by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Jul 6, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Gardening for Pollinators, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Want to add a splash of color to a late-summer garden?
Dig into some of the best flowers for late summer in Colorado—whether you live in Denver, Colorado Springs, Grand Junction or another Colorado town!
These late-summer flowers bloom in August, September and some into October. They’re ideal if you’d like to:
- Add beautiful color and texture that will have neighbors taking notice.
- Attract pollinators to your garden, like hummingbirds and bees.
- Reduce the amount you have to water. (Yay for less work—and less water! They’re all drought tolerant plants.)
These plants are perennials, so they should return for multiple years. They prefer sunny spots that get 6+ hours of sunlight per day.
If you live at a higher elevation in Colorado (or a similar western state), your growing season may not be long and warm enough for these late-summer and early-fall flowers. But good news, you can find a list of flowers for mountain gardens from the Colorado State University Extension.
Let’s jump in!
The best flowers for late summer in Colorado include…
Sunset Hyssop
Agastache rupestris
Hummingbirds adore Sunset Hyssop. This late summer flower is Grand Central Station for hummingbirds. You may notice butterflies, bees and sphinx moths visiting it too. And bonus, this plant is typically deer and rabbit resistant, meaning Bambi will likely visit your neighbors’ gardens first.
Sunset Hyssop is one of the more reliable hyssops in Colorado when it’s planted in sunny, well-drained locations. Translation: It has a good track record of returning when other hyssops may not! Its salmon-orange flowers tend to be the showiest in August, but you should see blooms into fall.
Sunset Hyssop is native to the mountains of the Southwest. Zones 5-10.
Not familiar with “zones?” Learn what a hardiness zone is and how to find your zone here.
Dakota Sunshine Maximilian’s Sunflower
Helianthus maximiliani ‘Dakota Sunshine’
If you like sunflowers or you simply like daisy-like flowers, this may be one of the best flowers for late summer in your garden! Dakota Sunshine gets spires of showy yellow blooms that grow up tall stems. It’s a drought-tolerant perennial that can reach 5’ to 6’ tall, so it’s ideal for adding height to the back of a garden. Native to the prairies, Dakota Sunshine blooms in August into early September. It’s a favorite of bees when it’s blooming. When it goes to seed later in the fall, the seedheads attract birds. Zones 3-8.
If you’d like a version of this plant that blooms in the fall, look for Maximilian Sunflower. It grows even taller—often 6′ to 8′ in height—and typically blooms in September and October in western states like Colorado.
I found Dakota Sunshine at High Country Gardens. You also may be able to find these plants at local, independent garden centers.
Autumn Joy Sedum
Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’
So many reasons to love Autumn Joy Sedum, so little time! This perennial has beautiful pink flowers that appear in late summer and last into fall. Honeybees love the flowers.
Autumn Joy has thick leaves that add great structure and textural contrast to a garden. It tends to be a longer-lived perennial, coming back for many years. It adapts well to our tricky Colorado weather and soils (dirt). And during the winter, its seed heads can catch snow, adding interest to your winter garden too. Zones 4-11.
Meadow Blazing Star Liatris (aka, Rocky Mountain Gayfeather)
Liatris ligulistylus
When I’m strolling through the Denver Botanic Gardens in August and September, this is the plant I usually hear people asking about. It’s an attention getter.
Blazing Star Liatris sends up vertical shoots of rosy-purple flowers that look like fuzzy buttons. The narrow, vertical shape of this plant offers a nice contrast to round-shaped plants in late summer gardens. And its flowers are extremely attractive to adult butterflies, including Monarchs. In my garden, Blazing Star Liatris also attracts native bees—particularly bumblebees.
If you see the words, Liatris punctata (Dotted Blazing Star) or Liatris ligulistylus (Meadow Blazing Star), on the plant tag, your plant is native to Colorado and the Central Plains. Zones 4-9 and 3-8.
If you see Liatris spicata (Dense Blazing Star) on the plant tag, it’s native to the eastern United States. It tends to prefer more moisture.
Goldenrod
Solidago
Many Goldenrods put on a show with their vibrant, golden flowers in late summer and early fall. There are many species of Goldenrod that are native to different parts of North America, and you can find them in a variety of heights. Look for Goldenrods that bloom in August and September.
Goldenrod flowers are extremely attractive to a wide variety of pollinators, including bees and butterflies. In my garden, tiny native bees love these plants. Zones 4-8.
Goldenrod has been blamed for seasonal allergies like hay fever, but this is a garden myth that has been disproven. The allergy-causing culprits are typically wind-pollinated plants like ragweed, which happen to bloom at the same time.
Little Bluestem Grass
Schizachyrium scoparium
Ornamental grasses are in their glory in late summer and early fall. One of my faves is Little Bluestem.
It has a column-like shape rather than a round, mounded shape, so it fits in well in small urban gardens, as well as spacious western landscapes.
Native to Colorado (and the prairies of much of the United States), many varieties of this blue-green grass turn a red color in the fall, making it a wonderful accent to other plants. During winter, it can take on a bronze hue with light seed heads, so it can add colorful interest to your winter garden too. Zones 3-8.
Ruby Muhly Grass
Muhlenbergia reverchonii
If you’re looking for a late summer flower that’s a showstopper for your Colorado garden, check out Ruby Muhly Grass. It has airy, pink seed heads that dance in the wind and catch the late summer light. It’s ethereal! And it’s another ornamental grass that looks beautiful in the fall and through the winter.
Ruby Muhly Grass grows in a mounded shape, up to a few feet wide.
If you live in the Denver area, you can see beautiful examples of Ruby Muhly Grass at the Denver Botanic Gardens. Zones 5-10.
Blue Mist Spirea
Caryopteris x clandonensis
Blue Mist Spirea is an easy-to-grow shrub that’s covered with blue flowers in late summer. It often blooms for up to 8 weeks during August and September. This shrub is a pollinator MAGNET! It attracts a variety of bees and butterflies in late summer—when many other shrubs and perennials are done blooming. And bonus, deer and rabbits tend to skip it.
Use Blue Mist Spirea to add structural interest to your garden, as a border plant or in a hedge. It grows to about 3 to 4’ wide and tall. Zones 5-8.
Dwarf Rabbitbrush (aka, Baby Blue Rabbitbrush)
Ericameria (Chrysothamnus) nauseosus var. nauseosus
Dwarf rabbitbrush offers vibrant, late summer flowers that attract native bees and butterflies.
As the name suggests, dwarf rabbitbrush is a mini version of rabbitbrush. It grows up to 2′ tall and 3′ wide. It’s native to Colorado’s Front Range. It has dense, silver-blue foliage and keeps its shape well. It lights up with golden flowers in late summer and fall in Colorado, often from September to November.
Rabbitbrush can spread its seeds like a fairy godmother tossing pixie dust, so be prepared to pull some seedlings. This shrub benefits from a light shearing in the late fall or early spring to increase next season’s flowers. Zones 4-9.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Garden design Ideas, Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Reader note: I first published this article in January 2022, but the content is still relevant and timely!
I feel strange saying, “garden trends,” because it implies a fad.
Here today, gone tomorrow—like paint colors in a home or trendy flower colors.
I’m not here to tell you that violet is the new purple in your garden.
Instead, think of these 5 western garden trends as where landscaping is going in Colorado, Utah and the intermountain west.
These are movements that will shape our gardens today—and well into the future. Use these garden trends to inspire you as you think about your western landscape and the plants you choose.
#1: Naturalism is in.
When you think of a traditional garden, what comes to mind? Many people think of formal gardens like they have on the East Coast and Midwest.
Tidy rows of plants. Shaped hedges. Lots of symmetry. (You know, like the photos in magazines.)
But there’s a trend to create gardens that reflect more of our natural environment.
With “naturalism,” there’s a relaxed ebb and flow to the plants.
These gardens are reminiscent of what you may see in nature, like in a high plains prairie or in a mountain meadow.
If you’d like to embrace a more natural look in your garden in Colorado, Utah or a similar state, here are a few ways to start:
- Let go of symmetry.
- Plant your flowers in drifts or clumps. (This is good for pollinators too!)
- Intermingle low-growing plants (like groundcovers) among larger, structural plants.
- Integrate parts of the natural landscape into your garden design, such as boulders, rocks or tree trunks.
- Choose plants that thrive in our tricky western conditions. (More on this below!)
#2: Pollinator gardens are growing in popularity.
Bring on the bees, butterflies, birds and more! People are taking an interest in pollinator gardens—which is helpful with many types of pollinators at risk.
I used to think, “But I already have bees in my garden.”
I didn’t really get it.
What I’ve learned in recent years it that not all bees were created equal.
Commonplace bees are becoming more common, while rare bees are becoming more rare.
Some bees are generalists. They’ll seek nectar and pollen from a variety of plants. They aren’t picky.
But we also have specialist bees, and some are rare. They tend to prefer a very narrow palette of plants.
The same principle is true of other pollinators.
For example, Monarch butterflies use a specific plant (Milkweed — aka, Asclepias) to host and feed their young. That’s it! Just one type of plant.
The idea behind a pollinator garden is that you create an environment that attracts and nurtures a variety of species, including the rare ones.
Biodiversity, baby!
Want to create a pollinator-friendly garden? Check out: “How do I attract bees and butterflies to my garden?”
#3: Gardening with native plants is getting lots of buzz.
For many decades, if you’d walk into a western garden center, you’d find perennials (the flowers that come back each year) that were ideal for high-moisture regions of the U.S., like the Midwest and East Coast.
Not so great for our semi-arid gardens in Colorado, Utah and the intermountain West!
Today, there’s a big push to include “native plants” in western landscapes. Native plants have been around for a looooong time—usually before European settlement.
Native plants are “ecologically adapted” to where you live. They can tolerate your soil (dirt) and local climate. They tend to be resistant to disease and troublesome insects. They create a sense of place. They feel like the West and reflect where we live.
And most importantly, native plants are excellent plants for native bees and other pollinators—especially pollinators that are in decline. They’ve evolved together.
TIP: If you’d like to learn about plants that are native to where you live, visit your state’s Native Plant Society website. To find it, search for: [your state] native plant society.
#4: “Waterwise” gardens are smart gardens.
This isn’t a new gardening trend, but it’s an important one here in the semi-arid West—especially as more of us go through sustained periods of drought.
The idea behind waterwise gardens is that you:
- Choose plants that don’t need a lot of moisture to survive.
- Group plants with similar watering needs together, so you can be efficient in your irrigation. (Good for your water bill — and Mama Nature too!) In other words, you avoid placing plants that prefer lots of water next to ones that need very little water.
This doesn’t mean your yard has to look like a desert. You can still have a gorgeous flower garden!
But it does mean you may need to think differently about your plant choices. For example, a big part of waterwise gardens is embracing native plants that can tolerate drought.
You also may want to learn about waterwise plants that thrive in our sister climates. These are plants from “high steppe” regions of the world that share our growing conditions.
For example, did you know that plants that are native to Patagonia, Central Asia and the steppe region of South Africa often grow well in states like Colorado and Utah?
Yep, our gardens have more in common with Patagonia than Pittsburgh.
(Explains a few things, right?)
Does this mean you can’t plant flowers you love from other parts of the country?
Nope!
But it does help to understand that not every plant is a good fit for semi-arid gardens.
The good news is there are some plants that many people know from other places that grow well in states like Colorado. For example, bearded irises and lilacs tend to be drought tolerant and can thrive in our tough, western growing conditions.
Looking for inspiration for drought-tolerant plants? The western plant introduction program—Plant Select—has a variety of western native plants and plants from sister regions of the world.
#5: Lawn/turf conversions are becoming more common.
I recently crossed paths with a homeowner from Park City, Utah. She was telling me that Park City residents are allotted a finite amount of water per household each year. If you exceed that amount, you have to pay a BIG financial penalty.
Yikes!
She said they pay close attention to their monthly water bill. They’ve also rethought their lawn. They still have some areas of lawn, but only where it makes sense.
As more people are looking for ways to get smart with their water use (whether it’s to save money or do good for Mama Nature), there’s a growing interest in replacing portions of traditional lawns with turf alternatives, like:
- Drought-tolerant perennials (the flowers that return year after year) and native plants
- Waterwise groundcovers
- Turf grasses that thrive in hot temperatures
These new alternatives to traditional lawns “allow homeowners to cut back on pesticides, fertilizers, mowing and watering,” says the National Wildlife Federation.
Yes, please!
Many of us have lawn grasses that thrive in cooler, damper parts of the country.
Kentucky Bluegrass, for example, is a common lawn grass in the Front Range of Colorado. It’s a “cool season” grass. It thrives in cool temperatures ranging from 40 to 70 degrees—typically going dormant in our summer heat.
Kentucky Bluegrass can be a good lawn grass for yards that get a lot of activity (like if you have young kids).
But many of us have parts of our landscape that just aren’t used that much.
In this case, it may make sense to rethink what’s planted there.
There are some types of “heat tolerant” turf grasses that do much better in hot and dry locations, like blue grama grass, buffalo grass, and special types of Bermuda grass, like Dog Tuff™ grass and Tahoma31.
These grasses thrive in hot temperatures. They are known as “warm season” grasses. This means they grow and green up when temperatures warm up. They use significantly less water than Kentucky bluegrass, and they rarely need to be mowed. (Less work for you!)
These types of lawns may be good solutions for parts of your yard that:
- Get lots of sunlight. (Heat tolerant grasses often don’t grow well in shade.)
- Don’t get heavy foot traffic.
- Don’t have mature trees nearby that may need more water.
Dog Tuff™ Grass is an example of a heat tolerant grass. Photo credit: Kelly Grummons. Photo courtesy of Plant Select.
I’ve transformed unused parts of my traditional lawn into waterwise gardens with a lot of native plants. Maybe you’ll be doing the same!
If you’d like to learn more about why turf conversions are beneficial, the National Wildlife Federation has an insightful article called: A Farewell to Lawns—Native turf-grass alternatives can reduce your environmental footprint while supporting birds, butterflies and other living creatures.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Jul 6, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks
There is no perfect gardener, no matter what your neighbor up the street with the pristine landscape wants you to think.
So, if you have a flower plant that looks sick, is struggling or is dying, take heart. It happens to everyone.
(Yes, even to your neighbor. Though, she may not admit it!)
Flowers can get stress, weather issues, disease, insects…
And that’s just the beginning.
The tricky thing is that sometimes the issues you see AREN’T the primary issue.
They’re signs or symptoms of an underlying problem.
Insects, for example, are known to show up when a plant is stressed and something else is going on.
So, wouldn’t it be awesome to have a plant detective to help you figure out what’s going on?
Good news, you DO have a local resource if you need plant help.
But you may have never heard of it before!
It’s called a cooperative extension or an agriculture extension office.
The lingo can vary slightly from state to state.
These offices are usually associated with a state university. For example, in Colorado, our extension is the Colorado State University Extension — or CSU Extension for short.
They’re staffed with horticulturalists and trained volunteers who are there to help you figure out what’s going on with your plants.
Pretty cool, right?
You can reach out to them by email or phone. Some have locations you can visit.
Usually, they’ll ask questions to help you identify what’s going on with your plants. If there are solutions, they’ll help you understand what to do. And it’s all based in research and science.
This service is typically free or available for a very small fee.
So, how do you find your local extension office?
Here are links to the cooperative extension offices in western states:
If you don’t see your state listed above, search for: [your state] agriculture extension office.
When you open your state’s website, look for the extension office for the county you live in. Generally, it’s best to start with your county’s office.
If you don’t see your county, look for a nearby community.
Before you reach out, you may want to collect a few pieces of info.
1) Take clear photos of what you’re seeing on your plant.
Include a close-up photo, a slightly wider shot and a very wide shot of your yard.
Sometimes the issue on your plant is related to something else that’s going on in your garden environment.
Plus, photos can be helpful for identifying your plant, whether it’s a flower, vegetable, shrub or tree.
2) Make notes about what you’re seeing.
This makes it easier for someone who isn’t there by your side in your garden to understand what’s going on.
For example:
- What are you noticing?
- When did you first notice it?
- Did it happen suddenly or gradually?
- Where is this plant growing in your landscape?
- Have you noticed the issue on any other plants?
- Has anything happened recently in this area?
- Have any fertilizer, weed killers or other products been used around this plant? If yes, what kind?
- How are you watering this plant? How often?
- When was this plant planted?
Thinking through these questions in advance can be helpful.
And if you aren’t sure what the name of your plant is or you don’t know some of the answers, don’t worry! That’s okay.
3) Collect a sample.
If your plant looks diseased or like it has insects, take a sample and immediately seal it in a plastic bag.
For example, it may look like your plant has diseased leaves. Trim off a section of that plant (some leaves and stem) and seal it in a bag.
Why a sealable bag?
If you have insects, those lil’ critters move quickly. If you put your sample in a paper bag or something open, many will turn into escape artists.
Do you need to pull this info together before you reach out?
Nope! But if you’re chatting with your extension office through email, this can eliminate the need for a lot of back-and-forth messages.
You’ll make more efficient use of your time.
Plus, this background information can help your local extension office give you a more accurate diagnosis of what’s going on.
Don’t hesitate to contact your local extension office.
You don’t have to be a gardener with tons of experience to contact your local extension office.
If you have flowers that look sick or are dying OR you have another pressing plant or yard question (for example, you’re having a hard time getting rid of a weed), it’s 100% okay to reach out.
Your extension office should be there to help you without judgment.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Gardening for Pollinators, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
During the spring of 2020, my husband and I re-worked part of our yard with new garden beds. (Any other weekend warriors out there?)
I wanted to include drought-tolerant red flowers that would grow well in Colorado’s poor soils and hot, dry climate.
And that’s when I fell in love with a flower called Red Birds in a Tree… and so did our local hummingbirds!
Hummingbirds LOVE this flower.
My husband walks inside every morning after walking the dog and announces, “The hummingbirds are outside. Again.”
Here are 5 reasons to consider adding Red Birds in a Tree to your western garden:
Photo courtesy of Plant Select
1) Unique flowers
The flowers on this plant look like little pinkish-red birds sitting on tree branches.
Aren’t they so cute?
This flower plant isn’t the showiest one I have in my garden, but it’s the one that my neighbors always ask about.
It’s an attention-getter because it’s unusual.
2) Long-lasting color
Red Birds in a Tree is a perennial (a flower that returns each year).
Most perennials bloom for a short window of time — sometimes only a few weeks!
But not this one.
This plant blooms for a LONG time.
Over the last two summers, this flower has started blooming in my Denver garden in late June. Once it starts flowering, it keeps going and going. I’ve had blooms into early October. I get the showiest color in the first 4-6 weeks of blooming.
Are you familiar with plant hardiness zones? They tell you whether a plant is likely to survive the coldest winter temperatures that are expected where you live. Red Birds in a Tree is ideal for gardens in plant hardiness zones 4-9.
3) It’s very drought tolerant
When you first plant Red Birds in a Tree, you’ll want to water it consistently while it’s a young plant. But once it gets established in your garden, this plant is VERY drought tolerant.
You can even grow this plant in xeric gardens. Xeric gardens get their water from Mama Nature, and that’s about it. There’s almost no supplemental irrigation. Do you have a spot in your yard that doesn’t get irrigation from a sprinkler system? Red Birds in a Tree could be a great plant for that area.
Red Birds in a Tree can handle up to moderate irrigation too.
But my understanding is, if this plant gets more frequent watering and your dirt is “loam” (meaning you have well-balanced soil), this plant may not live for as many years.
Photo courtesy of Plant Select
4) It’s easy going
Red Birds in a Tree grows well in all kinds of sunlight. It isn’t picky. You can put it in sunny spots or in partly shady spots. Personally, I’ve had more success with it in afternoon sunshine.
This plant also grows in different types of soils (the dirt in your garden). This is a good thing because western soils can be a pain in the booty.
This flower plant is adaptable.
And it’s good for elevations up to about 8125 feet.
5) It’s a western regional native
Red Birds in a Tree is native to the mountain slopes of New Mexico, and it’s on the flight path of migrating hummingbirds. If you want to buy regionally native plants, add this one to your list.
Where to buy Red Birds in a Tree
Red Birds in a Tree is a Plant Select plant. Plant Select is a western plant introduction program. It introduces smart and sustainable plants inspired by the Rocky Mountain region. (It’s a non-profit collaboration between Colorado State University, Denver Botanic Gardens and the western green industry.)
You should be able to find this plant at local, independent garden centers that carry the Plant Select brand.
You also can google, “Red Birds in a Tree,” to find online retailers.
Just so you have it, the botanical name is Scrophularia macrantha.
(Try saying that 3 times quickly. Ha!)
Please visit the Plant Select website if you’d like more details about Red Birds in a Tree.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Jun 12, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Gardening for Pollinators, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Think low-water gardens have to look dull, desert-like, or weedy? Nope! Waterwise landscapes can be lush, vibrant, and pollinator friendly. Plus, they’re often a lot less work.
If you’re looking for ways to save water and get more blooms for your buck, here are a variety of beautiful, low-water perennials to inspire your Colorado garden.
You can mix and match these plants.
Key: * = Plant Select plants. Select photos courtesy of Plant Select.
Awesome starters: Colorado native plants
Native to Front Range/southeastern Colorado
Pollinator friendly and very low fuss
This is an attractive combo of Colorado native plants if you’re just getting started with low-water gardening and/or you want to support pollinators. These native plants adapt well to many soil types, and they’re relatively forgiving.
- Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus)
- Chocolate flower* (Berlandiera lyrata) – Note: The blooms on chocolate flower close in the heat of the day
- Winecups / purple poppy mallow* (Callirhoe involucrata)
- Blanket flower (Gallardia artistata)
- Dwarf rabbitbrush/Baby Blue rabbitbrush* (Ericameria nauseosa var. nauseosa)
- Honorable mention: Prairie coneflower/Mexican hat (Ratibida columnifera)
Note: Scroll down for a longer list of native plants that thrive in Denver and Front Range gardens.
Awesome starters: Drought-tolerant perennials with a more classic look
Low water, low fuss… yes, please!
Let’s say you want to use less water, but you’d like a more classic look. Here are low-water perennials to get started. Once again, they’re quite forgiving.
- Tall-bearded iris (Iris x germanica)
- Little Trudy catmint* (Nepeta ‘Psfike’)
- Little Night European meadow sage (Salvia sylvestris ‘Little Night’)
- Moonshine yarrow (Achillea ‘Moonshine’)
- Autumn Joy sedum (Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’)
Honorable mention: Jupiter’s beard (Centranthus ruber)
Sun daisies (Osteospermum) like Purple Mountain*, Mandy*, or Avalanche White*
Lavenders (Lavandula angustifolia) like Wee One*, Hidcote, and Munstead – these lavenders prefer well-drained soil
Hummingbird faves
Ring the dinner bell (and breakfast and lunch bells) for hummingbirds
Find more hummingbird plants for Colorado gardens here >
Perennials for winter interest
These plants can jazz up your winter landscape, adding beauty in the off-season
“What’s that?” plants
Unusual, low-water plants that turn heads
Dry shade perennials
Drought-tolerant plants for spots with tough light
More drought-tolerant native plants for Colorado gardens
Attractive to pollinators; this list includes selections of wild species
Additional resources that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Jun 20, 2025 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
In my opinion, there is nothing that will suck the soul from your gardening body like hail
You can have your flowers looking SO DARN GOOD … And after a few minutes of hail, your Instagram-worthy flowers have become a sloppy, shredded mess.
Ugh.
Mama Nature doesn’t always play nice.
If hail destroyed your garden or your flowerpots, I’m so sorry. It’s demoralizing. You may be at a loss for where to even start cleaning up the hail damage.
If you’re wondering, “What do I do now?”, let’s chat about how to care for your plants after hail.
1) How to reduce your plants’ stress, so they perk up
Prozac for plants
It may be weird to think that your plants can get stressed, but they can. And a hailstorm counts as a VERY stressful event for your flower garden — not to mention, for you too!
Luckily, there are products that can help.
The micro-nutrients in seaweed and kelp can help your plants reduce stress. You may want to give your plants a mild, liquid plant food that contains seaweed or kelp, like Age Old Fish & Seaweed or Age Old Kelp.
Think of these products like Prozac for plants.
Your local, independent garden center should carry products that can help with plant stress too. If you visit your local store, ask them what they have in stock that they recommend for reducing plant stress.
2) How to clean up your perennials after hail, so they stay healthy
Perennials are your plants that return every year
Let’s chat about the hail damage you may see on your perennials.
Is there a lot of debris on the ground?
Rake it up. If you leave it, it can collect moisture and be a home for pesty insects or disease.
Do your perennials have broken stems?
If yes, trim off those stems. Take your finger and run it down the stem BELOW the break. Stop just above the first set of leaves you reach or at the first intersection with another stem. This is where to make your snip.
Did the hail break or destroy your flower blooms?
If yes, trim them off too.
Similar to trimming off broken stems, take your finger and run it down the stem below the destroyed flower bloom. Stop just above the first set of leaves you reach or at the first intersection with another stem. This is where to make your snip.
(Are you familiar with “deadheading?” This is basically what you’re doing here.)
Do you see tattered or hole-y leaves?
If the leaves are really shredded or dangling, cleanly trim off.
But if your leaves have mild damage, you may want to leave them. Why? Because the leaves are where photosynthesis happens. This is where your plant is making food and energy for itself, so it can grow new leaves and/or return next year.
Are your perennials bent over, but the stems aren’t broken?
A few days of sun and water may help your plants perk up. (It depends on the plant.)
There are some perennials you can aggressively trim back, and they should grow new leaves and flowers.
Two examples are Salvia (Salvia sylvestris) and Catmint (Nepeta), pictured below.
You can cut these plants back to just above the first or second set of leaves from the ground. They should push out new leaves and flowers for you over the next 3-4 weeks.
Don’t shear (cut) straight across the plant, though. Instead, trim each stem just above a leaf — like you’re deadheading.
Keep these plants well-watered after you give them an aggressive haircut.
It’s worth noting that timing matters.
Later in the summer, it’s best if your plants focus on getting ready for winter, rather than using their energy on new growth. If you get your hailstorm in the latter half of the summer, you may not want to aggressively trim back your plants. I know they may not look the best after hail, but this way, they can put their energy into becoming more “hardy” for winter.
If you’re unsure whether to cut your flowers way back or not, take photos before you go to your garden center for “plant Prozac.” Show them your photos and ask whether you can aggressively trim back the plants in your garden.
3) How to clean up your annuals after hail
Annuals are your one-summer flowers
Your clean-up depends on how bad the damage is.
Just a few minutes of hail can make a real mess of annuals.
In the photo below, you’ll see a before and after picture of flowerpot hail damage. This is what flowerpots look like before and after hail. Oye!
The flowers that held up the best are the center red plants (Cordyline Spikes) and the red and yellow flowers in the foreground (a perennial known as Gaillardia or Blanket Flower). But most of the annuals in these flowerpots are in rough shape.
So, what can you do?
You can always follow all the steps above to see if they help. If the damage isn’t too bad, your plants may bounce back in a few days.
But if your annuals are mushy or they just don’t bounce back over the next few days, I’d pull them out.
Composting is a topic for another time, but if you do have a compost pile, you should be able to add these plants to the pile. To ensure you’re adding healthy plant remains to your compost pile, the key is to clean up soon after the storm.
If your hailstorm happens early in the summer…
You can plant new annuals.
Later in the summer…
The garden centers should have pretty flowers that look autumn-y. You can plant them if you’re really missing the color.
Otherwise, wait until next year and give it a fresh start.
4) Take photos
I know the last thing you may want to do is document the devastation, but we tend to have short memories as gardeners.
Or maybe we just block hail damage out of our memories!
It’s helpful to take photos of your plants before you clean them up, so you remember which plants did better in hail than others.
Then, create a folder on your phone called: Garden Hail Damage. Put the photos in it, so they’re easy to find.
If you continue to get hail storms, you may want to transition to plants that are more hail-resistant.
A word of encouragement…
I have a flower lover on my email list who closely followed all these tips after a “heartbreaking” hail storm last summer. She said her plants came back bigger and more beautiful than before the hail storm.
So, please know, there’s hope!
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
9 ways to prepare for hail to minimize damage to your western garden
Hail can leave you wanting to yell, “WHHHHYYYYYYYY?????” to Mama Nature. Sometimes, thunderstorms pop up so suddenly, there’s very little that can be done except for cleaning up the damage.
But other times, you may see thunderstorms in the forecast, and you can plan ahead.
In this tip, you’ll find options for how to protect your flowers from hail.
With a little planning, you can reduce hail damage and keep your sanity (and garden) intact.
Here’s how to protect your flowers from hail.
#1: Plant drought-tolerant flowers in your garden.
One of the easiest ways to minimize hail damage and reduce your clean-up after a hailstorm is to plant drought-tolerant flowers. These waterwise plants are more than just pretty. Many of them are as tough as heavyweight champs.
You’ll see a couple examples of drought-tolerant flowers that are more resistant to hail below, such as Coreopsis and Salvia (sometimes called Meadow Sage).
Find out why drought-tolerant plants are more resistant to hail and see examples here >>
#2: Plant your annuals in flowerpots, rather than in the ground.
Annuals are your flowers that bloom for one summer, but typically don’t return.
Unfortunately, they tend to be vulnerable to hail.
When you plant your annuals in pots, you can keep them on covered porches or under overhangs, so they’re out of harm’s way. If you want to put your pots in your garden, you can quickly move them to a protected spot in a hailstorm (assuming the pots aren’t too heavy).
I pull my pots under an overhang on our porch when severe thunderstorms are in the forecast or when I see red storm cells approaching on the radar.
#3: Proactively move your flowerpots to a protected spot if hail is in the forecast.
I know some of your pots may be too heavy to move, so let’s focus on your pots that aren’t too heavy.
You may want to get “plant caddies” to help you.
Nope, you aren’t recruiting anybody from the local golf course.
Plant caddies are devices with wheels that make it easier for you to roll your pots. I keep my flowerpots on plant caddies all the time. That way, I’m ready to roll them when bad weather is coming in.
The home improvement stores often carry plant caddies. You also can google them to find more decorative versions.
If you can pull your pots under a tree, that sometimes helps too.
#4: Cover vulnerable plants in your garden when hail is in the forecast.
Get creative!
You can use a variety of materials to cover your vulnerable plants.
For example, you can:
- Cover your plants with trash cans, laundry baskets, cardboard boxes, buckets, empty flowerpots and plastic storage bins turned upside down.
- Use outdoor lawn furniture to cover your plants.
- Hang fabrics and netting that protect against hail.
Some netting is specifically made for hail, like “anti-hail netting.” But these fabrics can be hard to find when you need them, and they can be pricey.
So, don’t be afraid to get creative!
I know many gardeners who use other fabrics, such as breathable netting from a fabric store or metal hardware cloth.
I even have one neighbor who makes tents over her flowers with old shower curtain liners.
(How’s that for creative?)
Ideally, what you’re trying to do is reduce the force of the hail and lower its kinetic energy, so it does less damage.
Hopefully this goes without saying, but don’t use anything as a cover that you don’t want to get destroyed. If your hailstorm is intense enough, it can damage just about anything.
#5: Don’t cover your flowers for long amounts of time.
If you’re using something that isn’t breathable to cover your plants, don’t keep the cover on for too long.
You don’t want to accidentally cook your flowers, particularly on warm days.
If you’re going to work for the day and hail is in the forecast, cover your plants with a material that’s breathable, like netting. Or, use something like a laundry basket or a lawn chair, so the air can still move and you aren’t trapping heat.
#6: Be on the lookout for thunderstorm clouds.
Thunderstorm clouds start out as tall, white, puffy clouds that resemble cauliflower heads.
Often, right before hail, part of the sky has an aqua green color to it. Check out photo below, so you can see what I mean.
The second I see that aqua color in the sky, I jump into action!
These are your signals to leap into flower plant protection mode if you have vulnerable plants that you want to protect.
#7: Watch for orange, red or purple storm cells on your weather app.
Be on high alert when you see orange, red or purple storm cells on the radar moving your way. These colors indicate severe storm cells.
Hail may not be far behind.
Photo credit: Weather.com
#8: Find a neighbor who shares a love for flowers and create a buddy system.
Let each other know when hail is coming.
#9: Think about what kind of mindset you want to have as a western gardener.
There are two ways to think about hail:
- You can be proactive in trying to prevent it, following tips like these to protect your flowers from hail.
- You can go with the flow. You can choose not to worry about hail, welcoming whatever Mama Nature throws at you — rain some days, hail some others. You’ll let Mama Nature do her thing and see what happens.
Full disclosure, I fall into the first category. But I have friends in the second category, and they certainly have a more carefree gardening experience.
It’s up to you!
If these tips were helpful, you may also like:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Gardening Tips and Tricks, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
When you live in states like Colorado, Wyoming and Texas, you may not get hail every year, but some years, you’ll get it 2 … 3 … 7 times.
(I’m not crying. I have something in my eye.)
It’s like playing the lottery, except hail is a prize you DON’T want to win.
In this tip, you’ll get the scoop on plants that do better in hail than others, so you won’t have as much damage and clean-up.
Flower plants that are “drought tolerant” or “xeric” — meaning they need less water — tend to do better in hail than others.
If “drought tolerant” makes you think you can only plant cacti, I have good news.
You have LOTS of options for beautiful, drought-tolerant flowers. They just may not be the flowers you know from other parts of the country.
In the photos below, you’ll find examples of drought-tolerant, hail-resistant plants.
Hyssop (Agastache)
Salvia (Salvia greggii)
Ice plant (Delosperma)
Salvia or Garden Sage (Salvia nemorosa)
Coreopsis
So, why can drought-tolerant plants resist hail?
Often times, drought-tolerant plants have narrow leaves, small leaves or heavier, waxy leaves.
Many of them also tend to stand more upright in a garden.
On sunny days, these features help protect them from the sun’s intense rays and help the plants hold onto water.
But it turns out these traits also come in handy when it comes to hail.
Typically, drought-tolerant plants don’t get as damaged by falling ice chunks.
This means you’ll have less plant debris to clean up after a hailstorm. (Less work!) It also means these plants bounce back better after hail.
So, as you plan your western garden, think about planting drought-tolerant flowers.
Keep in mind, it all depends on the hailstorm you get. Every plant has its limits. Unfortunately, there is no perfect plant for hail.
Ornamental grasses tend to do better in hail too.
Some ornamental grasses are more drought tolerant than others.
Regardless, ornamental grasses do share traits in common with drought-tolerant plants.
For example, they tend to have really narrow leaves.
You know that expression, “Bend, but don’t break?”
Your grasses may get flattened by hail, but they may not break. This means they may perk back up with some sunshine and water.
Once again, the damage to your grasses depends on how bad your hailstorm is.
Plants that thrive in other parts of the country tend to struggle more in hail.
Plant that are vulnerable to hail damage include:
- Woodland plants with larger leaves
- Plants with big flower blooms and
- Most types of annuals (the colorful flowers that bloom through the summer but won’t return next year)
They’re easily shredded by hail stones. This means you’ll have more clean-up, and you may need to replace destroyed plants.
Below you’ll find examples of plants that are vulnerable to hail damage.
Hostas
Begonias
New Guinea Impatiens
What does hail damage look like?
Check out the flowerpots below: pre- and post-hail. I took these photos one week apart. Ugh!
The flowers that held up the best are the center red plants (Cordyline Spikes) and the red and yellow flowers in the foreground (a perennial known as Blanket Flower or Gallardia). But most of the annuals in these flowerpots have been shredded. There is very little left of them.
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: May 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks
Trimming off the dead blooms from your flowers can make them look even prettier.
It’s like giving them a fresh, new haircut!
But when you remove the dead blooms, should you pluck them by hand or with a tool?
I got this question and wanted to chat about it here.
For many flowers, using your fingers to remove the dead blooms is fine.
Once you get the hang of trimming off the dead blooms on your flowers (known as “deadheading”), you’ll be casually passing by your flowerpot with a cup of coffee in hand, and those dried-up flowers will be calling to you.
It’s hard to resist the urge to stop and pinch them off with your fingers.
Tip: It helps if you have longer fingernails, and you aren’t wearing gloves.
But, as I’ve learned the hard way…
Pinching off dead flowers with your fingers has its drawbacks.
- You may accidentally break off parts of the plant you didn’t intend to. And for me, it always seems to be a really pretty flower that’s about to open or a whole stem with new buds. (Ack!!!)
- It’s hard to be 100% accurate where you’re pinching a plant with your fingers. The stems don’t always break off cleanly or where you wanted. You can end up with some cuts that aren’t great for the plant and leave dead, stick-like stems. Not exactly the look we’re going for!
- Your hands can get sticky, depending on the plant. (I’m looking at you, petunias.)
- Some flower stems are just too thick to pinch with your fingers.
So, instead, consider using floral snips or hand pruners.
I use floral snips most of the time.
Floral snips are a small pair of scissors for trimming plants.
Tip! I leave my floral snips in an inconspicuous spot outside my door, so I can quickly pick them up when I walk outside. This helps me resist the urge to trim dead blooms with my fingers.
It also helps me trim dead blooms as I see them, rather than waiting until the plant is full of them.
(Translation: Keep those colorful blooms going!)
Floral snips are awesome because you can be VERY accurate in where you’re making a snip.
In the photo below, check out the precision you have when trimming off a petunia bloom.
Plus, if you want, you can wear gloves to keep your hands clean.
Floral snips work really well on flowers with thin stems, which are probably most of the flowers in your containers and many of the flowers in your garden.
But learn from my mistakes!
Don’t use your floral snips to cut thick-stalked plants.
You can accidentally squeeze the plant stems (not good) and really dull your snips.
Also, this may go without saying, but keep your floral snips for trimming plants.
My husband likes to borrow my floral snips for impromptu sprinkler projects, like cutting lines of tubing. The snips are never the same afterwards.
Moral of the story:
Hide the floral snips from your industrious Honey. 🙂
If you’re cutting a thicker-stemmed plant like a rose stem or a “cut flower”…
I suggest using hand pruners.
Hand pruners are a sturdier and bigger tool.
“Cut flowers” are the flowers you see in bouquets. Often times, they have thicker stems.
When choosing hand pruners, make sure the metal blades cross beside each other, rather than meeting at a center point.
This gives them extra strength for cutting.
It also ensures you won’t break or squeeze your flower stalks.
Where to find floral snips & hand pruners (new or used)
You can find new floral snips and hand pruners at your local garden center.
In the spring and early summer, you’ll often see them at places like Costco too.
If you prefer used garden tools, check out estate sales or websites like NextDoor, Craig’s List or OfferUp.
When you get used garden tools, clean them with soap and water and a disinfectant when you bring them home. This will help you lower the risk of spreading weeds or diseases to your plants.
I like the Fiskars brand for floral snips and hand pruners.
I’m not an affiliate for them. I’m just sharing their name for your convenience.
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