover:
- How to feel more confident growing flowers — even if you’ve struggled or you’ve never grown a flower before
- What to think about when choosing flowers for pots, so your flowers live longer
- How to INSTANTLY make your flowerpots prettier
- How to know how many flowers to buy, so you don’t waste money
- Where to buy flowers if you like unique flower blooms (beyond the home improvement stores)
- And more!
The Live Blissed Out podcast is an educational variety show focusing on how you can achieve happiness through awareness and taking action. I loved being a guest.
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks
What the heck is turning your plants into lace-y skeletons?
If it’s late June, July or August in the Front Range of Colorado, Japanese beetles may be to blame.
“What do Japanese beetles look like?” you may be wondering.
Japanese beetles are metallic green insects with dark orange wings, making their backs look metallic orange. They have white spots along their sides.
And they will eat their way through your yard with reckless abandon.
Japanese beetles are spreading along the Front Range of Colorado, including the metro Denver area, parts of Pueblo, Boulder and Fort Collins.
So, what can you do about Japanese beetles?
It’s 100% normal to go out and buy the first products you see to get rid of Japanese beetles.
But, while these products may be well intentioned, many have not proven to be effective in reducing damage on your plants. You may be throwing away good money.
And some products are very toxic to the good insects in your garden, like bees. You may be unintentionally nuking your own garden.
In this video about Japanese beetles, you’ll get:
- A basic introduction to Japanese beetles, so you know what to expect
- 2 primary ways to think about Japanese beetle control, so you use your time well
- A look at some of the plants they REALLY like
- Myths about ways to get rid of Japanese beetles, so you don’t waste your money on products that don’t work
- A more detailed resource, if you want it, that includes Japanese beetle control products on the market
Prefer to read?
Scroll down for the transcript.
I’ve also included helpful resources at the end of this article, including different products you can use to control the beetles.
Transcript of Japanese beetle video:
Japanese beetles in Colorado.
They’re working their way up and down the Front Range.
These beetles can be a royal pain in the bootie for your flowerpots, your garden, your trees and even your lawn.
So, in this video, you’re going to find out what you should know about Japanese beetles in Colorado and how to control them.
[music]
Hi, I’m Ann with Go West Gardener.
Inspiring new western gardeners to find their green thumbs with flowers.
Real quick, in addition to my 15 years of hands-on experience with gardening in Colorado, I’ve completed more than 120 hours of formal training in western gardening, and I continue to take courses and workshops, so I can help you with topics like the one today: Japanese beetles in Colorado.
Unfortunately, Japanese beetles are here to stay along the Front Range. So, it’s helpful to plan ahead and know what your options are.
In this video, I want to give you:
- A basic introduction to Japanese beetles because there’s A LOT of misinformation out there.
- I’m going to share 2 primary ways to think about Japanese beetle control.
- I’m going to debunk some myths about ways to get rid of Japanese beetles. (And yes, you will see your neighbors doing these things.)
- And I’m going to point you to a more detailed resource, if you want it.
Let’s jump in.
Japanese beetles go through a one-year life cycle, but if you have a yard you care about, the real “joy” with beetles comes in the second half of the summer in Colorado.
Around the very end of June or early in July, the adult beetles will emerge from your lawn and start showing up on your plants.
And now they’re ready to eat their way through your garden in July, August and sometimes early September.
Japanese beetles have two priorities:
- To eat and
- To reproduce
If you had them last year, you know they will chew their way through your plants, creating holes in your plants and turning them into lacey skeletons.
Depending on the plant, they may eat the flower petals, they may eat the leaves, or they may eat both.
And between their dinner parties on your plants, the females will fly down to your lawn, dig a few inches down to lay eggs, and then come back up and start the process all over again.
So now, you don’t just have the adult beetles to think about, you have their babies too.
As the eggs hatch, the larvae — which are these little white grubs — will feed on the roots of the grass in your lawn.
And they’re especially fond of lawns that we have along the Front Range of Colorado, like Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass lawns.
So, picture this…
You’ve got the adult beetles chewing on your plants above ground, and you’ve got their babies — these little white grubs — chewing on the roots of your lawn.
Not a good time!
As temperatures drop, the grubs will dig deeper into your soil for the winter and then come up closer to the surface again in the spring before they emerge as adult beetles in late June and early July.
So, if we’re going to talk about how to control Japanese beetles in Colorado, it helps to think of them as affecting your yard in two ways:
- You’ve got the adults eating your plants, and
- You’ve got the grubs chewing on the roots of your lawn
From a control and treatment perspective, you can deal with the adults, and you can deal with the grubs.
Let’s talk about how to control the adults that are eating your plants.
One of the biggest things you can do to PREVENT damage is avoid planting flowers and trees that Japanese beetles love in Colorado.
These are plants like roses, Virginia creeper (it’s a vine you’ll see growing along fences), linden trees and some types of fruit trees.
I had a plum tree that the beetles would just fall out of and land in your hair, like the tree was dripping with insects.
It was so gross.
And that’s just the start of what they like to eat.
Every year I feel like I find them on something new.
But let’s say you absolutely love a plant, like roses, and you want to plant them.
Then just know that your roses will look great early in the summer, the beetles will try to chew them up in the middle of the summer, and then, it’s possible your roses may give you flowers again in the early fall after the adult beetles have died.
Now, you may be thinking, so prevention is great, Ann, but I have beetles NOW.
“What can I do about them?”
“How do I get rid of them?”
“Can’t I just spray them?”
Yes, there are insecticides and some bio-controls you can use to kill Japanese beetles.
But do your research because many of these also have a negative effect on bees and other pollinators — the really good insects in your garden that we need.
Later in this video, I’m going to share a resource where you can find a list of product options for you on what you can apply to your plants, including how toxic they are.
If you DO have beetles and you DON’T want to use poisons, one of the most effective things you can do is to put on a pair of garden gloves, put together a container of soapy water, and then knock or pick and drop the beetles into the soapy water to drown them.
(This works with small amounts of beetles.)
Dig through your recycling bin to find a container you can use.
I will often save an empty, plastic butter container that I fill up with soapy water.
I plop the beetles in and then put the top on until I know they’re dead.
Once the beetles are dead, you can throw them out in your trash, you can compost them, you can even bury them — they won’t cause any harm at that point.
When the beetles are chewing on your plants, your plants are releasing a compound that’s like a magnet to more beetles.
For me, this always makes me think of the local ice cream truck.
On summer nights, it comes cruising through our neighborhood, playing that distinctive musical jingle, and the kids come running to it.
So, your plants are basically doing the same thing as that ice cream truck playing that song, and the beetles don’t want to miss it.
Here’s what this means.
It’s better to get the beetles early before you have a feeding frenzy on your hands.
If your plants haven’t been damaged too much yet, it’s like the ice cream song is really quiet. But if you wait until your plants have a lot of damage — the music will be blaring and more beetles will come.
Beetles are groggiest at cooler times of the day and when it’s darker, like in the evening or early in the morning, so those are the best times to try to pick them off your plants.
If you try catching them during the day when it’s warm, they’ll quickly fly away. I have to say, this doesn’t stop me from trying to catch them, but I often miss many of them.
Okay, so that’s one option.
You can pick off the beetles by hand.
But let’s say you have A LOT of beetles, like on your roses or on your vines.
I recently took a Colorado gardening course where the speaker was talking about using a shop vac to vacuum up the beetles from the vine that the beetles were eating.
I have not tried this, but it sounds interesting if you have too many beetles to pick off.
And you know what I’m talking about when you have 5 beetles the first day, and then 20 the next day, and then 172 the next day.
The beetle party can get out of control quickly!
You’ll still need to kill the beetles when they end up in your shop vac, and you’ll need to find a way to keep them from clogging up your filter.
But I’m passing this idea long in case it inspires you.
If you see beetles on the ground, you can squish them.
A few years ago, there was some question about whether this would attract more beetles to your home, but that’s no longer considered to be an issue.
What the beetles are attracted to is your plants because they’re playing that ice cream truck song.
If you happen to have chickens, you can let your feathered friends help you with pest control.
And the last thing I’m going to mention is that one of our state universities and one of our state agencies are running tests on ways to control the beetles, including releasing other insects that will attack the beetles.
So, fingers crossed we’ll have more options in the future.
Okay, so let’s pause for a moment and talk about one thing that has NOT proven to be as effective for protecting your plants.
You may see your neighbors hanging up bags to catch the beetles — Japanese beetle traps.
And I get it, it’s an appealing solution.
Here’s the thing.
These bags will definitely catch beetles, and they’re great if you’re part of research project on how many beetles are present in your area.
However, they have not shown to lower damage to the plants in your yard.
In fact, you could actually end up increasing the damage.
The reason is these bags are a magnet for beetles to your yard, and the bags don’t catch every beetle.
So you’re basically ringing a dinner bell for the beetles to come home.
Save your money and skip the bag.
Also, you may go on the Internet and read about remedies with different types of oils, including neem oil and garlic.
My understanding is, in the trials that have been done with Japanese beetles in Colorado, these remedies have not shown to be effective.
Okay, so we’ve talked about the big controls you can use for the beetles eating your plants.
But remember, you’ve got the adult beetles on your plants, and their babies are eating your lawn.
Let’s change gears and talk about how you can protect your lawn.
But first, I want to make sure I’m clear.
When you are protecting your lawn, you are NOT going to prevent Japanese beetles from showing up on your plants.
The beetles can fly, and you will still end up with beetles from all your neighbors’ lawns.
The point of treating your lawn is to keep your grass alive.
What happens is the grubs eat the roots of your grass, particularly in August and September, so your grass has trouble absorbing the water it needs to stay alive.
And here in Colorado, this is the time of the year when our grass is already kind of stressed out from the heat, right?
You also may end up with critters, like raccoons, digging holes in your grass trying to get the grubs.
So, here are some options for protecting your lawn.
If you are moving into a new home and you have a choice of grass, the beetles are less crazy about some “warm season” grasses, like Bermuda, Blue Grama and Dog Tuff grass.
So, you may want to do some research on what it’s like to have a warm season grass lawn.
Or, you may want to skip a grass lawn all together.
If you have a traditional lawn, like Kentucky bluegrass, you can keep your grass healthier starting in the spring.
This makes it more resistant to beetle damage.
This means mowing your grass at a longer length (not short like a putting green).
Longer grass means you have longer roots. Shorter grass means shorter roots, and shorter roots are vulnerable.
It helps to fertilize your lawn, so it gets the nutrients it needs.
It helps to “aerate” your lawn — that’s when the dirt plugs are taken out of your grass — so air and water can get down to the roots.
And it helps to give your lawn a deep, soaking water and then no water for the next few days, rather than watering for a short amount of time every day.
All of these steps will keep your roots happier.
And the healthier your grass is going into July, August and September when those grubs are chomping away, the more your lawn will be able to handle the damage from grubs.
Here’s another thing.
Female beetles like damp yards to lay their eggs, so if your lawn is healthy and you can minimize your watering in July and August, you will deter the beetles from laying their eggs in your yard.
This also helps because the beetle eggs and those baby grubs will often die if they dry out.
In case you’re wondering, there ARE some insecticides and bio-controls you can put down.
I will share a resource with you shortly, so you can see your options.
But again, do your research because some have minimal effects on bees, pets and humans, and others are more toxic.
Oh, and there is one treatment worth mentioning that was popular for a few years, but it hasn’t proven to be all that successful in killing the grubs.
It’s called milky spore — it’s a biological control you apply to your lawn.
It’s shown to have a really LOW effective rate for controlling Japanese beetles, so again, you may want to save your money and skip that one.
And if you want to learn more about this, you can read about it in the helpful resource I’ve promised you.
The Colorado State University Extension has created an up-to-date fact sheet on Japanese beetles.
[Note: You’ll find more resources below too.]
The fact sheet is based on research about Japanese beetles, and it includes a list of specific products to help control the beetles.
I will share upfront, the fact sheet can get a little technical, but it’s still helpful.
So, if you’re interested, check it out.
And if you’d love to feel more confident with flower gardening in Colorado, please click subscribe below [on YouTube].
Go get those beetles, and I’ll see you next time.
[music]
More Japanese Beetle resources to help you
- Japanese beetle plant damage lists. The Douglas County Extension in Colorado has crowdsourced a list of plants that beetle like and dislike (including annual flowers, perennials, shrubs, trees and even veggies).
- Fact sheet on Japanese beetles from the Colorado State University (CSU) Extension. It includes options for products to use to control the beetles.
- Products to control and kill Japanese beetles (an article from Tagawa Garden Center). It includes photos of products you can buy to control the adult beetles and the grubs. These products are in line with the CSU Extension fact sheet.
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
Your spring flowers look as happy as kids on the first day of vacation… and then, you see the weather forecast: SNOW.
Ugh.
The good news is…
Spring flowering bulbs — like tulips and daffodils (pictured below) — are surprisingly resilient. Snow can be a good insulator for plants. And yes, I know we need the water.
So, if you’re wondering, “Will snow kill spring flowers, like tulips?”, the good news is it’s extremely unlikely.
(Phew, right?)
The bad news is…
Heavy spring snows can make a mess of tulips and daffodils that have started flowering.
Depending on how much snow you get, it can weigh down, smoosh or break your flowers, ending your pretty blooms for this year.
Temperatures can be an issue too
Cold temperatures (like a hard freeze) can ruin the blooms on some spring flowers, including the buds that haven’t quite opened yet.
I want my flower blooms to last as long as they can
That’s why I prefer to protect some of my spring flowers that are blooming — or are just about to bloom.
When my tulips or daffodils are blooming and there’s more than a dusting of snow in the forecast, I choose to cover them with tall buckets, empty flowerpots, frost tents, etc.
I do this so they don’t get crushed by the snow. That way, I still have flower blooms when the snow is over.
I keep my eye on the low temperatures too
Some spring flowers are more sensitive than others to freezing temperatures.
In my garden, allium and tulips tend to be the most sensitive. You can see an example of allium below.
I’ve had enough flower buds (the blooms that haven’t opened yet) get dinged by hard freezes in the spring that I like to protect them.
When I see nighttime temperatures dipping and dancing into the mid-20s (or below) in the forecast, I’ll cover my allium and tulips — focusing on the ones that are blooming and the ones that have flower buds.
I’ve never gotten a freeze or hard frost that’s killed my spring plants. Rather, I just don’t get flower blooms that year. I have to wait until next year.
So, when I’m covering my spring flowers, I’m trying to protect that season’s blooms.
Do you have to cover your spring flowers when snow is coming?
Nope! Depending on your snowfall and how naturally protected your flowers are, they may be just fine. It’s all a matter of how proactive you want to be.
I don’t worry about my tulips when they’re just leaves
If my tulips are coming up and they only have leaves (but no buds or blooms yet), I don’t cover them.
Personally, I also don’t worry about the early spring bloomers, like crocuses below. Those lil’ dudes are tough!
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics
When you buy a flower plant…
You may notice a strange phrase on the plant tag that says: “Hardiness zones” or “Zones.”
If you’re wondering, “What is a plant hardiness zone? What does that mean?”, you’re in the right place.
At its most basic, a plant hardiness zone tells you whether a plant is likely to survive the winter temperatures in your area.
It’s a helpful concept to understand because it can play a role in whether your plants will come back or not.
I like to think of a hardiness zone like a jean size
Think, for a moment, about your favorite pair of jeans.
When you put them on, they fit you like a glove. They feel good. They make you look good. They make your butt look good.
YOU. LOVE. THEM.
Sure, you could wear a size or two bigger, but they just wouldn’t feel right.
And yes, it’s possible you may be able to s-q-u-e-e-z-e into jeans one size smaller — with the help of some serious Spanx or extra reps at the gym. But your jeans REALLY wouldn’t feel right. You wouldn’t last very long in them.
Nope, there’s a sweet spot.
Your favorite jeans are the right size for you.
Your garden is like your beloved pair of denims: It has a sweet spot too
It’s “size” is known as its hardiness zone.
And that zone number tells you which plants should be the right fit for surviving winter temperatures and returning in your garden next year.
You can try planting flowers that don’t fit your garden’s plant hardiness zone, but they’re less likely to return.
Luckily, you don’t have to become a meteorologist to figure out your zone
The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) created a simple way to help you choose plants for your garden.
It’s called the “USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.”
Basically, they’ve assigned a zone to where you live. Your zone is based on the coldest temperatures that are expected in your area.
As long as you choose plants that match your zone, your plants should be strong enough to survive winter temperatures in your area.
The opportune word here is “should.” Hardiness zones are based on the expected coldest temperatures in your area. However, Mama Nature has been known to push the boundaries of coldest temps — like the arctic blast that swept much of the U.S. in February 2021. Plus, there are other factors that can come into play on whether your plants survive winter in the West. The key takeaway? While plant hardiness zones are helpful, they aren’t perfect.
Let’s look at the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map
You may notice that the coastlines (in oranges and yellows) tend to have warmer winters than the upper-central portion of the United States (in greens, blues and purples).
That’s because the oceans help moderate winter temperatures.
In the Rocky Mountain region of the country, we have a WIDE range of plant hardiness zones. It depends on where you live.
For example, let’s say you live in the Front Range of Colorado. Most areas along the Front Range are in Zone 5 and 6. The lowest extreme temperatures you’re expected to get are -10 degrees to -20 degrees Fahrenheit below zero.
You can find your plant hardiness zone on the USDA website
Okay, you’ve looked up your zone number…
Now what the heck are you supposed to do with it?
When you go to buy flowers, look for the zones on the plant tags (tucked in the containers).
If you want your plants to come back next year, pick flowers that match YOUR zone number.
For example, let’s say you live in Zone 5
You see this red fountain grass (below) at the store, and you’d love to plant it in your garden. The plant tag says it’s “annual except in zones 9-11.”
This plant tag is telling you that this grass will likely only survive winter temperatures in Zones 9-11.
Because you are in Zone 5, this plant will look great in your garden for one summer, but it should NOT come back next year. It isn’t “cold hardy” where you live.
Let’s look at another example
You like the look of the plant below called Red Birds in a Tree. (By the way, this is one of my favorite plants in my garden. My neighbors always ask about it, and the hummingbirds LOVE it!)
The plant tag for this flower says, “Zones 3-9.” Do you see the zones below?
In our example, your garden is in Zone 5, so this plant SHOULD return next year. It should come back in any of the Zones 3-9.
Use your zone to be a smarter plant shopper
When you buy plants that you want to return every year:
- Don’t assume that the plants at the store are right for where you live.
- Check the plant tags to make sure their plant hardiness zones match yours.
- If you’re buying plants online, look for each plant’s hardiness zone in the online description of the plant.
If you pick a plant that doesn’t match your zone, you may find yourself a replacing dead plant next year!
While your plant hardiness zone is helpful, it’s only ONE part of choosing the right flowers for your western garden
Remember that your plant hardiness zone is like your jean size.
When you’re buying jeans, the size is important, yes.
But you probably care about other things too — like the the length, fit and color.
If you’re 5’3′, tall jeans are going to create unnecessary work for you.
And we do not want unnecessary work!
In your western garden, you also want to know:
- How much water your plants need (can they tolerate semi-arid conditions and drought?)
- How well your plants can handle intense sunlight (at elevation, we’re closer to the sun, so our sunlight is tougher on plants)
- Your plants’ tolerance to things like hail and wind
- What kind of soil the plants like
- And more
Here’s an example of what can happen if you only think about your plant hardiness zone.
Again, let’s say you live in Zone 5.
If you ONLY consider your plant hardiness zone when choosing flowers, you may find yourself planting the same flowers that thrive in humid, rainy, coastal Maine.
Not the best idea for your semi-arid garden in Colorado or Utah, right?
It’s helpful to choose flower plants that fit your zone, but know that your zone is only one part of finding the best flowers for your western garden.
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