Gardening in a Heat Wave: 5 Ways to Garden Smarter, Not Harder

Gardening in a Heat Wave: 5 Ways to Garden Smarter, Not Harder

Many years ago, I cheered on a friend as he ran a local marathon. As my friend began running, he looked like he belonged in a Nike ad: Strong. Healthy. Determined. Just do it, baby!

And he set a great pace until about mile 16 …

… when heat and exhaustion caught him like a cat chasing a mouse. Life decisions were questioned. (Was a burrito really the best decision for breakfast?) He was doing the best he could, but he was digging deep.

I find myself thinking about mile 16 as we slog through heat waves in our western gardens.

Temps are blazing. Weeds are thriving. Critters, like Japanese beetles, are munching. And munching. And munching.

It can feel a little exhausting. Garden decisions are questioned: Was it really the best idea to impulse-buy flowers in the last 2 weeks? (Asking for a friend. Ahem.)

Heat waves are an ideal time to talk about how to garden smarter, not harder.

If you find yourself gardening in the heat, here are 5 ways to keep the beauty coming with less effort.

1) Make sure your flower garden has 1-2″ of mulch.

Mulch is your friend when you’re gardening in the heat. It keeps your plants’ roots cooler. (Happier plants!) It keeps your plants hydrated. (Less watering!) It helps suppress weeds. (Less work!)

If you aren’t familiar with mulch, it’s a material you put on top of the ground—like small wood chips or “squeegee,” which is a smaller form of pea gravel.

You can even put mulch in a flowerpot if you want.

I use a few different materials for mulch, depending on the plants. Some of my gardens have mini-bark (small wood chips). Some have “soil pep” (a very fine wood mulch). I like these smaller wood mulches because they break down more easily than big, chunky wood mulch, adding organic material to my garden beds. They’re less likely to soak up water like big, chunky wood mulch. I also think they look better, but that’s just personal preference.

In my more xeric gardens (the low-water gardens), I use squeegee as a mulch. It drains well, and it doesn’t add organic material to the ground. Many low-water plants like “leaner” soil, meaning it isn’t rich in organic material.

If you're gardening in a heat wave, mulches like squeegee can help keep your plants' roots cool.

2) Snap a few pics of your flowers on your phone.

Take note of which flowers look like champs in the heat, which plants are limping along, and which flowers are guzzling water like a 6-year-old chugging juice boxes.

At some point, you may wish to replace the strugglers and water guzzlers with flowers that thrive in our western heat and drought. That way, you can spend your time sipping chilled beverages and dazzling your friends with how fab your garden looks.

You can find western flower ideas here.

3) Focus your energy on newly planted flowers.

Have you popped any plants in the ground or in your flowerpots in the last 4 weeks? Those plant babies need more attention in the heat. Heck, even low-water plants need frequent watering their first season, so they can establish healthy roots.

For your in-ground plants, I’ve found that rain umbrellas make wonderful sun shields for new plants in extreme heat. Just make sure it isn’t windy. (Learned that one the hard way!)During garden heat waves, find ways to shade new transplants, like using umbrellas.

You also can prop up shade cloth, which you can find at garden supply companies.

Another tip… Plant small, landscape flags next to your new plants during their first month. That way, you’re less likely to overlook them or forget to water them, especially if they’re tucked in among bigger plants.

When temps are blazing in months like July, it’s a good idea to check newly planted flowers every day (for the first 4 weeks or so) to see if they need water.

And consider trimming off the flower blooms on your newly planted perennials (the plants that come back every year). Snip, snip!

You may be thinking, “Wait, whaaaaat??”

I know that sounds a little crazy. You probably bought the plant BECAUSE OF the pretty blooms. But cutting off the flowers can allow your new plants to focus their energy on establishing good root systems in the heat.

4) Be smart with your flowerpots.

If possible, give your flowerpots a good soak in the morning by 10 am. Watering in the morning reduces evaporation, and it helps keep your flowers hydrated through the day.

Some flowers in your pots may wilt from heat, rather than just from lack of water. (I’m looking at you, Sweet Potato Vine.) Before you water, make sure the soil (dirt) in your flowerpots actually needs water, so you don’t overwater your flowers by accident.

You may want to move any flowerpots that are struggling in the heat to a shadier spot for a few days, if you can.

5) Find efficient ways to water your garden.

For example, check out drip irrigation. Drip lines are thin, little hoses that run near your plants’ roots. Drip systems are 90% efficient, compared to sprinkler systems which are only 50%-70% efficient, says the Colorado State University Extension.

Do you have clay soil—dense, sticky dirt that’s common in many parts of the intermountain west?

If yes, it helps to get in the habit of watering your established plants deeply and infrequently, instead of giving them quick, daily splashes of water. This encourages your plants to grow deeper roots, so their roots can find water in the ground. (Read: Less work for you.) Use your best judgment, of course. If your plants need water, then water them.

Stay strong! Stay cool! You’ve got this!

Related tips that may interest you:

Guide: 10 of the Best Long-Blooming Flowers for the Semi-Arid West

3 Plants That Struggle in Western Winters (What NOT to Plant in Your Colorado Landscape)

3 Plants That Struggle in Western Winters (What NOT to Plant in Your Colorado Landscape)

No one wants to end up with extra garden chores and sad-looking plants

But that’s what can happen if you accidentally pick plants that are known to struggle in Colorado landscapes — particularly during winter.

So, in this tip, you’ll get the scoop on 3 popular plants to AVOID planting in Colorado and similar western states. These plants can be high maintenance here. (Do you remember the TV show, “What Not to Wear?” Think of this article as: “What Not to Plant.”)

These 3 plants are very popular in other parts of the country, but they don’t like our winters. They tend to struggle in our:

  • Dry climate
  • Drying winter winds
  • Intense winter sun
  • Big temperature swings (from above freezing, to below freezing like a kindergarten seesaw)

You’ll probably see these plants at your garden center, so use this article to be a smarter shopper. Let’s dig in!

Boxwoods

Boxwoods are decorative shrubs. They grow well in regions of the country with milder winters. It’s hard to open a garden magazine without seeing a lush, eastern garden that’s lined with boxwoods.
Boxwoods are examples of what not to plant in Colorado because they struggle in our winters.

Boxwoods are evergreen. When they’re planted in a place where they’re happy, they typically stay green through the entire winter. I like to think of evergreen plants as staying “forever green.” It also means they don’t go dormant (into hibernation mode), so it’s important to keep them regularly watered through the winter.

Unfortunately, in western states like Colorado and Utah, boxwoods can be temperamental

During the winter, boxwood leaves have a tendency to dry out — often turning brown or orange.
Boxwoods that get afternoon sun are more vulnerable to winter burn, like these west facing boxwood shrubs.

You also may see translucent yellow leaves (like the leaves below in the upper left).
Western-facing boxwoods turning a brown color from winter burn.

You may hear this called “winter burn,” and it isn’t a pretty look.

When you see boxwoods at the garden center, they’re going to look lush, green and super cute. But save yourself the headaches and skip them!

“But I have my heart set on boxwoods!” In this case, head to a locally-owned garden center. Ask whether they carry types of boxwoods that have a better track record in states like Colorado and Utah.

You may have more luck if you plant boxwoods in sheltered places in your yard that face east, northeast or north.

And just know they’re likely going to need more work and water to keep them looking good.

Manhattan Euonymus
(pronounced: yoo-on-uh-muhs)

These plants are like super-sized boxwoods. When they’re green, they look good.
Manhattan euonymus can get winter burn, making them plants to avoid in Colorado.

But this is another shrub that can struggle in Colorado winters

You may be wondering, “Okay, so what does winter damage look like on a Manhattan euonymus?”

The leaves on your Manhattan euonymus will turn yellow. The may become brittle and dried out. The leaves will start dropping off.

As the dead leaves slowly fall off, it’s like bad New Year’s Eve confetti. You may find yourself raking up these leaves for months … and months … and months.

(I’m speaking from personal experience here. I used to have Manhattan euonymus in my yard.)

With good watering, you should get buds for new leaves when temperatures warm up, but it takes time. When these shrubs get winter burn, they don’t look good for much of the year.
Manhattan Euonymous with winter damage known as winter burn or sun scald

If you want shrubs that stay consistently green through our yo-yo temperature swings during winter, this isn’t it. 🙂

Add Manhattan euonymus to your “What NOT to plant in Colorado and similar western states” list.

Arborvitaes
(pronounced: arbor-vie-tees)

Arborvitaes are trees and shrubs that are often used as hedges.
Arborvitaes struggle in our dry western winters and hard freezes.

They’re a popular landscape plant in humid regions of the country. They grow quickly, and they’re evergreen. Again, this means typically stay green over the winter. They don’t go dormant.

But arborvitaes are another plant to avoid in Colorado landscapes

Arborvitaes like a lot of moisture, so they may struggle if you aren’t great about winter watering.

Not to mention, our drying winter winds and our harsh freezes can be brutal for them. You may see them turn brown — almost like a rust color.
Close up of arborvitae with winter burn

Some years, your arborvitaes may do fine and make it through the winter without an issue.

Other years?

Not so much.
Row of brown arborvitae trees with winter burn

If you want to save yourself some headaches (and avoid the expense of replacing dead plants), skip arborvitaes in your Colorado landscape.

So, does this mean you CAN’T plant any of these shrubs and trees?

Friends, the beauty of gardening is you can try planting (almost) anything. You may be able to find a protected location in your yard where these plants are less vulnerable to winter damage.

But if you’re planning your landscape in Colorado, Utah or a similar western state, growing plants that are better adapted to our winters will take less effort!

Related tips that may interest you:

How to make a winter garden more beautiful

A Simple Flowerpot Design Tip: Take Your Flowers From “Meh” to “Wow!”

A Simple Flowerpot Design Tip: Take Your Flowers From “Meh” to “Wow!”

Looking for a design tip to make your flowerpots look prettier this summer?

Combine flowers of different heights!

Planting flowers of different heights can help you create visual interest.

Think of a city skyline or a beautiful mountain range. There are different layers that make things interesting, right?

The same is true for the flowers in your flowerpots.

In gardening lingo, this design concept is known as thrillers, fillers and spillers.

  • Thrillers are your tall flowers.
  • Fillers are your mid-size flowers.
  • Spillers are your flowers that spill out of the flower pot.

Examples of thrillers, fillers and spillers in two colorful flowerpots of flowers

if you find these words hard to remember or confusing, then…

Think about this flowerpot design tip in western terms.

You want your flowerpots to have mountains, foothills and waterfalls.

Your mountains are your tall flowers that add height and a strong focal point to your flowerpots.

For example, you could use a tall ornamental grass or a gorgeous red canna lily, like the one pictured below. (Just like the mighty peaks in a mountain range, these tall flowers are your thrillers.)
A red canna lily is a great example of a thriller flower in a flowerpot

Your foothills are your mid-size flowers that add interesting textures or pops of color, like the yellow Marguerite daisies below. (These flowers fill your flowerpots.)
A simple flowerpot design tip: Include filler flowers like these marguerite daisies to add color and texture

And your waterfalls are your flowers that spill out of your flowerpots and cascade down the sides, like the light-green licorice plant and lime-green sweet potato vine in the photo below. (These flowers are your spillers.)
Make your flowerpots prettier with spiller flowers that cascade out of a flowerpot like a waterfall

When you go to the garden center, how do you know whether a flower will make a good mountain, foothill or waterfall?

1. Notice which direction the plant is growing.

Even in the garden center, you can usually tell whether a flower is growing upright or growing down.

If you hold up a plant that seems to be trailing from its container, it could be a great flower to spill from your flowerpots like a waterfall. The pink petunias below are a good example.
When looking for spiller flowers for flowerpots, look for flowers that naturally trail from their containers

2. Look at the plant tag to check your flower’s final height.

Often times, the size of the flower in the garden center is only a fraction of how big that flower will grow by the end of the summer.

For example, a flower that’s about 8” tall in the garden center may grow several feet tall over the summer!

When you pick up flowers at the garden center, check their plant tags to see how tall they’ll grow.

If you pick up a flower that grows 14” to 36” tall, it could make a great mountain.

Flowers that aren’t quite as tall — 6” to 14” in height — can make great foothills.

Keep in mind, the height suggestions above are just that: Suggestions! Gardening is personal, so you can do whatever looks good to you.

For this flowerpot design tip to work, do you have to include mountains, foothills AND waterfalls?

This is a matter of personal preference.

Personally, I love all three together.

But you can definitely go with just two.

The flowerpots below are hanging in my neighbor’s yard. The pots are small, so she just used foothills and waterfalls. She didn’t have enough room for all three.
You don't need thrillers, fillers and spillers in pots. It's okay to include just two of these design ideas.

And the flowerpot below is really big, but the gardener made a strong statement with just mountains and foothills.
An example of a western flowerpot with thrillers and fillers.

If you liked this flowerpot design tip, you may also like:

Heat tolerant annuals for the semi-arid west

3 Misconceptions About When to Buy and Plant Flowers That Can Lead to Dead Plants (Ack!)

3 Misconceptions About When to Buy and Plant Flowers That Can Lead to Dead Plants (Ack!)

So, you’re dashing into Costco, and what grabs your eye?

Colorful, happy flowers just waiting for you to give them a new home, like a litter of fluffy puppies. Eeek!

You can’t help but walk over and take a closer look. After a long, drab winter, the flowers look so colorful and ALIVE.

But …

Is now even a good time to buy and plant flowers for your summer garden??

When IS a good time?

Those cute, lil’ flowers continue to stare up at you with their puppy dog eyes, and your doubts melt away.

You think, “Screw it, I’m buying them. Who cares about timing anyway?”
Should you plant flowers like geraniums when you see them at the store? It depends.

So, about that…

If you buy your summer flowers too early, you’ll have to protect your plant babies. Many of them don’t like frosts, snow or chilly temps.

If you don’t protect them, they can struggle and may even die.

(Not exactly the summer vibe you’re going for, right?)

In this tip, you’ll get the scoop on 3 misconceptions about when to buy and plant summer flowers.

You’ll discover how to:

  • Be a smarter shopper
  • Create less work for yourself
  • Get your flower season off to an awesome start (yesss!)

To keep things simple, I’m going to focus on “annuals.”

Annuals are the extroverts at the party.

They’re the showy flowers you often see for sale as you dash into the grocery store. Annuals give you pretty color for one growing season, but then they’re done. They’re popular flowers for flowerpots. You can plant them in the ground too.

Misconception 1:

As soon as you start seeing colorful flowers at the store, you’re in the clear to plant them.

If you buy flowers like petunias too early, you may need to protect them from frosts.

Imagine, for a moment, that you have friends visiting from San Diego.

It’s 50 degrees outside. You’re debating whether to wear shorts… and your friends want to put on parkas.

Many of your summer flowers are like your warm-blooded friends.

These flowers don’t like frosts AT ALL.

And many struggle in chilly temps. They want it to be at least 50 degrees outside — including temperatures at night. There’s a saying that these flowers like to have “warm feet.” They need warm soil to grow.

Yep, these tender flowers like sandals weather. Frosts, chilly temps and cold soils can stunt your flowers, so your flowers don’t grow. (It’s like the poor lil’ dudes are in shock!) Or worse, your new flowers may die.

Instead of using when you see flowers at the store as your signal to start planting, it’s more helpful to consider:

  • When are your chances for frost really low?
  • When are your temperatures consistently above 50 degrees?

If you buy your summer flowers early, it’s okay! But hold off on planting them. And be ready to protect your flowers from the cold for a while. (Translation: You’ll have a bit more work.)

Misconception 2:

The flowers in your summer pots can grow as long as temperatures are 32 degrees or warmer.

50 degrees can be a better planting guideline than 32 degrees.

Let me start out by saying, there are some flowers that don’t mind cooler temperatures. Pansies are an awesome example. These cold-hardy flowers are like your relatives from Minnesota. A lil’ cold doesn’t phase them!

If you live someplace with hot summers, these flowers can be awesome for your spring and fall flowerpots because they can handle chilly temps and light frosts — and they don’t like heat.

And if you live someplace with cooler summers and chances for frosts (like in mountain towns), these flowers can be a great choice.

But as I mentioned in Misconception #1, your summer flowers are usually happier with warm air and warm soil.

If you aren’t sure whether a flower prefers warm or cool temperatures, I’d err on the side of caution.

For your summer flowers, 50 degrees can be a more helpful guideline than 32 degrees.

Are you working on your garden lingo? “Tender annuals” are your flowers that prefer warm air and warm soil to grow. “Half-hardy annuals” are usually okay in cooler temps, but typically not frost. “Hardy annuals” are very resistant to chilly temps and can usually tolerate a little frost. They don’t like hot weather.

Misconception 3:

Mother’s Day is the perfect day to buy and plant flowers.

Many people think Mother's Day is a good day to plant, but it depends on where you live and the weather.

You’ll hear this one A LOT.

I heard it where I grew up in the Midwest, and I hear it where I live in Colorado.

Mother’s Day is the day the squirrels come dancing out of trees, and a chorus of robins starts singing, and gardeners emerge from hibernation like hungry bears. 🙂 I get it. It’s hard to resist planting when we’ve all been cooped up for so long!!

I’m sure there are some places where Mother’s Day works as a reliable planting date. And there may be years when Mother’s Day works where you live too.

But there are a few tricky things about using Mother’s Day as a gardening guideline:

  • One, the date for Mother’s Day changes every year, from early-May to mid-May.
  • Two, it really depends on your weather, which can be unpredictable in the Intermountain West. In recent years in Colorado, for example, we’ve been getting chilly blasts later and later in the spring. Denver has gotten snow on or after Mother’s Day in 7 of the last 15 years!!

You may be thinking, “But, Ann, I heard Mother’s Day at the store.”

Yep, that happens.

Keep in mind that stores have a pony in the race. If you get flowers on Mother’s Day, those flowers happen to die and you have to buy new flowers, they come out ahead.

The bottom line?

While it depends on where you live, Mother’s Day is often a touch early for planting summer flowers in many parts of the Intermountain West — including much of the Front Range of Colorado.

Rather than using Mother’s Day as your planting guide, it’s more helpful to plant your summer flowers when:

  • Your chances for frost are really low
  • Your temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees

For example, in the Front Range of Colorado, this is often late May.
Is Mother's Day a good planting day? Many places in Colorado and similar states can still get frosts, so it may be a little early to plant annuals.

Can you buy your summer flowers by Mother’s Day?

Absolutely!

Just keep in mind that you’ll need to protect your plant babies if we get chilly temps, frosts, freezes or snow.

It’s going to take a little more effort.

Related topics that may interest you:

Heat tolerant annuals for the semi-arid west

Where to Learn About Waterwise Plants for Colorado, Utah & Similar Western States

Where to Learn About Waterwise Plants for Colorado, Utah & Similar Western States

Looking for waterwise plants? You don’t have to plant cacti or turn your yard into a desert! There are lots of beautiful, low water plants for Colorado, Utah, Idaho, and the semi-arid West. They just may not be the flowers and shrubs you know from other regions of the country.

If you’d like to learn about waterwise plants for Colorado or a similar western state, here are 7 of my fave websites + books. All of these resources have good photos of waterwise plants, so it’s easier to picture what the plants will look like.

PlantSelect.org

Plant Select - a source of waterwise plants for Colorado

Image credit: PlantSelect.org

Plant Select tests and introduces waterwise plants inspired by the Rocky Mountain region. They’re a nonprofit collaboration between Colorado State University, Denver Botanic Gardens and the western green industry.

Their website has several helpful tools. For example, in their Plants section, you can look for plants by perennials, shrubs, trees, etc. There is also a Solutions section where you can find hummingbird plants, butterfly plants, native plants, etc.

Plant Select | Search tool for waterwise plants

Image credit: PlantSelect.org | Find a Plant page

Another helpful tool is their Plant Finder (above). You can search for waterwise plants based on various criteria, including how big the plants will get. On other web pages, you can look up where plants are from (their native origins) and how much irrigation they need, if any.

This is a good website to dig into!

ConservationGardenPark.org

Want to learn about waterwise plants in Colorado? Take inspiration from Utah's "Find Waterwise Plants" search tool.

Image credit: ConservationGardenPark.org | Find Waterwise Plants page

Conservation Garden Park is a waterwise demonstration park in northern Utah. Utah residents can visit it to see examples of beautiful landscapes that are low maintenance and low water. And yay for us, Conservation Garden Park has created a big database that showcases the plants in their landscapes.

Utah faces many of the same gardening challenges we have in Colorado: heat, low moisture, tricky soils, etc. This is a great website to explore if you want to learn about waterwise plants.

One of my favorite things about this website is that they include photos of the plants through all the seasons—not just summer. This can be helpful if you want your yard to look good in the fall, winter and spring too!

WaterwisePlants.org

Image credit: Colorado Springs Utilities (WaterwisePlants.org) | Find a Plant page

Colorado Springs Utilities has created waterwise demonstration landscapes that are open to the public. Similar to Conservation Garden Park above, they have a website that showcases the plants in their demonstration landscapes. You can search for waterwise plants using different criteria. Here are a few of their website features I find helpful:

  • You can search for plants by height. I like this feature when looking for shrubs. It’s a good way to make sure you aren’t picking a plant that will outgrow your space.
  • They have “performance” notes for each plant. Be sure to look at those! They contain practical tips. For example, I was looking at a native grass called Prairie Dropseed. They noted that Prairie Dropseed has performed very well in their landscapes. However, it’s a favorite among rabbits. So, if you have rabbits, plan accordingly or skip this grass. (Helpful!)

HighCountryGardens.com

A search tool to find waterwise plants for Colorado

Image credit: HighCountryGardens.com | Plant Finder page

High Country Gardens is an online retailer of sustainable and waterwise plants. Many of their plants are well suited for Colorado and the semi-arid West. They have a Plant Finder tool that can help you discover plants you like, including categories called “Colorado Plants,” “High Elevation Plants” and “Western Plants.”

When I visit their website, I often use their search bar at the top of their website. I use it to look up specific waterwise plants.

If you’re a visual person, their website has great plant photos.

“Waterwise Plants for Sustainable Gardens” (Book)

Waterwise Plants for Sustainable Gardens by Lauren Springer

This is one of my go-to books for waterwise plants in Colorado and the semi-arid West. It’s filled with photos and helpful tips that can be used whether you’re a beginner, intermediate or advanced gardener.

Pro tip: This book contains waterwise plants for different parts of the West, including the West Coast. As you go through the book, make sure the flowers you like match your plant hardiness zone. A plant hardiness zone tells you whether a plant is likely to survive the coldest winter temperatures that are expected in your area. Some of the plants in the book are better suited for parts of the West with warmer winters.

Native Plant Society Websites

Colorado native plants are often waterwise plants (but not always)

Native plants are plants that have evolved naturally in a region. (The European settlers didn’t introduce them.) Native plants provide great habitats and food sources for birds, insects and wildlife. Many western native plants can tolerate drought and/or don’t need much water. (Though, not all!)

To find native plants for your state, here is a list of native plant societies for the intermountain region. Many have plant databases on their websites:

“Pretty Tough Plants” (Book)

Pretty Tough Plants book by Plant Select - examples of drought-plants, shrubs and trees for Colorado and the semi-arid West

In addition to having a website, Plant Select has a great book called “Pretty Tough Plants.” I refer to this book all the time. It’s another book that is user-friendly for gardeners of different levels.

This book is no longer in print, so if you can find a copy on Amazon, snag it.

I hope these websites and books help you learn about waterwise plants, so you can create big beauty for less effort. And cheers to using less water!

Related tips that may interest you:

Guide: 10 of the Best Long-Blooming Flowers for the Semi-Arid West

“Help! I Can’t Find the Flowers I Want at the Store”

“Help! I Can’t Find the Flowers I Want at the Store”

Have you ever had trouble finding the flowers you want at the store?

You aren’t alone!

Figuring out which flowers to plant and tracking them down in a garden center can get overwhelming quickly. And if even if you don’t feel overwhelmed, it can be frustrating to want a certain plant and not be able to find it.

So, if this sounds like you, please know, this is normal.

In this tip, let’s chat about how to make it easier to find the flowers you want.
How to choose flowers when you have so many choices

What can you do if you have ideas for flowers, but you can’t find them at your garden center?

First, I’ll say that some western plants ARE hard to find.

Often, though, it can be a matter of where you’re looking for them.

The big box stores are convenient for buying flowers, no question.

But they tend to have a limited selection of flowers. Plus, they often carry plants that are better suited for other regions of the country.

Yep, let me say that again: A lot of their selection isn’t a great fit for gardens in the semi-arid, tricky soils West.
Big box stores have convenient garden centers, but their selection can be limited

So instead, my suggestion is to look up local, independent garden centers in your area.

These are local stores that only sell plants, flowers, gardening tools and related products.

If you’ve only shopped at the big box stores for your flowers and you don’t know where to find local, independent garden center, no worries!

Search for:

“Garden center in [your town or metro area]”

“Plant nursery in [your town or metro area]”

You can call these local garden centers on the phone to ask if they have certain flowers OR you can visit in person.

These local stores are more likely to have a wider selection of flower plants that grow better in our region.

Fair warning, because these garden centers usually have a lot of plants, they can be a little intimidating on your first visit.

(Just being honest with you.)

But every time you go, you’ll get more comfortable.

And the great news is, they typically have knowledgeable staff members who can help you.
Local, independent garden centers have employees who can help you find the flower plants you want.

It’s 100% okay to ask questions.

When you arrive at your garden center, ask if they carry the flower you’re looking for. If they don’t have it, feel free to ask:

“Can you recommend a similar flower?”

Share what you’re trying to do.

For example, let them know if you want to attract butterflies … or if you’d like plants that deer are less likely to eat.

If the person you’re talking to doesn’t know the answer, ask if there’s someone available who may know the answer.

(There’s always a wise and scrappy gardener tucked away somewhere.)

To better help you, they may ask you a little about your garden.

Don’t worry! You don’t have to be a master gardener to have a conversation with them. They just want to help.

You may want to snap a few photos of your garden or yard on your phone before you go to the store. This makes it easier for them to picture your space and your existing flowers.

Okay, so that’s option one.

But it’s possible you may not find what you want locally because not every store carries every plant.

In that case, you have a second option.

There are online plant and seed companies too… like Zappos for flower plants.

There are online garden stores and seed companies too. You can buy plants online.

You may be able to buy the flower plant you want online, and they’ll send it to you.

Some get shoes in the mail, others get flower plants… 🙂

Want a few examples of online garden stores?

  • High Country Gardens is an example of an online garden store that specializes in flower plants for the intermountain west.
  • Botanical Interests is an example of a seed company that offers many western flower seeds. They’re based in Colorado. Depending on the flower (or veggie) you want to grow, you may plant seeds in the spring, in the fall or even during the winter.

Often times, these online retailers have unusual flowers that are tricky to find in stores.

Another option: You can choose a “pre-planned garden.”

Would you like to create a beautiful, western-friendly garden WITHOUT having to figure out which flowers work best and find them in a store?

If yes, you may want to check out pre-planned flowers gardens.

They’re an awesome way to create a beautiful flower garden without all the research and hunting for plants.

And bonus, many of these flower gardens don’t need a lot of water.

Related topics that may interest you:

Guide: 10 of the Best Long-Blooming Flowers for the Semi-Arid West

“How Do I Attract Bees and Butterflies to My Garden?”

“How Do I Attract Bees and Butterflies to My Garden?”

10 tips to create a pollinator garden in Colorado, Utah and similar states

Do you want to attract bees and butterflies to your garden? Me too!

These wonderful pollinators need just a few, basic survival elements:

  • Food (from nectar-rich flowers)
  • Water sources
  • Cover (shelter)
  • Places to raise and feed their young
  • Protection from pesticides

Here are 10 tips to create a pollinator garden that not only attracts bees and butterflies, but also offers an environment where they can thrive.

1) Plant a variety of flowers that bloom at different times—from spring to fall.

That way, you’ll give your bees and butterflies a constant source of food and shelter.

Typically, pollinators can find food sources during the summer. (It’s easy to find flowers that bloom in June and July!) So, if you’re prioritizing, focus on adding flowers, flowering shrubs or flowering trees that bloom in the spring, late summer or fall. This is when food can be scarce for bees.

At the end of this article, you’ll find good plant lists for butterflies and bees.To attract bees to your garden, plant early spring flowers, like crocuses.
Allium is an example of a good spring flower for bees if you're creating a pollinator-friendly garden.

2) Include native plants in your garden, when possible.

There are approximately 1000 native bee species in Colorado and about 1000 native bee species in Utah.

Native bees tend to like native plants.

Native plants have been around for a long time—since before Europeans settled in North America. They’re “ecologically adapted” to your area, just like your native bees are. They’ve evolved together. These plants are very appealing to pollinators, especially bees and butterflies that have had their habitat destroyed by urban development.

Some bees will only gather nectar and pollen from specific native plants—like Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosa), Globe Mallow (Sphaeralcea munroana) or Sunflowers (Helianthus).
To attract native bees, grow native plants like Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosa) or Globe Mallow (Sphaeralcea munroana).

Butterflies can prefer specific plants too.

For example, Monarch butterflies will only use milkweed plant as a “host” for their young. A host plant is where they lay their eggs and the young caterpillars feed. Other butterflies have their own preferences for plants to host their babies. Monarch butterflies use Milkweed plants as hosts for their young. Add this plant to your pollinator garden!

Despite their growing popularity, native plants can be tricky to find at some garden centers.

The best places to look for native plants are typically: local independent garden centers, online retailers, native plant sales from nonprofit organizations, and native seed companies.

3) Plant flowers with different bloom shapes, sizes and heights.

If you want to attract bees and butterflies to your garden, make sure you have variety in your flowers!

Butterflies:

Butterflies tend to like coneflower-shaped flower heads and ice cream-shaped flower heads.

Butterflies won’t climb into a flower. Instead, they prefer flowers where they can perch with a 360-degree view—ideally, in an open spot with a lot of sunlight.
Butterflies are attracted to flowers with coneflower shapes and ice cream shapes.

Bees:

Bees’ favorite flower colors are blue, yellow, bright white or ultra-violet. They’re drawn to nectar-rich flowers with an easy-to-access supply of nectar and pollen.

As my ecology instructor used to say, bees like flowers “with landing platforms.” They also like tubular flowers.
Bees like nectar-rich flowes where nectar and pollen are easy to access.

Single-bloom flowers are best.

Avoid “double-bloom flowers” (aka, double flowers). What the heck is a double-bloom flower? It’s a flower with extra flower petals. Here are examples with Zinnias and Dahlias:
Examples of single bloom vs double bloom flowers - Avoid double flowers with pollinators, like bees, because the nectar and pollen are less available

Double-bloom flowers may look beautiful, but they make it harder for bees to get to the nectar and pollen. (And sometimes, these flowers don’t even have nectar and pollen!)

As far as flower size goes, there is no one-size-fits-all for bees. It depends on the bee. Some larger, native bees prefer larger flower heads. Other bees are drawn to very small flower heads.

Again, variety is key!

4) Plant flowers in groups (clumps of 3+ flowers), rather than individual plants.

For one thing, this can look natural and attractive.

But it also can be helpful for bees like honeybees. They like to gather nectar and pollen from the same flowers at one time. When you plant in groups, you’re more likely to attract honeybees—and keep them happy. You’ll help them focus their energy on gathering food.

5) Include a shallow water source in your garden.

Bees need water. To give your bees a safe place to drink:

  • Create a shallow pool with an old plate, flowerpot saucer, upside-down frisbee or shallow bird bath.
  • Place objects—like pebbles, rocks and twigs—in the water, so your pollinators have a place to stand without drowning.

Bees also will drink water from your sprinkler heads or your drip system heads.

Add a shallow water source to your garden to attract bees.

So, what about butterflies?

Adult butterflies like sweet liquids. They’re drawn to nectar, rotting fruit and other sweet liquids.

Male butterflies do like shallow mud puddles, though. While the reason isn’t fully known, it’s believed that dissolved minerals in the water may be good for butterflies.

Caterpillars primarily get their liquids from the plants they feed upon.

6) Make sure you have a sunny area that’s protected from the wind.

In western states like Colorado and Utah, we can get wind gusts that make it feel like our houses are coming apart at the seams!

Adult butterflies like to feed in sunny spots that are open… but also protected from the wind. So, if you can create a wind break in your garden, that’s ideal for your pollinators, particularly your butterflies.

Liatris is a flower that attracts Monarch butterflies in Colorado and similar western states.

7) Cut your flower garden back in the spring, rather than in the fall.

If possible, this means leaving some natural debris—like fallen leaves and plant stems—in your flower garden over winter.

Around 70% of Colorado’s native bees nest in the ground, and the other 30% nest in cavities, like hollow plant stems. When you wait until spring to trim back your flower garden, you provide good, undisturbed nesting grounds for bees.

You keep their nests safe and protected.

I know we’re chatting about bees and butterflies in this article, but it’s worth noting that your winter garden also can be a big hit with birds. Dried flower heads offer good food sources for them. And they can take shelter in your garden.
To create shelter for bees, wait until late spring to cut down your flower garden.

8) Gives bees shelter in your soil (dirt).

Did you know that 90% of native bees are solitary bees? They live alone, rather than in a colony.

And as I mentioned earlier, most native bees nest in the ground. To create a bee-friendly environment in your soil:

  • Avoid using landscape fabrics. They keep bees from being able to tunnel into the ground.
  • Avoid thick mulch in select places in your garden. Mulch is a material you put on top of your soil—like bark or wood chips. It offers a lot of benefits for plants, but deep layers of mulch can make it difficult for bees to nest in the ground. You may want to selectively choose a few spots where you use a thin layer of mulch or no mulch at all.
  • Avoid tilling. Tilling is when you extensively turn your soil over until it’s all broken up. There was a time when tilling was a popular garden practice. However, it’s fallen out of favor in home gardens because it can create soil structure problems and destroy beneficial organisms. (It messes up the health of your soil, which can lead to problems in your plants.) In this case, avoid tilling because it can destroy your bees’ nests and/or kill bees or their young.
  • Avoid using overhead sprinklers during the day. Instead, use drip irrigation (small irrigation lines that run to the plants). This way, the mama bee will be able to find her nest after a day of foraging. Overhead sprinklers can accidentally destroy the entrances with mud when the bees are away, says the Utah State University Extension.

9) Don’t use pesticides in your landscape.

If you want to attract bees and butterflies to your garden, avoid using chemicals to treat your lawn or plants.

And yep, this means you wouldn’t use pesticides for:

  • Treating the weeds in your lawn or garden
  • Fertilizing your lawn or your garden plants
  • Battling Japanese beetles

The chemicals can transfer to bees and other pollinators when they land on the plants or feed from them.

(If you have no other alternative, use the mildest treatment you can. And spray when bees and butterflies are less active, like at dusk. Don’t spray during the day when pollinators are gathering food!)
Gaillardia (aka blanket flower) is a good flower for bees.

10) Buy from bee-safe garden centers and growers.

Many plants sold at garden centers have been treated with “neonicotinoids”—a type of pesticide—early in their life cycle. This pesticide use is very common.

This pesticide is toxic to insects, including bees. It can stay inside plant tissues for a long time, leading to problems for pollinators that visit those plants, from impairment to death.

Some garden centers have pledged not to sell plants that have been grown with these chemicals. Here’s where to buy plants that are safe for bees in Colorado and the West.To create a pollinator friendly garden, buy plants that haven't been treated with pesticides.

Want more info on how to attract bees and butterflies?

Check out these resources:

Related topics that may interest you:

Guide: 10 of the Best Long-Blooming Flowers for the Semi-Arid West

Columbine Flowers: An Early Summer Flower to Attract Hummingbirds

Columbine Flowers: An Early Summer Flower to Attract Hummingbirds

Who else loves Columbine flowers?

(I have both my hands up.)

You’ll see Columbine flowers growing along alpine hiking trails in the Rocky Mountains… and in western gardens.

When I see them on mountain trails, I want to turn into Julie Andrews at the start of The Sound of Music, twirling around with my arms in the air, singing about the hills being alive. They make me giddy every time I see them.
Rocky Mountain Columbines bloom on a mountain in Colorado or Utah

Columbine flowers are perennials. This means they come back every year.

If you’re like me, you may think of Rocky Mountain Columbines first. They’re the bluish-purple and white flowers you’ll often see on mountain trails (like the ones pictured above). Rocky Mountain Columbines grow well in moist mountain meadows.

But you can find Columbine flowers in different types and colors.

There’s even a type of Columbine that can handle our hot, semi-arid summers at lower elevations in the intermountain west. (Scroll down for the scoop!)

Typically, Columbine flowers bloom in May and June at our lower elevations in states like Colorado.

And at our higher elevations, these flowers usually bloom in June and July.

Columbines are a WONDERFUL hummingbird magnet.

If you ever get a chance to visit the Betty Ford Alpine Garden in Vail, Colorado during the summer, make a beeline to the Columbine flowers.

If they’re in bloom, you’ll often be able to watch the hummingbirds blissfully zip from flower to flower.

It’s heavenly.

Tip: If you want to plant flowers that attract hummingbirds to your garden, add Columbines to your list.

Happy plants tend to live longer, so let’s chat about how to keep your Columbines happy.

The big thing is planting your Columbines in the right place in your garden.

Our summers can get really hot in our lower elevations in western states like Colorado and Utah. If you live someplace hot, your Columbines will likely prefer spots in your garden that have “partial shade” or “shade.” (A helpful guideline is 4 hours or less of sunlight. Avoid planting them in afternoon sunlight, which can be too hot.)

For example, you may want to plant them in the shade of a leafy tree.

They also like it when your dirt (which we’ll call “soil”) is moist and drains well.

To help keep your soil moist, it helps to put a layer of “mulch” (like wood chips or mini-bark) on top. You can find mulch at your local garden center.

But there IS a type of Columbine that can handle sunnier spots…

And it’s a much better fit for our gardens in the hot, semi-arid parts of the intermountain west!

If you’re looking for a Columbine flower that grows well in sunshine, ask at the garden center about Denver Gold® Columbine.

This plant’s official botanical name is: Aquilegia chrysantha ‘Denver Gold’.

Denver Gold® is a showy, yellow Columbine that flourishes in sunny locations.

It grows well in our tricky western soils up to elevations of about 9,000 feet.

In the photo above, you’ll see Denver Gold® Columbines (the tall, yellow flowers) planted next to purple flowers known as bearded irises.

Isn’t this a pretty combo?

Denver Gold® Columbines give you beautiful yellow flowers in May and June in our lower elevations. And if you trim off the dead blooms, you may get more flowers later in the summer as well.

It’s native to the canyon lands in the Southwest.

In the photo above, Denver Gold® Columbines (the yellow flowers) are planted alongside a bluish-purple flower known as Salvia (Salvia sylvestris ‘May Night’).

Another showy combo!

If you live in another region of the country…

Ask at your local garden center whether Columbines will grow well where you live.

Related tips that may interest you:

Guide: 10 of the Best Long-Blooming Flowers for the Semi-Arid West

6 Ways to Protect Your Flowers From Frosts and Freezes

6 Ways to Protect Your Flowers From Frosts and Freezes

You know you’ve entered the “joys of western gardening club” when…

It feels like summer one day… and the next day you’re bracing yourself for frosts, freezes and snow.

(I’m not crying. I have something in my eye.)

If you’d like your summer annuals — your one-season flowers — to stay alive, it’s helpful to find ways to protect them from Mother Nature’s cold snaps.

So, in this article, you’ll find 6 ways to help protect your tender flowers from frosts and freezes.

You’ll also find a tip to help protect your trees and shrubs, which can be vulnerable to sudden cold spells too.

Protecting your sensitive plants is about finding ways to keep them warm.

When you see your neighbors frantically covering their tender flowers, what they’re trying to do is keep their plants warm.

If you can keep your plants just 5 degrees warmer than the cold conditions around them, it often can make a big difference for your plants.Frost can occur at 36 degrees F, so it's important to protect tender flowers.

As you look for ways to protect your flowers, ask yourself:

“Is what I’m doing going to help generate or retain heat around my plants?”

If it’s not, skip it and look for another option.

Here are 6 ways to keep your flowers warm:

1) Thoroughly water the dirt (aka, “soil”) around your flowers.

If watering feels counter-intuitive when we’re talking about freezing temperatures, I’m with you.

But watering your soil before a freeze can actually help warm your plants. And remember, heat is the goal here.

Damp soil can keep the surface air around your flowers up to 5 degrees warmer than surrounding temperatures.

Why?

Because moist soil retains heat better than dry soil. It can warm up during the day and help offer heat at night.

Pro tip: It helps to water during the day. That way, the soil has time to warm up, and any water that splashes on your plants has time to dry before temperatures drop. (Wet leaves, flowers and stems freeze more quickly than dry ones.) When you’re done watering, be sure to unscrew your hose, so you avoid any issues with pipes freezing and breaking. Because we’re trying to remove headaches, not create them, am I right?

2) Move your pots of flowers to a warmer, protected area.

I know some flowerpots are too heavy to move, but move what you can.

A mudroom or an attached garage can work well as a temporary holding space when temperatures dip.Move your plants to a mudroom or an attached garage to help keep them warm.

If you can’t bring your containers inside, even moving them to a dry, covered area on a porch or deck may help.

I would try to put your containers right next to your home out of the wind. Look for a spot where the walls may radiate some heat. Depending on how cold it’s going to get, you also may want to add on tip #3 below.

Keep in mind, warm air rises and cold air sinks, so avoid moving your pots to the low spots in your yard.

3) Build a “tent” around your flowers.

This one sounds a little complicated, but let’s keep it simple.

Here’s all you’re trying to do. You’re covering your flowers with a cloth fabric to keep the heat in, but you’re staking the fabric up (the best you can) so it doesn’t touch your plants.Frost flower protection: A cotton sheet tent over tender flower plants in preparation for a frost and freezing temperatures

The photo above may look like at an attempt at a spooky Halloween display, but it’s actually an impromptu tent for my cosmos flowers.

To create a tent, you can use:

  • For your frame: Metal rods, tomato cages, lawn furniture, shepherd’s hooks for hanging flower pots, etc. Get creative!
  • For your cover: Woven cloth fabrics like old bed sheets, pillow cases, towels, a lightweight picnic blanket… basically, the items you want to donate from your linen closet. You also can use “garden fabrics,” like a commercial-grade landscape fabric or heavier types of “floating row covers” (which are fabrics used in vegetable gardening). I would look for these garden fabrics at local, independent garden centers and online.
  • For your clips: You can use safety pins, binder clips from your office, plastic clips, etc.

If you want to keep it really simple, I’ve given you a pre-made tent option at the end of this section.

So, why does using cloth fabric matter?

It all comes back to heat. Woven cloth fabrics offer better insulation than plastic materials. They don’t conduct the cold like plastic does.

Ideally, you want to extend the tent all the way to the ground.

I’d extend your tent all the way to the ground (even over a flowerpot), so you can capture the heat from the ground. Pin or clip the fabric together to keep cold air out and warm air in.

If you have gaps in your tent, you’re losing heat.

If possible, try not to let the fabric touch a plant:

  • This helps keep the warm air circulating around your entire plant.
  • And in some cases, if wet fabric touches your plant, you may accidentally cause the damage you’re trying to prevent.

If this sounds like too much work, there are pre-made frost protection tents for your plants.

You can see an example in the photo below.

Pre-made tents made of commercial-grade landscape fabric to protect plants during frosts and freezes

Search online for phrases like:

  • “Plant protection tents” or
  • “Pop-up plant protectors”

These tents quickly pop up. They’re easy to use. And because they flatten up when you’re done, they’re easy to store.

4) Avoid using plastic sheets to cover your plants, unless you have no other option.

Why?

Because plastic doesn’t have the insulating properties of woven fabric. Plus, if plastic is touching your plants, it can conduct the cold and contribute to the damage you’re trying to prevent.

But if you don’t have other options, make it work, baby! It can be better than nothing. Just prop it up, so it doesn’t touch your plants.

5) Place empty containers over tender plants to trap warmth from the ground around your plants.

You can use boxes, buckets, recycling bins, garbage cans, empty flowerpots and other containers. These devices can work well if you’re going to get snow because they’re unlikely to collapse under the weight.

Just remove these covers during the day when it warms up.You can use garbage cans and buckets as frost covers to protect your flowers from frosts and freezes.

6) Get creative with ways to generate heat around your flowers.

You may see your neighbors filling milk jugs with hot water or placing warm bricks near their plants. Both options can create warmth in the shelters you’re placing around your plants. It’s like a little campfire for your plants.

All these methods should work well for BRIEF temperature dips.

But if you’re going to get an arctic blast (especially one that lasts a few days), you may need a stronger heat source.

Or, you may want to try doubling up on the methods above.

Do you have to do anything when a frost or freeze is in the forecast?

If you’re reading this article in the fall, nope, you don’t have to do anything.

You can sit back and see what Mother Nature throws at you, especially if you’re ready for your flower season to be over. But if you’d like your flowers to last a little longer, it helps to protect your plants.

In the spring, it’s a good idea protect your newly-purchased flowers, especially your summer annuals. These are your tender flowers that grow for one season only and don’t like frost.

That way, you don’t have to buy replacement flowers!

Let’s chat for a sec about your trees and shrubs.

At our lower elevations in states like Colorado, we can get big temperature swings that are really hard on our trees and shrubs.

When temperatures plummet in the fall, your trees and shrubs don’t get the chance to ease into dormancy.

These plants haven’t had a chance to gradually turn the water in their veins into “antifreeze” yet.

Even when we aren’t facing big temperature swings, our trees are often drought-stressed.

And “stressed” is not the way you want them entering winter!

It can help to give your trees and shrubs a deep, soaking water before a freeze too.

If you have a newly-planted tree or shrub, water the root ball area.

Otherwise, soak the ground around the outer circumference zone of your tree (out where the branches of leaves end), rather than soaking the trunk area.

This outer area is known as your tree’s “drip line,” and it’s where your tree’s roots are actively absorbing water.

Going from a beautiful garden to a freezing mess stinks, but it’s part of gardening life in western states like Colorado, Wyoming and Utah.

If you think it’s tough to be a gardener here, remember it’s even tougher to be a plant!

But you’ve got this!

If you want to protect your tender flowers and keep them alive, I hope these tips help you feel more confident in what you’re trying to do.

Related topics that may interest you:

How to make a winter garden more beautiful

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