by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks
What the heck is turning your plants into lace-y skeletons?
If it’s late June, July or August in the Front Range of Colorado, Japanese beetles may be to blame.
“What do Japanese beetles look like?” you may be wondering.
Japanese beetles are metallic green insects with dark orange wings, making their backs look metallic orange. They have white spots along their sides.
And they will eat their way through your yard with reckless abandon.

Japanese beetles are spreading along the Front Range of Colorado, including the metro Denver area, parts of Pueblo, Boulder and Fort Collins.
So, what can you do about Japanese beetles?
It’s 100% normal to go out and buy the first products you see to get rid of Japanese beetles.
But, while these products may be well intentioned, many have not proven to be effective in reducing damage on your plants. You may be throwing away good money.
And some products are very toxic to the good insects in your garden, like bees. You may be unintentionally nuking your own garden.

In this video about Japanese beetles, you’ll get:
- A basic introduction to Japanese beetles, so you know what to expect
- 2 primary ways to think about Japanese beetle control, so you use your time well
- A look at some of the plants they REALLY like
- Myths about ways to get rid of Japanese beetles, so you don’t waste your money on products that don’t work
- A more detailed resource, if you want it, that includes Japanese beetle control products on the market
Prefer to read?
Scroll down for the transcript.
I’ve also included helpful resources at the end of this article, including different products you can use to control the beetles.
Transcript of Japanese beetle video:
Japanese beetles in Colorado.
They’re working their way up and down the Front Range.
These beetles can be a royal pain in the bootie for your flowerpots, your garden, your trees and even your lawn.
So, in this video, you’re going to find out what you should know about Japanese beetles in Colorado and how to control them.
[music]
Hi, I’m Ann with Go West Gardener.
Inspiring new western gardeners to find their green thumbs with flowers.
Real quick, in addition to my 15 years of hands-on experience with gardening in Colorado, I’ve completed more than 120 hours of formal training in western gardening, and I continue to take courses and workshops, so I can help you with topics like the one today: Japanese beetles in Colorado.
Unfortunately, Japanese beetles are here to stay along the Front Range. So, it’s helpful to plan ahead and know what your options are.
In this video, I want to give you:
- A basic introduction to Japanese beetles because there’s A LOT of misinformation out there.
- I’m going to share 2 primary ways to think about Japanese beetle control.
- I’m going to debunk some myths about ways to get rid of Japanese beetles. (And yes, you will see your neighbors doing these things.)
- And I’m going to point you to a more detailed resource, if you want it.
Let’s jump in.
Japanese beetles go through a one-year life cycle, but if you have a yard you care about, the real “joy” with beetles comes in the second half of the summer in Colorado.
Around the very end of June or early in July, the adult beetles will emerge from your lawn and start showing up on your plants.
And now they’re ready to eat their way through your garden in July, August and sometimes early September.
Japanese beetles have two priorities:
- To eat and
- To reproduce
If you had them last year, you know they will chew their way through your plants, creating holes in your plants and turning them into lacey skeletons.
Depending on the plant, they may eat the flower petals, they may eat the leaves, or they may eat both.
And between their dinner parties on your plants, the females will fly down to your lawn, dig a few inches down to lay eggs, and then come back up and start the process all over again.
So now, you don’t just have the adult beetles to think about, you have their babies too.
As the eggs hatch, the larvae — which are these little white grubs — will feed on the roots of the grass in your lawn.
And they’re especially fond of lawns that we have along the Front Range of Colorado, like Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass lawns.
So, picture this…
You’ve got the adult beetles chewing on your plants above ground, and you’ve got their babies — these little white grubs — chewing on the roots of your lawn.
Not a good time!
As temperatures drop, the grubs will dig deeper into your soil for the winter and then come up closer to the surface again in the spring before they emerge as adult beetles in late June and early July.
So, if we’re going to talk about how to control Japanese beetles in Colorado, it helps to think of them as affecting your yard in two ways:
- You’ve got the adults eating your plants, and
- You’ve got the grubs chewing on the roots of your lawn
From a control and treatment perspective, you can deal with the adults, and you can deal with the grubs.
Let’s talk about how to control the adults that are eating your plants.
One of the biggest things you can do to PREVENT damage is avoid planting flowers and trees that Japanese beetles love in Colorado.
These are plants like roses, Virginia creeper (it’s a vine you’ll see growing along fences), linden trees and some types of fruit trees.
I had a plum tree that the beetles would just fall out of and land in your hair, like the tree was dripping with insects.
It was so gross.
And that’s just the start of what they like to eat.
Every year I feel like I find them on something new.
But let’s say you absolutely love a plant, like roses, and you want to plant them.
Then just know that your roses will look great early in the summer, the beetles will try to chew them up in the middle of the summer, and then, it’s possible your roses may give you flowers again in the early fall after the adult beetles have died.
Now, you may be thinking, so prevention is great, Ann, but I have beetles NOW.
“What can I do about them?”
“How do I get rid of them?”
“Can’t I just spray them?”
Yes, there are insecticides and some bio-controls you can use to kill Japanese beetles.
But do your research because many of these also have a negative effect on bees and other pollinators — the really good insects in your garden that we need.
Later in this video, I’m going to share a resource where you can find a list of product options for you on what you can apply to your plants, including how toxic they are.
If you DO have beetles and you DON’T want to use poisons, one of the most effective things you can do is to put on a pair of garden gloves, put together a container of soapy water, and then knock or pick and drop the beetles into the soapy water to drown them.
(This works with small amounts of beetles.)
Dig through your recycling bin to find a container you can use.
I will often save an empty, plastic butter container that I fill up with soapy water.
I plop the beetles in and then put the top on until I know they’re dead.
Once the beetles are dead, you can throw them out in your trash, you can compost them, you can even bury them — they won’t cause any harm at that point.
When the beetles are chewing on your plants, your plants are releasing a compound that’s like a magnet to more beetles.
For me, this always makes me think of the local ice cream truck.
On summer nights, it comes cruising through our neighborhood, playing that distinctive musical jingle, and the kids come running to it.
So, your plants are basically doing the same thing as that ice cream truck playing that song, and the beetles don’t want to miss it.
Here’s what this means.
It’s better to get the beetles early before you have a feeding frenzy on your hands.
If your plants haven’t been damaged too much yet, it’s like the ice cream song is really quiet. But if you wait until your plants have a lot of damage — the music will be blaring and more beetles will come.
Beetles are groggiest at cooler times of the day and when it’s darker, like in the evening or early in the morning, so those are the best times to try to pick them off your plants.
If you try catching them during the day when it’s warm, they’ll quickly fly away. I have to say, this doesn’t stop me from trying to catch them, but I often miss many of them.
Okay, so that’s one option.
You can pick off the beetles by hand.
But let’s say you have A LOT of beetles, like on your roses or on your vines.
I recently took a Colorado gardening course where the speaker was talking about using a shop vac to vacuum up the beetles from the vine that the beetles were eating.
I have not tried this, but it sounds interesting if you have too many beetles to pick off.
And you know what I’m talking about when you have 5 beetles the first day, and then 20 the next day, and then 172 the next day.
The beetle party can get out of control quickly!
You’ll still need to kill the beetles when they end up in your shop vac, and you’ll need to find a way to keep them from clogging up your filter.
But I’m passing this idea long in case it inspires you.
If you see beetles on the ground, you can squish them.
A few years ago, there was some question about whether this would attract more beetles to your home, but that’s no longer considered to be an issue.
What the beetles are attracted to is your plants because they’re playing that ice cream truck song.
If you happen to have chickens, you can let your feathered friends help you with pest control.
And the last thing I’m going to mention is that one of our state universities and one of our state agencies are running tests on ways to control the beetles, including releasing other insects that will attack the beetles.
So, fingers crossed we’ll have more options in the future.
Okay, so let’s pause for a moment and talk about one thing that has NOT proven to be as effective for protecting your plants.
You may see your neighbors hanging up bags to catch the beetles — Japanese beetle traps.
And I get it, it’s an appealing solution.
Here’s the thing.
These bags will definitely catch beetles, and they’re great if you’re part of research project on how many beetles are present in your area.
However, they have not shown to lower damage to the plants in your yard.
In fact, you could actually end up increasing the damage.
The reason is these bags are a magnet for beetles to your yard, and the bags don’t catch every beetle.
So you’re basically ringing a dinner bell for the beetles to come home.
Save your money and skip the bag.
Also, you may go on the Internet and read about remedies with different types of oils, including neem oil and garlic.
My understanding is, in the trials that have been done with Japanese beetles in Colorado, these remedies have not shown to be effective.
Okay, so we’ve talked about the big controls you can use for the beetles eating your plants.
But remember, you’ve got the adult beetles on your plants, and their babies are eating your lawn.
Let’s change gears and talk about how you can protect your lawn.
But first, I want to make sure I’m clear.
When you are protecting your lawn, you are NOT going to prevent Japanese beetles from showing up on your plants.
The beetles can fly, and you will still end up with beetles from all your neighbors’ lawns.
The point of treating your lawn is to keep your grass alive.
What happens is the grubs eat the roots of your grass, particularly in August and September, so your grass has trouble absorbing the water it needs to stay alive.
And here in Colorado, this is the time of the year when our grass is already kind of stressed out from the heat, right?
You also may end up with critters, like raccoons, digging holes in your grass trying to get the grubs.
So, here are some options for protecting your lawn.
If you are moving into a new home and you have a choice of grass, the beetles are less crazy about some “warm season” grasses, like Bermuda, Blue Grama and Dog Tuff grass.
So, you may want to do some research on what it’s like to have a warm season grass lawn.
Or, you may want to skip a grass lawn all together.
If you have a traditional lawn, like Kentucky bluegrass, you can keep your grass healthier starting in the spring.
This makes it more resistant to beetle damage.
This means mowing your grass at a longer length (not short like a putting green).
Longer grass means you have longer roots. Shorter grass means shorter roots, and shorter roots are vulnerable.
It helps to fertilize your lawn, so it gets the nutrients it needs.
It helps to “aerate” your lawn — that’s when the dirt plugs are taken out of your grass — so air and water can get down to the roots.
And it helps to give your lawn a deep, soaking water and then no water for the next few days, rather than watering for a short amount of time every day.
All of these steps will keep your roots happier.
And the healthier your grass is going into July, August and September when those grubs are chomping away, the more your lawn will be able to handle the damage from grubs.
Here’s another thing.
Female beetles like damp yards to lay their eggs, so if your lawn is healthy and you can minimize your watering in July and August, you will deter the beetles from laying their eggs in your yard.
This also helps because the beetle eggs and those baby grubs will often die if they dry out.
In case you’re wondering, there ARE some insecticides and bio-controls you can put down.
I will share a resource with you shortly, so you can see your options.
But again, do your research because some have minimal effects on bees, pets and humans, and others are more toxic.
Oh, and there is one treatment worth mentioning that was popular for a few years, but it hasn’t proven to be all that successful in killing the grubs.
It’s called milky spore — it’s a biological control you apply to your lawn.
It’s shown to have a really LOW effective rate for controlling Japanese beetles, so again, you may want to save your money and skip that one.
And if you want to learn more about this, you can read about it in the helpful resource I’ve promised you.
The Colorado State University Extension has created an up-to-date fact sheet on Japanese beetles.
[Note: You’ll find more resources below too.]
The fact sheet is based on research about Japanese beetles, and it includes a list of specific products to help control the beetles.
I will share upfront, the fact sheet can get a little technical, but it’s still helpful.
So, if you’re interested, check it out.
And if you’d love to feel more confident with flower gardening in Colorado, please click subscribe below [on YouTube].
Go get those beetles, and I’ll see you next time.
[music]
More Japanese Beetle resources to help you
- Japanese beetle plant damage lists. The Douglas County Extension in Colorado has crowdsourced a list of plants that beetle like and dislike (including annual flowers, perennials, shrubs, trees and even veggies).
- Fact sheet on Japanese beetles from the Colorado State University (CSU) Extension. It includes options for products to use to control the beetles.
- Products to control and kill Japanese beetles (an article from Tagawa Garden Center). It includes photos of products you can buy to control the adult beetles and the grubs. These products are in line with the CSU Extension fact sheet.

by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
Your spring flowers look as happy as kids on the first day of vacation… and then, you see the weather forecast: SNOW.
Ugh.
The good news is…
Spring flowering bulbs — like tulips and daffodils (pictured below) — are surprisingly resilient. Snow can be a good insulator for plants. And yes, I know we need the water.

So, if you’re wondering, “Will snow kill spring flowers, like tulips?”, the good news is it’s extremely unlikely.
(Phew, right?)
The bad news is…
Heavy spring snows can make a mess of tulips and daffodils that have started flowering.
Depending on how much snow you get, it can weigh down, smoosh or break your flowers, ending your pretty blooms for this year.


Temperatures can be an issue too
Cold temperatures (like a hard freeze) can ruin the blooms on some spring flowers, including the buds that haven’t quite opened yet.
I want my flower blooms to last as long as they can
That’s why I prefer to protect some of my spring flowers that are blooming — or are just about to bloom.
When my tulips or daffodils are blooming and there’s more than a dusting of snow in the forecast, I choose to cover them with tall buckets, empty flowerpots, frost tents, etc.
I do this so they don’t get crushed by the snow. That way, I still have flower blooms when the snow is over.


I keep my eye on the low temperatures too
Some spring flowers are more sensitive than others to freezing temperatures.
In my garden, allium and tulips tend to be the most sensitive. You can see an example of allium below.

I’ve had enough flower buds (the blooms that haven’t opened yet) get dinged by hard freezes in the spring that I like to protect them.
When I see nighttime temperatures dipping and dancing into the mid-20s (or below) in the forecast, I’ll cover my allium and tulips — focusing on the ones that are blooming and the ones that have flower buds.
I’ve never gotten a freeze or hard frost that’s killed my spring plants. Rather, I just don’t get flower blooms that year. I have to wait until next year.
So, when I’m covering my spring flowers, I’m trying to protect that season’s blooms.
Do you have to cover your spring flowers when snow is coming?
Nope! Depending on your snowfall and how naturally protected your flowers are, they may be just fine. It’s all a matter of how proactive you want to be.
I don’t worry about my tulips when they’re just leaves
If my tulips are coming up and they only have leaves (but no buds or blooms yet), I don’t cover them.
Personally, I also don’t worry about the early spring bloomers, like crocuses below. Those lil’ dudes are tough!
Related topics that may interest you:

by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics
When you buy a flower plant…
You may notice a strange phrase on the plant tag that says: “Hardiness zones” or “Zones.”
If you’re wondering, “What is a plant hardiness zone? What does that mean?”, you’re in the right place.

At its most basic, a plant hardiness zone tells you whether a plant is likely to survive the winter temperatures in your area.
It’s a helpful concept to understand because it can play a role in whether your plants will come back or not.
I like to think of a hardiness zone like a jean size
Think, for a moment, about your favorite pair of jeans.

When you put them on, they fit you like a glove. They feel good. They make you look good. They make your butt look good.
YOU. LOVE. THEM.
Sure, you could wear a size or two bigger, but they just wouldn’t feel right.
And yes, it’s possible you may be able to s-q-u-e-e-z-e into jeans one size smaller — with the help of some serious Spanx or extra reps at the gym. But your jeans REALLY wouldn’t feel right. You wouldn’t last very long in them.
Nope, there’s a sweet spot.
Your favorite jeans are the right size for you.
Your garden is like your beloved pair of denims: It has a sweet spot too
It’s “size” is known as its hardiness zone.
And that zone number tells you which plants should be the right fit for surviving winter temperatures and returning in your garden next year.
You can try planting flowers that don’t fit your garden’s plant hardiness zone, but they’re less likely to return.
Luckily, you don’t have to become a meteorologist to figure out your zone

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) created a simple way to help you choose plants for your garden.
It’s called the “USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.”
Basically, they’ve assigned a zone to where you live. Your zone is based on the coldest temperatures that are expected in your area.
As long as you choose plants that match your zone, your plants should be strong enough to survive winter temperatures in your area.
The opportune word here is “should.” Hardiness zones are based on the expected coldest temperatures in your area. However, Mama Nature has been known to push the boundaries of coldest temps — like the arctic blast that swept much of the U.S. in February 2021. Plus, there are other factors that can come into play on whether your plants survive winter in the West. The key takeaway? While plant hardiness zones are helpful, they aren’t perfect.
Let’s look at the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

You may notice that the coastlines (in oranges and yellows) tend to have warmer winters than the upper-central portion of the United States (in greens, blues and purples).
That’s because the oceans help moderate winter temperatures.
In the Rocky Mountain region of the country, we have a WIDE range of plant hardiness zones. It depends on where you live.
For example, let’s say you live in the Front Range of Colorado. Most areas along the Front Range are in Zone 5 and 6. The lowest extreme temperatures you’re expected to get are -10 degrees to -20 degrees Fahrenheit below zero.

You can find your plant hardiness zone on the USDA website
Okay, you’ve looked up your zone number…
Now what the heck are you supposed to do with it?
When you go to buy flowers, look for the zones on the plant tags (tucked in the containers).
If you want your plants to come back next year, pick flowers that match YOUR zone number.
For example, let’s say you live in Zone 5
You see this red fountain grass (below) at the store, and you’d love to plant it in your garden. The plant tag says it’s “annual except in zones 9-11.”
This plant tag is telling you that this grass will likely only survive winter temperatures in Zones 9-11.
Because you are in Zone 5, this plant will look great in your garden for one summer, but it should NOT come back next year. It isn’t “cold hardy” where you live.
Let’s look at another example
You like the look of the plant below called Red Birds in a Tree. (By the way, this is one of my favorite plants in my garden. My neighbors always ask about it, and the hummingbirds LOVE it!)
The plant tag for this flower says, “Zones 3-9.” Do you see the zones below?

In our example, your garden is in Zone 5, so this plant SHOULD return next year. It should come back in any of the Zones 3-9.
Use your zone to be a smarter plant shopper
When you buy plants that you want to return every year:
- Don’t assume that the plants at the store are right for where you live.
- Check the plant tags to make sure their plant hardiness zones match yours.
- If you’re buying plants online, look for each plant’s hardiness zone in the online description of the plant.
If you pick a plant that doesn’t match your zone, you may find yourself a replacing dead plant next year!
While your plant hardiness zone is helpful, it’s only ONE part of choosing the right flowers for your western garden
Remember that your plant hardiness zone is like your jean size.
When you’re buying jeans, the size is important, yes.
But you probably care about other things too — like the the length, fit and color.
If you’re 5’3′, tall jeans are going to create unnecessary work for you.
And we do not want unnecessary work!

In your western garden, you also want to know:
- How much water your plants need (can they tolerate semi-arid conditions and drought?)
- How well your plants can handle intense sunlight (at elevation, we’re closer to the sun, so our sunlight is tougher on plants)
- Your plants’ tolerance to things like hail and wind
- What kind of soil the plants like
- And more
Here’s an example of what can happen if you only think about your plant hardiness zone.
Again, let’s say you live in Zone 5.
If you ONLY consider your plant hardiness zone when choosing flowers, you may find yourself planting the same flowers that thrive in humid, rainy, coastal Maine.

Not the best idea for your semi-arid garden in Colorado or Utah, right?
It’s helpful to choose flower plants that fit your zone, but know that your zone is only one part of finding the best flowers for your western garden.
Related tips that may interest you:

by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
If you have petunias, you may be wondering how to keep your petunias looking good, especially when the blooms start dying.
In this week’s video, you’ll:
- See exactly where to trim your petunias, so your plants look pretty and you encourage them to keep giving you new blooms.
- Find out when you DON’T need to prune your petunia plants.
- Discover what to look for to make sure your petunias aren’t “going to seed.” When your petunias start making seeds, it takes a lot of their energy.
Click the video above to watch.
Prefer to read?
Simply scroll down for the transcript.
TRANSCRIPT:
How to Trim Petunias to Keep Them Looking Pretty
Are you wondering, “How do I maintain my petunias?”
“When the petals die, what am I supposed to do?”
That’s what we’re going to talk about in today’s tip.
Hi, I’m Ann with Go West Gardener.
[music]
Inspiring new western gardeners to find their green thumbs with flowers.
I love that you’re wondering how to maintain your petunias because taking a few small steps can make a big difference between colorful, showy flowers versus having stringy, kind-of-boring looking petunias.
Let’s dig in.
Petunias can go through a cycle of blooms.
They flower, that flower bloom dies, and then new flower blooms show up on your plant.
On many petunias, though, you need to manually remove the dead blooms in order to encourage new ones.
This is known as deadheading.
And yes, it’s more than just picking off the dead petals.
Here’s what I mean.Think of your petunia bloom as a torch holding a flame.
This little stem is the torch, and your petal is the flame.
So, when petal dies, people often do one of two things.
One, they remove the dead petal (the flame), but they leave the little stem (the torch).
Or two, they may just wait for the dead petal to fall off.
Here’s the problem.
You may create a little seed pod where the flower was.
It looks like a green kernel.
Do you see it here? It grows in the center of the torch.
This is known as “going to seed.”
And while going to seed sound like a great thing, it means your plant could stop giving you new flowers.
And we want colorful blooms.
So, here’s what you want to do instead.
You want to cut off the entire torch, trimming back to the nearest main stem.
Right here.
Now, some petunias have been bred, so that they can’t go to seed or they mostly deadhead themselves.
Like the “tidal wave” variety.
You’ll see this name on the plant tag when you buy it.
In theory, this means you don’t have to remove the dead blooms.
When you look at the little torch, you SHOULD see a brown center.
But if you see a green center, Mother Nature has found a way to go to seed, and you may want to trim off that torch down to the stem.
Please click subscribe below [on YouTube] … and share a little love while you’re at it.
See you next time!
[music]
Related topics that may interest you:

by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Jun 20, 2025 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
This cutie is known as Lantana.
This colorful flower reminds me of a delicious bowl of sherbet.
It isn’t a flower you want to eat, though — no matter how yummy it looks.
It’s actually a little poisonous. Be careful where you plant it if you have wee ones or dogs.
The butterflies and hummingbirds love Lantana, though!


Lantana is an “annual” in western states like Colorado and Wyoming.
This means it blooms all summer, but it doesn’t return next year.
Add this flower to your flowerpots or in the ground for a BIG pop of color.

Here’s why to add this colorful beauty to your summer garden…
- Lantana can take the heat, so it’s a good flower to try in your garden hot spots.
- It’s easy going. Lantana grows well in sunny locations, as well as partly shady spots.
- You’ll find it in many colors, from vibrant oranges and electric pinks, to calming yellows and purples.
- It tolerates drought, which is good in our semi-arid climate.
- Lantana attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Yay!
- This plant is deer resistant, so it isn’t the first choice of deer for munching.

Do you live in another region of the country?
If you live outside the Rocky Mountain region (like in the Southeast or Southwest), ask at your local garden center whether Lantana can be grown where you live.
There are some places where it isn’t allowed.
Related topics that may interest you:

by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
It’s tempting to want to get out early in the fall and tidy up your western garden for winter, especially if you’re having a mild fall. But is it too early? When’s the best time to cut back perennials in Colorado and similar states?
In this article, you’ll get the scoop on:
- Why it helps to wait to trim down plants
- Whether it’s better to cut back perennials in the fall or spring in Colorado (hint: it depends!)
Let’s start with your garden in the fall…
No need to rush it. Put your feet up. Enjoy the fall color!
Your plants will thank you for it.
On autumn days, it may look like your perennials aren’t doing much. But they’re doing A LOT… under ground.
In the fall, soil temperatures are still warm, and air temperatures are cooling off. For most plants, these are ideal conditions for growing roots. And healthy roots are the secret to bigger, stronger plants next season, which is so important in our gotta-have-some-moxie West.
So, don’t cut back your perennials too early, especially if they’re still green.
Instead, let them gather as much energy as they can for their roots, so they can come back strong and showy in the spring. Wait until you’ve gone through several hard freezes before you get out your pruners. (A hard freeze is when temperatures drop to 28 degrees or below.)
When temps start dipping and dancing their way into the mid-20s, you’ll likely see the leaves on your perennials wither, brown, curl or drop. That’s your cue to prune IF you want to cut back your perennials in the fall.
Of course, then the question becomes…
Is it better to cut back perennials in the fall or spring in Colorado and similar western states?
The short answer is: It depends.
Mama Nature likes to keep us on our toes!
Let’s assume you don’t live in an area that’s at risk for wildfires. If so, there are LOTS of good reasons to wait until late March, early April or even later to clean up leaf litter and cut back most perennials. For example, you’ll:
But there are a few instances when it helps to clean up some plants in the late fall. For example, it’s a good idea to cut back:
- Diseased plants or plants with pesky insects, so the problem doesn’t carry over to next season.
- Plants that spread seeds like a fairy godmother tossing pixie dust, assuming you don’t want more plants next year.
- Dried out leaves and stems if you live in a wildland-urban interface and your home has some wildfire risk. (The Colorado State Forest Service has a helpful PDF on how to clean up your plants to reduce wildfire risk.)
There is no one-size-fits all approach to western garden clean-up.

What I do in my Colorado perennial garden
When I first moved to Denver, I used to cut back my perennials in the fall. I left my flowerpot clean-up until the spring.
Now I do the opposite.
I tackle my flowerpots in the fall. (Here’s why.) And I wait until April to cut back the majority of my perennials. I wait until I see new spring growth appearing from the ground. I try to wait until late April to clean out the leaf debris in my garden.
Because native bees often nest in the pithy plant stems (like rose canes), I set aside those types of plant stalks once I trim the plants down. Some bees don’t emerge until later in the spring.
Why not clean up the garden earlier, like in the late fall or in February?
Two reasons:
- Unpredictable Colorado weather. I’ve learned the hard way that we tend to bounce back and forth between winter and summer. Big temperature swings in February, March and April can be tough on our plants. I leave last year’s growth on the plants as long as possible to give them as much protection as possible.
- Pollinators. Many bees that are nesting in plant stems and under leaf debris aren’t ready to emerge that early. Plus, our big temperature swings are hard on overwintering insects. The leaf litter helps insulate them.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Buying flowers for western gardens can feel like a lot of work.
Especially when you live in the semi-arid, gotta-have-some-moxie West — like Colorado and Utah!
This isn’t a place where you a dig a few holes, plop in some flowers and watch them grow into a lush jungle. Nope, our growing conditions can be tough on plants (and on our water supply), so we need to be smart in the flowers we choose.
Let’s say you’d like a beautiful, drought-tolerant garden, but you want to skip the hassle of figuring out flowers.
You may want to explore pre-planned gardens for Colorado and Utah instead. They’re also known as gardens in a box.
In this article, you’ll get the scoop on:
- What a pre-planned garden is
- Why they can make creating a western flower garden much easier
- Beautiful examples of pre-planned gardens that are drought tolerant
- An important tip for choosing a pre-planned flower garden

Pre-planned flower garden in Colorado. Image courtesy of Resource Central.
What is a pre-planned garden?
Typically, a pre-planned flower garden is a collection of beautiful flowers for a specific theme, like:
- Drought-tolerant flowers for a sunny portion of your yard
- Heat-loving flowers for tough, hot spots in your yard
- Pollinator gardens, like butterfly or hummingbird gardens
- Native plants that attract pollinators, like bees or birds, or
- Good plants for dry, shady spots in your yard
You receive the flowers and a suggested garden design, or you get flower seeds and guidelines on how to plant them. Then, you get the satisfaction of planting the flowers and enjoying the gorgeous results.
But you don’t have to research which flowers grow well together.
Many pre-planned gardens also take care of the plant shopping for you too.
You get the beauty without the headaches.
Think of a pre-planned garden like a dinner meal kit.
You get a chef-inspired recipe and fresh ingredients, so you can focus on the joy of cooking and enjoying every bite. But you don’t have to waste your time on meal planning or grocery shopping.
Pre-planned flower gardens usually work the same way.
Here are perks of a pre-planned garden:
- You’ll save time.
- You’ll enjoy a professionally-designed garden without the expense of a landscaper.
- Your flowers will look beautiful together. (Get ready for neighbors to stop and admire your garden!)
- You’ll often get color all season because the flowers have been specially selected to bloom at different times.
- You should have a happy garden because your flowers prefer similar growing conditions, like how much sunlight and water they need.
- You’ll likely lower your water bill and do some good for Mama Nature if you pick a garden with waterwise plants and native plants.
- You can skip trial and error and wasted money, if you feel like you’re guessing which flowers to plant and hoping they’ll grow. (Fewer dead plants!)
Check out these examples of pre-planned flower gardens for Colorado and similar western states:
1) Pre-planned flower gardens from High Country Gardens
High Country Gardens is an online garden retailer. Think of them like Zappos for plants.
They have beautiful, pre-planned gardens, in addition to selling individual plants. And many of their pre-planned gardens have been created with our tough, western growing conditions in mind.

The Summer Dreams Pre-Planned Garden, planted in New Mexico. Used with permission from High Country Gardens. You can find the plant list on their website.
High Country Gardens specializes in native and waterwise plants. They’re a good source for flower plants if you want to create a sustainable, low-water landscape. They also carry a lot of unique plants that you can’t find at local garden centers.
You can order their pre-planned flower gardens for delivery in the spring or in the fall. They often sell out, so plan ahead. Don’t wait until the last minute to order.
Check out the pre-planned flower gardens from High Country Gardens here >>
2) Gardens in a Box from Resource Central | Colorado
Resource Central is a nonprofit in the Front Range of Colorado. They help homeowners conserve natural resources, like water. They have a special, waterwise garden program called “Gardens in a Box.”

Illustration of the native Colorado Oasis garden. Image courtesy of Resource Central.
Gardens in a Box are drought-tolerant, pre-planned flowers gardens. They were designed for Colorado’s semi-arid climate and tricky growing conditions. You can choose from a variety of waterwise flower gardens — like native flowers, colorful flowers for shady areas, flowers for mountain gardens, etc.
Each “box” comes with plants and a professional design.

Pre-planned flower garden in Colorado. Image courtesy of Resource Central.
Gardens in a Box are available for planting in the spring or fall. They go on sale during the winter (for the spring) and the summer (for the fall). They’re popular and sell out, so if you’re interested, sign up to be notified when the Gardens in a Box go on sale. When you buy a Garden in a Box, you’ll choose a pick-up location along the Front Range of Colorado, so you can easily pick it up. The gardens are not delivered to your home.
Check out Gardens in a Box from Resource Central >>
If you live outside the Front Range of Colorado, check with your city or local water agency to see if they offer a similar program.
3) Seed mixes from Botanical Interests
Botanical Interests is an online seed company that started in Colorado. They offer a range of flower seed mixes with beautiful flowers. In their mixes, you often can get both annuals (the one-summer-only flowers) and perennials (the flowers that return every year). And yes, they have a waterwise garden mix too, as can see below.

Image courtesy of Botanical Interests
Growing flowers from seeds has its perks:
- One, it’s rewarding to see your plant babies come up from the ground.
- Two, it’s economical. You don’t need fancy indoor growing equipment for these mixes. You just spread the seeds directly in the ground. (Don’t worry, the seed packets come with instructions!)
Depending on the flowers you’re growing, you may plant your seeds in the spring, fall or late winter.
If Botanical Interests is sold out of the seed mix you want, you can sign up to get an email when the seeds become available. You also can find their seeds at local, independent garden centers in Colorado.
Check out the flower seed mixes from Botanical Interests here >>

Image used with permission from Botanical Interests
4) Free, downloadable garden designs from Plant Select
Plant Select is a non-profit collaboration between Colorado State University, Denver Botanic Gardens and the professional green industry. This non-profit helps bring unique and sustainable plants to market that are inspired by the Rocky Mountain region.
They have free, downloadable garden designs available on their website. Many of their designs are waterwise gardens (beautiful flower gardens that need very little water).
In this case, you have to go to a garden center to buy the plants yourself, but the professional designs are done for you.
Check out the downloadable garden designs from Plant Select here >>
Before you pick a pre-planned flower garden for Colorado (or a similar state)…
Just make sure the plants work well for your growing conditions
For example, if you’re buying a pre-planned garden from an online retailer, make sure the garden is well suited for the semi-arid West.
A pre-planned garden with flowers that thrive on the East Coast or in the Midwest (where they have fertile soils and lots of moisture) may not be the best fit for your it-hasn’t-rained-in-2-months garden in Colorado, right?
If you’re ever in doubt, you can always chat with the company you’re buying from. Typically, they’re happy to help.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, In-ground garden
You’re at the store this spring, and colorful flowers catch your eye. It’s natural to want to drive straight home and plant them. Bring on the curb appeal!
But hold up…
Before you plant your flowers, it’s a good idea to help them adjust to outdoor conditions first.
In garden lingo bingo, this is known as “hardening off” or “acclimating” your plants. Many flower plants have been growing inside in greenhouses. They’ve had spa-like conditions indoors. And they’re all soft and tender from these comfy conditions.
Gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions helps toughen them up to wind, sunlight and outdoor temps. For example, their cell walls grow thicker. And they can better resist the stresses of being outside.

Think of this like preparing for the start of ski & snowboard season.
Sure, you could hit the slopes without getting your legs ready. But if you haven’t been working out, your legs are going to be ON FIRE after your first day out. You may be too sore to ski or ride for the rest of the week.
If you cross-train first, your muscles will be in much better shape. You’ll have more endurance.
Cross-training your flowers gives them more toughness too.
What happens if you don’t harden off your plants?
It can be a shock for young plants.
(And shock is not what we’re going for!)
Plants that haven’t been hardened off can struggle in multiple ways, says the University of Nebraska Extension. For example, these plants:
- Are vulnerable to sunburn, windburn (moisture loss and tissue death), and dehydration from freeze damage.
- Can break or shred easily.
- Can become stunted or die.
I see sunburn on a lot of newly-planted flowers around the Denver area in the late spring. It looks like their leaves have been bleached.
You’ve paid good money for your flowers. You want healthy plants—not flowers that look like they’re struggling, right?
Here’s how to gradually harden flowers to the outdoors:
Put your flowers outside in a protected spot for a few hours. What’s a protected spot? Look for someplace that doesn’t get direct sunlight and is sheltered from the wind, like a covered porch right up next to your home.

Then, bring them back inside or into an attached garage.
Give them a little more exposure to wind and sunlight each day. Add a few hours each day. You’ll build up their endurance, so they’re ready for planting. If your flowers like sunlight, start with shade… then morning sunlight… then work your way up to afternoon sunlight. Also work them up to staying outside overnight by the end of your hardening off period.

Try to keep your flowers from getting dried out and wilting. It’s easy for flowers to get dried out in their small nursery pots. If you pick them up and they feel light in your hand, they may need water. But if you see a few leaves turning yellow and they feel heavy when you pick them up, they may be getting too much water. Slowly reduce the amount of water you give them—but not so much that they look droopy.
Keep your eye on temperatures. If temperatures are dipping down near freezing, keep your plants inside.
Don’t fertilize them. Hold off on encouraging new growth.
Worth noting: Some flowers and veggies like warmer air and ground temperatures. They won’t do well if temps drop below 50-55 degrees. If you aren’t sure what your plants prefer, just ask at the garden center.
How many days should you harden off plants?
Some agriculture extension offices say 7-10 days. Others say 5-7 days. And some say 10-14 days.
I usually go about a week for the plants I’m buying from the store.
Ways to make it easy, peasy to harden flowers:
Make your plants easy to carry. Put your plants in a laundry basket, an open Amazon box or another container, so you can quickly move them inside and outside.
Roll, baby, roll. I have a neighbor who puts her plants on a small wagon that she wheels in and out of her garage each day.

Schedule reminders or set an alarm on your phone. That way, you’ll remember to take your flowers out. More importantly, you’ll remember to bring them back inside. (An alarm can be so helpful!)
Get creative if you head to a job every day. Maybe you want to start cross-training your flowers on the weekend. Then, if you’re going to leave them out all day during the week, start with protected spots.
What kinds of flower plants should you harden off?
- Flower plants that have been growing inside. This includes annuals (the one-season-only flowers) and perennials (the flowers that come back each year). Even some of our toughest plants in the intermountain west need to adjust to outdoor conditions. If you’re buying plants at an indoor nursery, it helps to harden them off. If you see plants outside at a store and you aren’t sure when they arrived from the greenhouse, I’d err on the side of hardening them off.
- Flowers you’re planting in the mountains. According to the Colorado State University (CSU) Extension, many mountain plants are grown in nurseries below 6000 feet. These plants may not be ready for mountain conditions yet, so it helps to harden off these plants. If your flower plants have been locally grown and they’re growing outside, they’re likely hardened off already.
- New seedlings you started inside your home and are transitioning to the outdoors. These plant babies are more likely to need more time to harden up. I’d give them 10-14 days.
If your flower plants have been growing outside already, you should be good.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | In-ground garden, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
Are you feeling adventurous this spring? Want to add a splash of color to your flowerpots?
Get to know pansies — a type of viola! These early spring flowers can add a BIG pop of color to your Colorado garden, especially if you’re ready to kiss winter goodbye.
You may be thinking, “Wait, can I plant flowers in pots in March? It seems a little early.”
You can plant pansies in March, April and May in most of Colorado, even though we can still get snow and yo-yo temperature swings. (Weird, right?)
If you live someplace else in the West, your timing may vary just a little, but timing aside, all these tips apply.

Pansies can handle cool temperatures.
Pansies are in their happy place when temperatures are in the 40s to 60s, and they’re surprisingly tolerant of our wacky spring weather.
Typically, March and April are good times to start planting pansies at our lower elevations in Colorado.
In my garden in the Front Range, I find that late March is often an ideal time to plant pansies. We’re usually past all those arctic temps. (More on this below!)
If you live in the mountains, I may wait a bit longer, depending on how cold your temperatures are and how much snow you have.
What growing conditions do pansies like?
Pansies grow well in dirt (or “soil” in garden lingo) that drains well and is rich in nutrients.
Many of us don’t have rich, well-draining soils in the intermountain west. But no worries! You can plant your pansies in pots with a good potting soil.
Western states (like Colorado) get intense sunlight, so it helps to plant your pansies someplace that faces east, whether it’s a patio, front porch or garden. These spots get morning sunlight, which isn’t as hard on pansies as afternoon sunlight.
If you’re planting pansies in afternoon sunlight, you may want to find a spot that gets “dappled” light (sunlight through tree branches) or a little shade (like a western-facing porch that gets some cover).
Can you plant your pansies directly in a west-facing or south-facing spot?
Sure!
Just know that as soon as temperatures heat up, your pansies may start looking stressed. You’d likely get a little more mileage out of them in an east-facing garden.

What kind of care do pansies need?
Pansies benefit from “deadheading” (trimming off dead blooms) and fertilizing. This keeps them looking good.
Look for a mild flower fertilizer with a 5-10-5 ratio. Those are the numbers you’ll see on the container. This ratio helps support root growth and encourage new flower blooms.
What to do when you bring your pansies home
It’s tempting to plant your pansies right away.
You got them to enjoy them, right?
But chances are they’ve been growing in a cozy, warm greenhouse. They’ve been living large in spa-like conditions, and they’re tender. Gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions can help them toughen up. In garden lingo, this is known as “hardening” your plants.
Otherwise, they may struggle.
You can find out how to harden pansies here.

Pansies can handle cold temps, but they DO have their limits.
Pansies that are healthy and have been planted a while can usually handle quick dips into the teens and single digits.
But newly-planted pansies can be more sensitive.
After a warm, sunny day in Colorado in the early spring, it’s easy to forget how cold it can get at night, so watch those nighttime temps.
While newly-planted pansies can usually tolerate a light frost, it helps to protect them (keep them warm) if your temperatures are going to drop below freezing.
You can find 6 ways to protect your flowers from frosts and freezes here.
PRO TIP: Keep your eye on the temps BEFORE you plant your pansies. If the weather forecast shows multiple days when temperatures are going to dip well below freezing, just hold off on planting them until you get through that cold spell.

Pansies don’t like hot weather.
Let’s say you live someplace with blazing hot summers, like our lower elevations in Colorado and Utah.
When temperatures start to rise, it’s a good idea to replace your pansies with flowers that are happier in the heat. Think of this like changing out your wardrobe from your spring clothes to your summer clothes.
For example, when summer arrives, I replace the pansies in my western-facing flowerpots with flowers that can handle the hot afternoon sun.
Do you have to replace your pansies?
Nope … but they’ll probably stop blooming in the heat, and they may look stressed.
Translation: They won’t look very good!
Pansies are treated as “annuals” in states like Colorado.
This means you’ll enjoy them for one growing season, but it’s unlikely they’ll return next year.
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