by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
It’s tempting to want to get out early in the fall and tidy up your western garden for winter, especially if you’re having a mild fall. But is it too early? When’s the best time to cut back perennials in Colorado and similar states?
In this article, you’ll get the scoop on:
- Why it helps to wait to trim down plants
- Whether it’s better to cut back perennials in the fall or spring in Colorado (hint: it depends!)
Let’s start with your garden in the fall…
No need to rush it. Put your feet up. Enjoy the fall color!
Your plants will thank you for it.
On autumn days, it may look like your perennials aren’t doing much. But they’re doing A LOT… under ground.
In the fall, soil temperatures are still warm, and air temperatures are cooling off. For most plants, these are ideal conditions for growing roots. And healthy roots are the secret to bigger, stronger plants next season, which is so important in our gotta-have-some-moxie West.
So, don’t cut back your perennials too early, especially if they’re still green.
Instead, let them gather as much energy as they can for their roots, so they can come back strong and showy in the spring. Wait until you’ve gone through several hard freezes before you get out your pruners. (A hard freeze is when temperatures drop to 28 degrees or below.)
When temps start dipping and dancing their way into the mid-20s, you’ll likely see the leaves on your perennials wither, brown, curl or drop. That’s your cue to prune IF you want to cut back your perennials in the fall.
Of course, then the question becomes…
Is it better to cut back perennials in the fall or spring in Colorado and similar western states?
The short answer is: It depends.
Mama Nature likes to keep us on our toes!
Let’s assume you don’t live in an area that’s at risk for wildfires. If so, there are LOTS of good reasons to wait until late March, early April or even later to clean up leaf litter and cut back most perennials. For example, you’ll:
But there are a few instances when it helps to clean up some plants in the late fall. For example, it’s a good idea to cut back:
- Diseased plants or plants with pesky insects, so the problem doesn’t carry over to next season.
- Plants that spread seeds like a fairy godmother tossing pixie dust, assuming you don’t want more plants next year.
- Dried out leaves and stems if you live in a wildland-urban interface and your home has some wildfire risk. (The Colorado State Forest Service has a helpful PDF on how to clean up your plants to reduce wildfire risk.)
There is no one-size-fits all approach to western garden clean-up.
What I do in my Colorado perennial garden
When I first moved to Denver, I used to cut back my perennials in the fall. I left my flowerpot clean-up until the spring.
Now I do the opposite.
I tackle my flowerpots in the fall. (Here’s why.) And I wait until April to cut back the majority of my perennials. I wait until I see new spring growth appearing from the ground. I try to wait until late April to clean out the leaf debris in my garden.
Because native bees often nest in the pithy plant stems (like rose canes), I set aside those types of plant stalks once I trim the plants down. Some bees don’t emerge until later in the spring.
Why not clean up the garden earlier, like in the late fall or in February?
Two reasons:
- Unpredictable Colorado weather. I’ve learned the hard way that we tend to bounce back and forth between winter and summer. Big temperature swings in February, March and April can be tough on our plants. I leave last year’s growth on the plants as long as possible to give them as much protection as possible.
- Pollinators. Many bees that are nesting in plant stems and under leaf debris aren’t ready to emerge that early. Plus, our big temperature swings are hard on overwintering insects. The leaf litter helps insulate them.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Garden design Ideas, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
No one wants to end up with extra garden chores and sad-looking plants
But that’s what can happen if you accidentally pick plants that are known to struggle in Colorado landscapes — particularly during winter.
So, in this tip, you’ll get the scoop on 3 popular plants to AVOID planting in Colorado and similar western states. These plants can be high maintenance here. (Do you remember the TV show, “What Not to Wear?” Think of this article as: “What Not to Plant.”)
These 3 plants are very popular in other parts of the country, but they don’t like our winters. They tend to struggle in our:
- Dry climate
- Drying winter winds
- Intense winter sun
- Big temperature swings (from above freezing, to below freezing like a kindergarten seesaw)
You’ll probably see these plants at your garden center, so use this article to be a smarter shopper. Let’s dig in!
Boxwoods
Boxwoods are decorative shrubs. They grow well in regions of the country with milder winters. It’s hard to open a garden magazine without seeing a lush, eastern garden that’s lined with boxwoods.
Boxwoods are evergreen. When they’re planted in a place where they’re happy, they typically stay green through the entire winter. I like to think of evergreen plants as staying “forever green.” It also means they don’t go dormant (into hibernation mode), so it’s important to keep them regularly watered through the winter.
Unfortunately, in western states like Colorado and Utah, boxwoods can be temperamental
During the winter, boxwood leaves have a tendency to dry out — often turning brown or orange.
You also may see translucent yellow leaves (like the leaves below in the upper left).
You may hear this called “winter burn,” and it isn’t a pretty look.
When you see boxwoods at the garden center, they’re going to look lush, green and super cute. But save yourself the headaches and skip them!
“But I have my heart set on boxwoods!” In this case, head to a locally-owned garden center. Ask whether they carry types of boxwoods that have a better track record in states like Colorado and Utah.
You may have more luck if you plant boxwoods in sheltered places in your yard that face east, northeast or north.
And just know they’re likely going to need more work and water to keep them looking good.
Manhattan Euonymus
(pronounced: yoo-on-uh-muhs)
These plants are like super-sized boxwoods. When they’re green, they look good.
But this is another shrub that can struggle in Colorado winters
You may be wondering, “Okay, so what does winter damage look like on a Manhattan euonymus?”
The leaves on your Manhattan euonymus will turn yellow. The may become brittle and dried out. The leaves will start dropping off.
As the dead leaves slowly fall off, it’s like bad New Year’s Eve confetti. You may find yourself raking up these leaves for months … and months … and months.
(I’m speaking from personal experience here. I used to have Manhattan euonymus in my yard.)
With good watering, you should get buds for new leaves when temperatures warm up, but it takes time. When these shrubs get winter burn, they don’t look good for much of the year.
If you want shrubs that stay consistently green through our yo-yo temperature swings during winter, this isn’t it. 🙂
Add Manhattan euonymus to your “What NOT to plant in Colorado and similar western states” list.
Arborvitaes
(pronounced: arbor-vie-tees)
Arborvitaes are trees and shrubs that are often used as hedges.
They’re a popular landscape plant in humid regions of the country. They grow quickly, and they’re evergreen. Again, this means typically stay green over the winter. They don’t go dormant.
But arborvitaes are another plant to avoid in Colorado landscapes
Arborvitaes like a lot of moisture, so they may struggle if you aren’t great about winter watering.
Not to mention, our drying winter winds and our harsh freezes can be brutal for them. You may see them turn brown — almost like a rust color.
Some years, your arborvitaes may do fine and make it through the winter without an issue.
Other years?
Not so much.
If you want to save yourself some headaches (and avoid the expense of replacing dead plants), skip arborvitaes in your Colorado landscape.
So, does this mean you CAN’T plant any of these shrubs and trees?
Friends, the beauty of gardening is you can try planting (almost) anything. You may be able to find a protected location in your yard where these plants are less vulnerable to winter damage.
But if you’re planning your landscape in Colorado, Utah or a similar western state, growing plants that are better adapted to our winters will take less effort!
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Buying flowers for western gardens can feel like a lot of work.
Especially when you live in the semi-arid, gotta-have-some-moxie West — like Colorado and Utah!
This isn’t a place where you a dig a few holes, plop in some flowers and watch them grow into a lush jungle. Nope, our growing conditions can be tough on plants (and on our water supply), so we need to be smart in the flowers we choose.
Let’s say you’d like a beautiful, drought-tolerant garden, but you want to skip the hassle of figuring out flowers.
You may want to explore pre-planned gardens for Colorado and Utah instead. They’re also known as gardens in a box.
In this article, you’ll get the scoop on:
- What a pre-planned garden is
- Why they can make creating a western flower garden much easier
- Beautiful examples of pre-planned gardens that are drought tolerant
- An important tip for choosing a pre-planned flower garden
Pre-planned flower garden in Colorado. Image courtesy of Resource Central.
What is a pre-planned garden?
Typically, a pre-planned flower garden is a collection of beautiful flowers for a specific theme, like:
- Drought-tolerant flowers for a sunny portion of your yard
- Heat-loving flowers for tough, hot spots in your yard
- Pollinator gardens, like butterfly or hummingbird gardens
- Native plants that attract pollinators, like bees or birds, or
- Good plants for dry, shady spots in your yard
You receive the flowers and a suggested garden design, or you get flower seeds and guidelines on how to plant them. Then, you get the satisfaction of planting the flowers and enjoying the gorgeous results.
But you don’t have to research which flowers grow well together.
Many pre-planned gardens also take care of the plant shopping for you too.
You get the beauty without the headaches.
Think of a pre-planned garden like a dinner meal kit.
You get a chef-inspired recipe and fresh ingredients, so you can focus on the joy of cooking and enjoying every bite. But you don’t have to waste your time on meal planning or grocery shopping.
Pre-planned flower gardens usually work the same way.
Here are perks of a pre-planned garden:
- You’ll save time.
- You’ll enjoy a professionally-designed garden without the expense of a landscaper.
- Your flowers will look beautiful together. (Get ready for neighbors to stop and admire your garden!)
- You’ll often get color all season because the flowers have been specially selected to bloom at different times.
- You should have a happy garden because your flowers prefer similar growing conditions, like how much sunlight and water they need.
- You’ll likely lower your water bill and do some good for Mama Nature if you pick a garden with waterwise plants and native plants.
- You can skip trial and error and wasted money, if you feel like you’re guessing which flowers to plant and hoping they’ll grow. (Fewer dead plants!)
Check out these examples of pre-planned flower gardens for Colorado and similar western states:
1) Pre-planned flower gardens from High Country Gardens
High Country Gardens is an online garden retailer. Think of them like Zappos for plants.
They have beautiful, pre-planned gardens, in addition to selling individual plants. And many of their pre-planned gardens have been created with our tough, western growing conditions in mind.
The Summer Dreams Pre-Planned Garden, planted in New Mexico. Used with permission from High Country Gardens. You can find the plant list on their website.
High Country Gardens specializes in native and waterwise plants. They’re a good source for flower plants if you want to create a sustainable, low-water landscape. They also carry a lot of unique plants that you can’t find at local garden centers.
You can order their pre-planned flower gardens for delivery in the spring or in the fall. They often sell out, so plan ahead. Don’t wait until the last minute to order.
Check out the pre-planned flower gardens from High Country Gardens here >>
2) Gardens in a Box from Resource Central | Colorado
Resource Central is a nonprofit in the Front Range of Colorado. They help homeowners conserve natural resources, like water. They have a special, waterwise garden program called “Gardens in a Box.”
Illustration of the native Colorado Oasis garden. Image courtesy of Resource Central.
Gardens in a Box are drought-tolerant, pre-planned flowers gardens. They were designed for Colorado’s semi-arid climate and tricky growing conditions. You can choose from a variety of waterwise flower gardens — like native flowers, colorful flowers for shady areas, flowers for mountain gardens, etc.
Each “box” comes with plants and a professional design.
Pre-planned flower garden in Colorado. Image courtesy of Resource Central.
Gardens in a Box are available for planting in the spring or fall. They go on sale during the winter (for the spring) and the summer (for the fall). They’re popular and sell out, so if you’re interested, sign up to be notified when the Gardens in a Box go on sale. When you buy a Garden in a Box, you’ll choose a pick-up location along the Front Range of Colorado, so you can easily pick it up. The gardens are not delivered to your home.
Check out Gardens in a Box from Resource Central >>
If you live outside the Front Range of Colorado, check with your city or local water agency to see if they offer a similar program.
3) Seed mixes from Botanical Interests
Botanical Interests is an online seed company and a Colorado company. They offer a range of flower seed mixes with beautiful flowers. In their mixes, you often can get both annuals (the one-summer-only flowers) and perennials (the flowers that return every year). And yes, they have a waterwise garden mix too, as can see below.
Image courtesy of Botanical Interests
Growing flowers from seeds has its perks:
- One, it’s rewarding to see your plant babies come up from the ground.
- Two, it’s economical. You don’t need fancy indoor growing equipment for these mixes. You just spread the seeds directly in the ground. (Don’t worry, the seed packets come with instructions!)
Depending on the flowers you’re growing, you may plant your seeds in the spring, fall or late winter.
If Botanical Interests is sold out of the seed mix you want, you can sign up to get an email when the seeds become available. You also can find their seeds at local, independent garden centers in Colorado.
Check out the flower seed mixes from Botanical Interests here >>
Image used with permission from Botanical Interests
4) Free, downloadable garden designs from Plant Select
Plant Select is a non-profit collaboration between Colorado State University, Denver Botanic Gardens and the professional green industry. This non-profit helps bring unique and sustainable plants to market that are inspired by the Rocky Mountain region.
They have free, downloadable garden designs available on their website. Many of their designs are waterwise gardens (beautiful flower gardens that need very little water).
In this case, you have to go to a garden center to buy the plants yourself, but the professional designs are done for you.
Check out the downloadable garden designs from Plant Select here >>
Before you pick a pre-planned flower garden for Colorado (or a similar state)…
Just make sure the plants work well for your growing conditions
For example, if you’re buying a pre-planned garden from an online retailer, make sure the garden is well suited for the semi-arid West.
A pre-planned garden with flowers that thrive on the East Coast or in the Midwest (where they have fertile soils and lots of moisture) may not be the best fit for your it-hasn’t-rained-in-2-months garden in Colorado, right?
If you’re ever in doubt, you can always chat with the company you’re buying from. Typically, they’re happy to help.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
If I could go back in time and tell myself one thing as a new gardener…
I would say it’s worth finding pretty flower pots. They’re like a good pair of shoes or a nice piece of jewelry. They can really elevate the look of your container garden.
But how do you choose? And should you buy big or small flower pots?
Here are practical questions to consider, so you can choose the best flower pot for YOU.
As you cruise through this article, keep in mind that you don’t have to buy new flowerpots. You can find them used instead. This can be good for your wallet (and Mama Nature too).
#1: Do you want to water less often?
Look for big flower pots.
Big containers tend to dry out more slowly than small pots.
#2: Do you want to have more design options with your flowers?
Look for flower pots with bigger openings (typically, big pots).
You can fit more flowers in a big container with a wide opening, so it offers more design options. You also can plant bigger flowers.
When you see flower pots that are exploding with color (like in mountain villages or outside the mall), chances are you’re looking at larger pots of flowers.
Does this mean you can’t create a beautiful container garden with medium size or small pots?
Not at all!
If you have smaller pots and you’d like to increase your design options, one thing you can do is to group pots together. That can create a really pretty look with interesting textures and heights. It also allows you to include more flowers.
You can see an example below with medium size pots.
#3: Would you like to keep your plant roots happy, which can play a role in beautiful flowers?
Look for a bigger flower pot — one that has room for plant roots to grow.
As your flower plants leaf out and grow above the soil, their roots are growing proportionally below the surface too.
Bigger containers offer more room for plant roots to grow.
And plants that have more roots are usually happier and healthier plants.
Avoid tiny pots or very shallow pots.
They’re going to look super-cute at the garden center, but it’s best to skip them for your outdoor flowers. (Use them for your indoor houseplants instead.)
#4: Do you live someplace with blazing hot summers?
Get a big pot if your flowers are going to get afternoon sunlight.
Big flower pots allow for more soil and moisture, which can do a better job keeping the roots of your plants cool and hydrated.
#5: Do you have limited space on your balcony, patio or front porch?
Look for smaller flower pots—or tall, skinny flower pots.
They work well in small or narrow spaces.
#6: Do you want to be able to move your flower pots in bad weather?
Smaller flower pots can be easier to move.
This is something to think about if you live someplace that gets hail or fluke snowstorms. Because gardening in states like Colorado, Wyoming and Texas is an adventure, y’all!
However, a small pot can still get heavy.
Plus, there are things you can do to make big pots easy to move in hailstorms, like keeping them on “plant caddies.” Plant caddies are plant stands with wheels. Get the scoop on hailstorm protection here.
#7: Are you on a budget? Or, are you interested in reusing rather than buying new?
Then, the size will vary.
Smaller flower pots will require fewer flowers and less potting soil, which can reduce your costs.
And small, decorative pots are usually cheaper than big, decorative pots at garden centers. With that said…
You can find deals on any size container if you get creative.
For example, you don’t have to buy a new container.
- If you’re moving into a home, ask if the previous owner wants to leave any garden supplies — like flower pots. People are often transitioning to different stages of life. (This is how I scored many of my garden tools and a collection of pots!)
- You can look for flower pots at estate sales.
- Neighborhood websites like Facebook Marketplace, Next Door, Craig’s List or OfferUp can be a good source of garden supplies, including flower pots.
In the early spring, places like Costco and HomeGoods (TJ Maxx) often carry flowerpots that won’t break the bank.
And in the fall, flower pots often go on sale at garden centers and boutique-type stores.
#8: Want to make sure your flower pots have the most important feature of all?
Look for flower pots with a hole.
You’ll save yourself extra steps and have happier plants.
Why do they make so many flower pots without holes? It’s weird!
Holes are important.
A flower pot without a hole is like a bathtub without a drain. It can lead to problems.
When water can freely drain from your pots, your plants will have much healthier roots. And healthy roots make a big difference in growing long-lived plants that look GOOD. Cheers to that!
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, In-ground garden
You’re at the store this spring, and colorful flowers catch your eye. It’s natural to want to drive straight home and plant them. Bring on the curb appeal!
But hold up…
Before you plant your flowers, it’s a good idea to help them adjust to outdoor conditions first.
In garden lingo bingo, this is known as “hardening off” or “acclimating” your plants. Many flower plants have been growing inside in greenhouses. They’ve had spa-like conditions indoors. And they’re all soft and tender from these comfy conditions.
Gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions helps toughen them up to wind, sunlight and outdoor temps. For example, their cell walls grow thicker. And they can better resist the stresses of being outside.
Think of this like preparing for the start of ski & snowboard season.
Sure, you could hit the slopes without getting your legs ready. But if you haven’t been working out, your legs are going to be ON FIRE after your first day out. You may be too sore to ski or ride for the rest of the week.
If you cross-train first, your muscles will be in much better shape. You’ll have more endurance.
Cross-training your flowers gives them more toughness too.
What happens if you don’t harden off your plants?
It can be a shock for young plants.
(And shock is not what we’re going for!)
Plants that haven’t been hardened off can struggle in multiple ways, says the University of Nebraska Extension. For example, these plants:
- Are vulnerable to sunburn, windburn (moisture loss and tissue death), and dehydration from freeze damage.
- Can break or shred easily.
- Can become stunted or die.
I see sunburn on a lot of newly-planted flowers around the Denver area in the late spring. It looks like their leaves have been bleached.
You’ve paid good money for your flowers. You want healthy plants—not flowers that look like they’re struggling, right?
Here’s how to gradually harden flowers to the outdoors:
Put your flowers outside in a protected spot for a few hours. What’s a protected spot? Look for someplace that doesn’t get direct sunlight and is sheltered from the wind, like a covered porch right up next to your home.
Then, bring them back inside or into an attached garage.
Give them a little more exposure to wind and sunlight each day. Add a few hours each day. You’ll build up their endurance, so they’re ready for planting. If your flowers like sunlight, start with shade… then morning sunlight… then work your way up to afternoon sunlight. Also work them up to staying outside overnight by the end of your hardening off period.
Try to keep your flowers from getting dried out and wilting. It’s easy for flowers to get dried out in their small nursery pots. If you pick them up and they feel light in your hand, they may need water. But if you see a few leaves turning yellow and they feel heavy when you pick them up, they may be getting too much water. Slowly reduce the amount of water you give them—but not so much that they look droopy.
Keep your eye on temperatures. If temperatures are dipping down near freezing, keep your plants inside.
Don’t fertilize them. Hold off on encouraging new growth.
Worth noting: Some flowers and veggies like warmer air and ground temperatures. They won’t do well if temps drop below 50-55 degrees. If you aren’t sure what your plants prefer, just ask at the garden center.
How many days should you harden off plants?
Some agriculture extension offices say 7-10 days. Others say 5-7 days. And some say 10-14 days.
I usually go about a week for the plants I’m buying from the store.
Ways to make it easy, peasy to harden flowers:
Make your plants easy to carry. Put your plants in a laundry basket, an open Amazon box or another container, so you can quickly move them inside and outside.
Roll, baby, roll. I have a neighbor who puts her plants on a small wagon that she wheels in and out of her garage each day.
Schedule reminders or set an alarm on your phone. That way, you’ll remember to take your flowers out. More importantly, you’ll remember to bring them back inside. (An alarm can be so helpful!)
Get creative if you head to a job every day. Maybe you want to start cross-training your flowers on the weekend. Then, if you’re going to leave them out all day during the week, start with protected spots.
What kinds of flower plants should you harden off?
- Flower plants that have been growing inside. This includes annuals (the one-season-only flowers) and perennials (the flowers that come back each year). Even some of our toughest plants in the intermountain west need to adjust to outdoor conditions. If you’re buying plants at an indoor nursery, it helps to harden them off. If you see plants outside at a store and you aren’t sure when they arrived from the greenhouse, I’d err on the side of hardening them off.
- Flowers you’re planting in the mountains. According to the Colorado State University (CSU) Extension, many mountain plants are grown in nurseries below 6000 feet. These plants may not be ready for mountain conditions yet, so it helps to harden off these plants. If your flower plants have been locally grown and they’re growing outside, they’re likely hardened off already.
- New seedlings you started inside your home and are transitioning to the outdoors. These plant babies are more likely to need more time to harden up. I’d give them 10-14 days.
If your flower plants have been growing outside already, you should be good.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | In-ground garden, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
Are you feeling adventurous this spring? Want to add a splash of color to your flowerpots?
Get to know pansies — a type of viola! These early spring flowers can add a BIG pop of color to your Colorado garden, especially if you’re ready to kiss winter goodbye.
You may be thinking, “Wait, can I plant flowers in pots in March? It seems a little early.”
You can plant pansies in March, April and May in most of Colorado, even though we can still get snow and yo-yo temperature swings. (Weird, right?)
If you live someplace else in the West, your timing may vary just a little, but timing aside, all these tips apply.
Pansies can handle cool temperatures.
Pansies are in their happy place when temperatures are in the 40s to 60s, and they’re surprisingly tolerant of our wacky spring weather.
Typically, March and April are good times to start planting pansies at our lower elevations in Colorado.
In my garden in the Front Range, I find that late March is often an ideal time to plant pansies. We’re usually past all those arctic temps. (More on this below!)
If you live in the mountains, I may wait a bit longer, depending on how cold your temperatures are and how much snow you have.
What growing conditions do pansies like?
Pansies grow well in dirt (or “soil” in garden lingo) that drains well and is rich in nutrients.
Many of us don’t have rich, well-draining soils in the intermountain west. But no worries! You can plant your pansies in pots with a good potting soil.
Western states (like Colorado) get intense sunlight, so it helps to plant your pansies someplace that faces east, whether it’s a patio, front porch or garden. These spots get morning sunlight, which isn’t as hard on pansies as afternoon sunlight.
If you’re planting pansies in afternoon sunlight, you may want to find a spot that gets “dappled” light (sunlight through tree branches) or a little shade (like a western-facing porch that gets some cover).
Can you plant your pansies directly in a west-facing or south-facing spot?
Sure!
Just know that as soon as temperatures heat up, your pansies may start looking stressed. You’d likely get a little more mileage out of them in an east-facing garden.
What kind of care do pansies need?
Pansies benefit from “deadheading” (trimming off dead blooms) and fertilizing. This keeps them looking good.
Look for a mild flower fertilizer with a 5-10-5 ratio. Those are the numbers you’ll see on the container. This ratio helps support root growth and encourage new flower blooms.
What to do when you bring your pansies home
It’s tempting to plant your pansies right away.
You got them to enjoy them, right?
But chances are they’ve been growing in a cozy, warm greenhouse. They’ve been living large in spa-like conditions, and they’re tender. Gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions can help them toughen up. In garden lingo, this is known as “hardening” your plants.
Otherwise, they may struggle.
You can find out how to harden pansies here.
Pansies can handle cold temps, but they DO have their limits.
Pansies that are healthy and have been planted a while can usually handle quick dips into the teens and single digits.
But newly-planted pansies can be more sensitive.
After a warm, sunny day in Colorado in the early spring, it’s easy to forget how cold it can get at night, so watch those nighttime temps.
While newly-planted pansies can usually tolerate a light frost, it helps to protect them (keep them warm) if your temperatures are going to drop below freezing.
You can find 6 ways to protect your flowers from frosts and freezes here.
PRO TIP: Keep your eye on the temps BEFORE you plant your pansies. If the weather forecast shows multiple days when temperatures are going to dip well below freezing, just hold off on planting them until you get through that cold spell.
Pansies don’t like hot weather.
Let’s say you live someplace with blazing hot summers, like our lower elevations in Colorado and Utah.
When temperatures start to rise, it’s a good idea to replace your pansies with flowers that are happier in the heat. Think of this like changing out your wardrobe from your spring clothes to your summer clothes.
For example, when summer arrives, I replace the pansies in my western-facing flowerpots with flowers that can handle the hot afternoon sun.
Do you have to replace your pansies?
Nope … but they’ll probably stop blooming in the heat, and they may look stressed.
Translation: They won’t look very good!
Pansies are treated as “annuals” in states like Colorado.
This means you’ll enjoy them for one growing season, but it’s unlikely they’ll return next year.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics
Colorado has 5 plant hardiness zones: 7, 6, 5, 4 and 3.
If you’re new to plant hardiness zones, they tell you whether your flower plants are likely to survive the coldest winter temperatures that are expected in your area and come back next year.
(For the full scoop on hardiness zones, check out: What is a plant hardiness zone? And why they matter.)
So, what plant hardiness zone is your Colorado garden? It depends on where you live, as you can see in the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for Colorado below. Scroll down this page for specifics.
Areas with warmer winters have higher zone numbers. They’re in green. Areas with colder winters have lower zone numbers. They’re in purple and pink.
Let’s look at plant hardiness zones in Colorado in broad strokes:
- If you live in the hottest parts of Colorado — like the southwest corner and parts of the Grand Junction area — you’re likely in plant hardiness zone 7. Surrounding areas are in zone 6.
- Much of the Front Range is in zone 5.
- But if you live in an urban corridor — like parts of Denver, Aurora, Boulder and Fort Collins, as well as parts of Colorado Springs — you’re likely in zone 6a. Buildings and concrete can heat things up. Much of Pueblo is in zone 6 too.
- At higher elevations, like up in the mountains, your plants often need to be able to withstand colder winter temperatures. (For every 1000 feet you go up in elevation in Colorado, temperatures drop about 3 to 4 degrees.) Your garden will likely have a lower plant hardiness zone number. The majority of mountain towns are in zone 4. Some are in zone 5 and a few are in zone 3.
There are exceptions to the “it gets colder as you go higher” guideline.
For example, if you live on a valley floor in Colorado, your garden can be up to 10-degrees COLDER than your neighbors on nearby hillsides or mountainsides.
Cold air slides down the slopes and settles on valley floors at night.
Another exception…
If you live on a north-facing slope, your garden may be a lot cooler and damper than the dry, heat-gathering gardens on south- and western-facing slopes.
And one more exception…
It’s possible to create “microclimates” in your garden that are warmer than the surrounding area. For example, you could include large boulders in your garden. Boulders and large rocks can radiate heat to surrounding plants and help block winds. Often times, flowers planted along the south and western sides of buildings or rock walls can receive more heat too.
Also worth noting… the USDA released an updated zone map for 2024.
With the new release, some parts of Colorado grew “warmer” in plant hardiness zones.
For example, my garden in the Front Range went from a 5b zone to a 6a zone. This means the lowest coldest temperatures that are expected where I live went from -15 degrees below zero to -10 degrees below zero.
But here’s something to consider. While our summer temperatures are getting hotter, it’s still possible that we can get a really cold winter. (Brutally cold winters just may not be as frequent.) Where I live, we’ve had winter temperatures reaching -15 degrees below zero and -17 degrees below zero in two of the last five years. Technically, these are still zone 5 temperatures. So, even though the USDA map says I’m 6a, I’m going to continue to think of my garden as zone 5. That way, I’m buying plants that are more likely to survive.
What’s the takeaway? Your local surroundings play a role.
The zone you’ll get from the USDA may not accurately reflect what’s going on in your individual garden in Colorado. You may want to adjust down a zone (for colder conditions) or up a zone (for warmer conditions). Just keep this in mind as you get your Colorado hardiness zone below!
To get the Colorado plant hardiness zone for your garden:
Click to the USDA website here and enter your zip code >>
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Gardening for Pollinators, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Most of these spring flowers are low maintenance too!
Let’s say you want to add a splash of color to your spring garden, but you live someplace dry, like Colorado or Utah. It would be nice to find spring flowers that don’t need a lot of watering, right? (Less work for you—and good for Mama Nature too!)
The question is: Are there drought-tolerant spring flowers? Yes!
Here are 5 drought-tolerant spring flowers that can grow well in sunny, dry gardens in Colorado, Utah and similar states. They’ll keep your watering and work to a minimum.
Most of these flowers get planted in the fall.
Crocus
Crocuses are drought-tolerant spring flowers that come in a variety of colors, like purple, white, gold, yellow and lavender.
You plant crocus bulbs (known as “corms”) in the fall, and they bloom early in the spring. Their early spring blooms are important because they can offer nectar and pollen for early emerging bees. Plus, it’s nice to see pretty color in your garden after a long winter.
These small flowers tend to look the showiest when you plant a mass of them together (“en masse” or “in drifts”). Crocuses also can look pretty when you plant them in small clumps of flowers. Just avoid planting them individually because you won’t get that showy splash of color.
Garden lingo bingo: Crocuses “naturalize” easily. This means they should increase in number and come back each year. Yesss!
Wildflower tulip
Wildflower tulips are another drought-tolerant spring flower for sunny, dry gardens.
They’re the smaller cousins of the showy tulips you’ll see in the spring. Wildflower tulips aren’t as flashy as their cousins, but they tend to be hardier, more reliable and last many more years.
These tulips are sometimes called “species tulips.” These lil’ guys are from the wild species of tulips.
Wildflower tulips have more of a natural, western vibe than their cousins. They’re a pretty addition to sunny rock gardens, front borders of gardens and natural-looking landscapes.
You can even plant them in “warm season” lawns—grass that doesn’t green up until it gets hot—like buffalo grass. Warm season lawns are usually drought tolerant and don’t need a lot of water, so wildflower tulips are a good match.
Wildflower tulips are a spring flowering bulb. You plant them in the fall, and they bloom in early- to mid-spring. They’re another spring flower that can “naturalize” in gardens. They should multiple and come back each year.
Pollinator tip! Wildflower tulips offer a good source of nectar and pollen for many hungry bees that are emerging after winter.
Muscari / grape hyacinth
First, a lil’ more garden lingo bingo…
In casual conversation, you’ll hear these flowers called both muscari and grape hyacinth. (Can you see their resemblance to small clusters of grapes in the photo above?) I suggest using the name: “muscari.” Why? Because there’s another spring flower known as a hyacinth too, but it isn’t related. It can get confusing.
Muscari are small flowers that bloom in mid-spring.
One of the most popular muscari (Muscari armeniacum) comes in a beautiful, deep blue color. Yes, blue! But you can find other colors too, including white, purple and yellow.
This is another flower that tends to look showiest when you plant quite a few of them together. I think they look pretty when they’re planted next to silver-leafed plants. I love the contrast.
Muscari are drought-tolerant spring flowering bulbs. You plant them in the fall, and they bloom in the spring. They can tolerate clay soil (the dirt that many of us have), as well as dry conditions. Very helpful for gardens in Colorado, Utah and the intermountain west!
This is another flower that will attract pollinators, like bees. They’ll naturalize too (coming back year after year).
Hybrid tulip
These are the classic tulips you’ll see in the spring. Typically, they don’t mind our dry conditions in states like Colorado and Utah.
Hybrid tulips can be short lived and a little unpredictable in the intermountain west. Some will only last a few years. But they sure are showy while you have them.
Worth noting… tulips are popular with more than just people. Critters love them too. If deer, rabbits, squirrels or other wildlife have been known to treat your garden as an all-you-can-eat buffet, you may want to skip tulips. Fending off critters may not be a low maintenance experience.
Hybrid tulips grow from bulbs that—yep, you guessed it—you plant in the fall.
Bearded iris
Bearded irises come in a full spectrum of colors—just about every color you can imagine!
They remind me of where I grew up in Michigan. I was excited to learn these late spring flowers also thrive in sunny, dry gardens in the West. I’ve seen bearded irises growing as far south as the Tucson Botanical Gardens in southern Arizona.
There are many things to like about bearded irises in semi-arid states like Colorado and Utah.
Bearded irises are drought tolerant, so they look good even with our low precipitation. You can grow them in our alkaline soils (our tricky western dirt). They’re rabbit resistant AND deer resistant, which means rabbits and deer prefer to eat other plants first. And overall, irises don’t like a lot of fuss.
Yay for low maintenance spring flowers!
Bearded irises don’t grow from a bulb. Instead, they grow from “rhizomes” you plant in July, August or September. Rhizomes look like narrow, little potatoes. A rhizome is actually a modified stem of the plant. (Isn’t nature cool?)
When you plant your irises from July to September, you’ll give them time to establish their roots before it gets too cold.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Jan 28, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
What can you do with the dirt in your pots after your flowers have died?
Good news! You have a few options for what to do with old potting soil.
Let’s assume, for a sec, your plants were healthy at the end of the season. If yes…
Here are 4 things to do with old potting soil:
1) You can put the soil in a sealable container. Store it outside for next season.
An old garbage can works well because the lid creates a good seal and the wheels make it easier to move. But any type of storage container that you can seal should work.
The nutritional value is gone from the soil, so you wouldn’t want to use it on its own next season. But next year, it’s possible to mix it together with fresh ingredients — like new potting soil or “compost.” Compost is a mix of organic materials used to improve soil.
This approach allows you to re-use some of your old potting soil.
Why use a sealable container?
- It helps keeps pathogens out — aka, things that could make your plants sick next year.
- It helps prevent insects from laying their eggs and overwintering in your soil. (Yep, it happens.)
- And it’s just an easy way to store it.
2) You may be able to take used potting soil to a yard waste drop-off program.
Many cities offer “leaf and yard waste drop-off” programs in the fall. They’re a great way to dispose of the materials from your flowerpots, like your dead flowers and old soils. And the materials you drop off will be used to create compost, which is good for our soils and plants.
The companies that do commercial composting have machines that can heat the soil and leaf material to very hot temperatures, so the compost can be safely used next year.
To see if your city offers this type of program:
- Look on your city’s website OR check nearby cities. Some cities only make these programs available to their own residents. But other towns make their leaf and yard-waste drop off services available to anyone.
- Search for words like, “Leaf drop-off,” or, “Yard-waste drop-off.” Often times, these programs aren’t advertised as composting programs.
- Read up on what’s allowed for yard waste. Dead flowers are usually allowed, but make sure they’ll take your used potting soil too. I usually take the potting soil with me and ask when I get there. (I’ve never had an issue, but I imagine it can vary by city.)
- Follow the instructions for the drop-off. For example, you may be asked to put your yard waste in brown composting bags. They look like tall paper bags. You often can find them at local hardware stores. Or, the instructions may say you can bring your yard waste in any type of container. They’re just going to have you dump it out — as was the case in the photo above.
3) You can add the old soil (and flowers) to your own compost pile.
Home composting is a topic for another time. But just know it’s another thing you can do!
4) You can mix old potting soil into your flower garden beds or spread it lightly across the top.
The dirt from your flowerpots isn’t adding anything beneficial from a nutritional perspective. Over the summer, all the good stuff left the soil with each watering.
But we have such tricky soils in the Rocky Mountain region — like clay and sand. The potting soil may help improve the structure of your soil in the ground. That can lead to better water drainage for your plants, so they have happier roots.
And hey, it beats putting the soil in a landfill.
Here are a few tips:
- It’s easiest to add old potting soil to areas that don’t have plants.
- But you also can spread a thin layer of potting soil on the ground near plants. Keep it away from the “crowns” of your plants. The crown is where a plant’s stem comes up from the ground. It’s where the stem and roots connect to each other.
- If you’re going to mix the old soil into the ground near existing plants like perennials (the plants that return each year), be careful where you dig. You don’t want to disturb any plant roots.
What if your flowers had disease issues at the end of the season?
Then, put ALL the contents from that flowerpot in the trash — including the potting soil.
Disease can carry over from one year to the next in both the soil AND on the flowerpots themselves. It’s possible to accidentally spread last season’s issues to next season’s flowers.
You also may want to sterilize your flowerpots, so you can keep next season’s flowers from getting sick.
Are you the extra-thorough type?
If you want to reuse some of your potting soil next year, it’s possible to sterilize your old potting soil to reduce insect and disease issues. The University of California Extension has helpful tips on how to heat up your potting soil to the right temperature. (Scroll to page 5 of their PDF.)
Full disclosure, I’ve never done this.
But it’s worth considering if you had disease or insect issues this year, and you really want to reuse your old potting soil.
Cheers to you for exploring what to do with old potting soil and finding ways to use it in a productive way!
Related tips that may interest you:
