by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
I received the following question from a gardener who moved to Colorado, and I thought, ooooh, that’s a good one!
“What plants struggle in Colorado?”
Here are some popular plants from other parts of the country that are best to skip in Colorado if:
- You don’t want extra work.
- You’d like to keep money in your wallet.
- You want to be smart with water.
- You’d like your Colorado landscape to consistently look good.
Let’s dig in!
Azaleas and rhododendrons
Azaleas and rhododendrons are flowering shrubs that thrive in parts of the country that get more rainfall and have acidic soil (dirt).You’ll see azaleas growing in gardens along the East Coast and gracing photos in Southern Living magazine. Rhododendrons are popular in the Pacific Northwest.
But azaleas and rhododendrons struggle in Colorado.
Why? Because our soil is too alkaline for them. It’s tough for these acid-loving plants to get the nutrients they need from the ground, and they decline in health.
You may see azaleas and rhododendrons in the box stores and think, “But they look so pretty!”
Keep on walking.
Those stores don’t always have plants that are well suited for our unique growing conditions in the Rocky Mountain region. Azaleas and rhododendrons will have a tough time looking pretty in the ground.
Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas are another type of flowering shrub. The majority don’t fare so well here… with a few exceptions.
But more importantly, hydrangeas need A LOT of water. Heck, they even have “hydra-” in their name!
Hydrangeas need up to 2 inches of water per week in hot and dry weather just to keep from wilting, according to the University of Massachusetts Amherst. Given how hot and dry our summers are, that’s about 20+ inches of moisture in July and August alone.
To put that in perspective, we get an average of 8-16 inches of moisture for the entire year at our lower elevations in Colorado. (The exact amount depends on where you live.) In contrast, Seattle and Chicago get close to 40 inches of moisture per year. Boston gets about 44 inches per year. And Atlanta and Orlando get around 50 inches per year.
Hydrangeas are beautiful… but typically, they are not a great fit for our semi-arid climate.
Boxwoods and arborvitaes
Boxwoods and arborvitaes are decorative landscape plants that are popular in other parts of the country. When they’re healthy, they (typically) keep their color all winter.
But here in Colorado, these evergreen shrubs and trees aren’t big fans of our winters, and they’ll let you know it!
I wrote a whole article on this topic: See why boxwoods and arborvitaes struggle in our Colorado winters >
Many types of maple trees
I grew up in a Midwestern state with beautiful maple trees, so this was a hard one for me when I first moved here.
But many maple trees have a hard time absorbing iron from our soils. They are prone to “iron chlorosis” in Colorado. Their leaves can turn chartreuse green, and they often need to be treated with iron annually, which means you’re shelling out money to a tree company.
They also can struggle in our drought, our big temperature swings and our heavy spring snowstorms.
If you have your heart set on a maple, check out Bigtooth Maples (Acer grandidentatum) and Tatarian Maples (Acer tataricum). Both have a stronger track record than other maples in Colorado. Bigtooth Maples are native to western Colorado and Utah.
So, what does all this mean for your Colorado garden?
You have a choice!
You can absolutely plant any of these plants if you really want to. But if you want an easier time, why not focus on plants that thrive in our western growing conditions?
There are plenty of beautiful western plants to choose from!
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
The tulips in your spring garden have given you gorgeous color. But what do you do with tulips after they’ve flowered?
They’re done blooming, and now your tulip leaves are turning yellow and flopping on the ground. They don’t look so great.
(This is normal, BTW! You haven’t done anything wrong.)
- Should you leave the tulip leaves?
- Should you cut the tulip leaves off?
- And if yes, when should you cut the tulip leaves?
These are the things we’re going to talk about in today’s tip!
Tulips go through an awkward period when they’re done blooming.
After tulips have flowered, their leaves turn yellow and flop on the ground.
But those fading leaves can make a BIG difference in how well your tulips bloom next year!
Here’s why:
Tulips grow from a bulb.
Think of the bulb like a battery and the leaves like solar panels.
When your tulips finish flowering, those leaves are gathering sunlight and turning it into food (and energy). Those solar panels are hard at work, even though they don’t look great.
Your tulips will use that food to get through next winter and next year’s bloom season.
The bulb is pulling all that food from the leaves back down into the bulb and storing it.
It’s recharging its battery.
If you cut the tulip leaves, you’re cutting off the solar panels.
The bulb won’t be able to recharge properly.
This means your tulips may not bloom as well next year.
It also means you may get smaller flowers or lackluster blooms.
When your tulip leaves are turning yellow and brown, you have several options.
#1: If you want pretty tulips next year, DO cut off the stem the flower was on, but DON’T cut off the leaves.
When you trim off the stems, you’re telling your tulips to focus their energy on making food for next season — recharging the battery!
Where do you trim the tulip stems?
Make your cut where the stem meets the leaves. You can wait until the petals fall off. Or you can cut the stems when the petals start shriveling up.
But fight the urge to cut off the leaves, even if they don’t look great.
You can put a flowerpot in front of your tulips to hide them. Or, you can grow other plants nearby to mask the leaves.
Don’t pull out those leaves until you can give them a gentle tug, and they come right out.
The leaves will likely be very yellow and limp.
If you give the leaves a gentle tug and they resist, they aren’t ready to come out yet.
They’re still helping the bulb recharge.
Another tip, don’t “wrap” the leaves.
You may see neighbors wrapping a rubber band around the leaves, tying them up into a little ball so they look tidier. Don’t do that. Remember, we want the leaves to act as solar panels. Tying up the leaves defeats this purpose.
#2: You can dig the tulip bulbs out.
Yep, you can dig the entire tulip out, including the bulbs in the ground.
The tradeoff is, you won’t have tulips next year unless you plant new bulbs in the fall.
But, if you really want your garden to look tidy and you don’t mind replanting your bulbs in the fall, it’s a great option.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Confession: I love blue flowers. There’s something about them that makes my heart sing. In Colorado, Utah, and similar states, we’re lucky to have a variety of waterwise, blue flowers available to us as perennials (plants that return for multiple years).
Here are 12 waterwise perennials with blue flowers to get you started. These drought-tolerant beauties can handle our tricky, western conditions—from low precipitation to summer heat.
SPRING BLOOMERS
Blue flax (Linum lewisii)
Zones 4-9
Blue flax is a “What’s that?” plant… as in, your neighbors will stop and ask about this drought-tolerant perennial. It has airy, ferny leaves and charming, blue flowers in May and June. The flowers can be pale blue, powder blue or sky blue. Flowers open in the morning and close in the evening.
Blue flax can reseed heavily if you let it go to seed—like a fairy godmother tossing pixie dust—so think about where you plant it. It prefers a lot of sunlight and well-drained soils.
If you’d like a blue flax that’s native to Colorado, Utah and Wyoming, Linum lewisii is the easiest one to find in stores and at plant exchanges. The Colorado State University Extension says it can grow at elevations up to 9,500 feet! If you aren’t picky on native origin, there are European blue flaxes available too, such as Linum perenne (zones 4b-8) and Linum narbonense (Zones 5-8).
Colorado desert bluestar (Amsonia jonesii)
Zones 4-9
Colorado desert bluestar has pale-blue flowers that look like stars. It blooms in April and May. During autumn, its leaves turn yellow, offering a splash of fall color.
Colorado desert bluestar thrives in hot, sunny and dry locations. It’s very waterwise. Worth noting, this perennial can take several years to grow in size, so consider buying a bigger plant to get started. Otherwise, plan on being patient for a few years. (It’s worth the wait.)
This perennial can be a hard one to find, so if you see it at the garden center or a plant exchange, snag it!
Blue penstemons / beardtongues (Penstemon)
Penstemons (aka, beardtongues) typically put on a colorful show in late spring and early summer gardens in the West. They thrive in hot and sunny locations. They can keep their green foliage through most of the year, including winter. These plants attract hummingbirds and bees.
There are a number of penstemons that have blue flowers, including:
- Grand Mesa penstemon (Penstemon mensarum) — native to Colorado and Utah (zones 3-9)
- Blue Mist penstemon (Penstemon virens) — native to Colorado and Wyoming (zones 4-8)
- Electric Blue penstemon (Penstemon heterophyllus ‘Electric Blue’) — a selection of a California native penstemon (zones 5-9)
- WAGGON WHEEL® bluemat penstemon (Penstemon caespitosus ‘P022S’) — a selection of a low-growing penstemon that’s native to Colorado, Utah, Wyoming and Arizona (zones 4-7)
All of the penstemons listed above thrive in waterwise gardens.
Muscari / grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum)
Zones 4-9
Muscari (aka, grape hyacinth) has deep-blue flowers that bloom in the middle of spring. It grows from a bulb you plant in the fall. It naturalizes easily in western gardens, so it can spread and come back year after year. Muscari is drought tolerant, making it a good addition to waterwise gardens. Plant it en masse for a big splash of color.
Muscari offers bees an early source of food before many other plants have started blooming.
Turkish veronica (Veronica liwanensis)
Zones 3-10
Turkish veronica is a low-growing groundcover. It gets tiny, blue flowers in May. Plant it among pavers and walkways for a pretty look or along the fronts of your garden beds.
Turkish veronica will grow in partly shady locations, as well as in sunny locations. (You’ll get more flowers in the sun.) The leaves are evergreen, meaning they typically stay green throughout the year, including winter. This plant takes low to average water.
There are variations of this perennial that have blue flowers as well. For example, CRYSTAL RIVER® veronica has lilac-blue flowers with a white center (zones 3-7), and SNOWMASS® blue-eyed veronica has white petals with blue centers (zones 3-10).
SUMMER BLOOMERS
Indigo blue dragonhead (Dracocephalum ruyschiana)
Zones 3-8
Indigo blue dragonhead gets blue flowers in the late spring/early summer. This perennial has vibrant-green foliage with needle-like leaves. I think it looks pretty when it’s paired with waterwise perennials that have silver foliage.
Indigo blue dragonhead is drought-tolerant and easy going. You can plant it in a variety of soils. It’s happiest in sunny locations.
Cape forget-me-not (Anchusa capensis ‘Cape Forget-Me-Not’)
Zones 5-10
Cape forget-me-not grows in full sun and part shade. In sunny locations, it prefers a little more water.
This attractive perennial from South Africa starts blooming in April, and it can bloom into the fall if you keep deadheading it. Honey bees love the sky blue flowers.
This waterwise, blue flower can be a shorter-lived perennial. If you want it to continue in your garden, let some of the spent flowers go to seed. With that said… it easily reseeds, so if you don’t want a lot of new plants, be sure to deadhead the spent blooms.
Prairie salvia (Salvia azurea)
Zones 5-9
Prairie salvia is a regionally native plant that gets blue flowers on tall stems in mid- to late summer. It’s a prairie plant that attracts pollinators, like bumble bees and hummingbirds.
This waterwise perennial grows well in our tricky western soils, from clay to sand. It doesn’t need a lot of water, and it’s happiest in sunny gardens. If you plant it in rich garden soils (meaning your dirt has a lot of organic material in it), it can get floppy.
Prairie salvia looks lovely when it’s planted among ornamental grasses, like little bluestem, and goldenrods.
Blue Glow globe thistle (Echinops bannaticus ‘Blue Glow’)
Zones 3-8
Blue Glow globe thistle produces round flowers—blue globes—in the middle of summer. The round flowers create an interesting focal point in waterwise gardens, creating contrast with other plants. This perennial can get reasonably tall (up to four feet tall), so plant it in the middle or back of your garden. It thrives in sunny, hot and dry locations, and it can bloom for a long time.
This beauty attracts a range of pollinators, including honey bees and bumble bees. In my garden, I’ve seen hummingbirds visiting it as well.
When you see the word, “thistle,” you may think, “Eeek, is this the bad kind of thistle?” Blue Glow echinops isn’t the invasive type of thistle, but it can reseed. If you don’t want it taking over neighboring plants, deadhead it when it’s done blooming.
Blue Glitter sea holly (Eryngium planum ‘Blue Glitter’)
Zones 4-9
Another waterwise plant with interesting flowers!
Blue Glitter sea holly gets blue, spiny flowers on blue stems in the middle of summer. It thrives in sunny, dry locations. (You’ll find other sea holly plants on the market, but they aren’t always as drought tolerant as Blue Glitter.)
My neighbors ask me about this plant every summer. I’m partial to it because it looks unusual, and it’s a party for pollinators, including native bees, beneficial wasps and butterflies.
FALL BLOOMERS
Autumn Sapphire sage (Salvia reptans ‘P016S’)
Zones 5-10
There are a couple of waterwise, blue flowers that shine in the fall, including Autumn Sapphire sage. This drought-tolerant perennial adds a pop of color in September and October when other flowers have stopped blooming. Plus, it’s a source of nectar and pollen for late-season pollinators, including bees and butterflies.
Autumn Sapphire sage has willowy, green leaves. It looks lush and green in July and August, despite our heat in Colorado and Utah. Small, sapphire-blue flowers cover this plant in early fall. It can bloom until frost.
I think it’s pretty when it’s paired with hyssops (Agastache), western salvias and ornamental grasses.
Hardy plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides)
Zones 5-9
Hardy plumbago is another late-season bloomer. It gets bright blue flowers in the late summer and early fall in Colorado. Hardy plumbago is a groundcover, growing up to 8 inches tall and spreading about 18 inches wide.
Hardy plumbago will happily flower in the shade. Known as a “dry shade” plant in Colorado and Utah, hardy plumbago doesn’t need a lot of water in the shade. (You can plant it in the sun too, but it will be happier with more water in the sun.)
Another bonus… Hardy plumbago’s leaves turn a deep red color in the fall, adding an extra pop of color to your fall landscape. In the photo above, the leaves have started changing color.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Garden design Ideas, Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Reader note: I first published this article in January 2022, but the content is still relevant and timely!
I feel strange saying, “garden trends,” because it implies a fad.
Here today, gone tomorrow—like paint colors in a home or trendy flower colors.
I’m not here to tell you that violet is the new purple in your garden.
Instead, think of these 5 western garden trends as where landscaping is going in Colorado, Utah and the intermountain west.
These are movements that will shape our gardens today—and well into the future. Use these garden trends to inspire you as you think about your western landscape and the plants you choose.
#1: Naturalism is in.
When you think of a traditional garden, what comes to mind? Many people think of formal gardens like they have on the East Coast and Midwest.
Tidy rows of plants. Shaped hedges. Lots of symmetry. (You know, like the photos in magazines.)
But there’s a trend to create gardens that reflect more of our natural environment.
With “naturalism,” there’s a relaxed ebb and flow to the plants.
These gardens are reminiscent of what you may see in nature, like in a high plains prairie or in a mountain meadow.
If you’d like to embrace a more natural look in your garden in Colorado, Utah or a similar state, here are a few ways to start:
- Let go of symmetry.
- Plant your flowers in drifts or clumps. (This is good for pollinators too!)
- Intermingle low-growing plants (like groundcovers) among larger, structural plants.
- Integrate parts of the natural landscape into your garden design, such as boulders, rocks or tree trunks.
- Choose plants that thrive in our tricky western conditions. (More on this below!)
#2: Pollinator gardens are growing in popularity.
Bring on the bees, butterflies, birds and more! People are taking an interest in pollinator gardens—which is helpful with many types of pollinators at risk.
I used to think, “But I already have bees in my garden.”
I didn’t really get it.
What I’ve learned in recent years it that not all bees were created equal.
Commonplace bees are becoming more common, while rare bees are becoming more rare.
Some bees are generalists. They’ll seek nectar and pollen from a variety of plants. They aren’t picky.
But we also have specialist bees, and some are rare. They tend to prefer a very narrow palette of plants.
The same principle is true of other pollinators.
For example, Monarch butterflies use a specific plant (Milkweed — aka, Asclepias) to host and feed their young. That’s it! Just one type of plant.
The idea behind a pollinator garden is that you create an environment that attracts and nurtures a variety of species, including the rare ones.
Biodiversity, baby!
Want to create a pollinator-friendly garden? Check out: “How do I attract bees and butterflies to my garden?”
#3: Gardening with native plants is getting lots of buzz.
For many decades, if you’d walk into a western garden center, you’d find perennials (the flowers that come back each year) that were ideal for high-moisture regions of the U.S., like the Midwest and East Coast.
Not so great for our semi-arid gardens in Colorado, Utah and the intermountain West!
Today, there’s a big push to include “native plants” in western landscapes. Native plants have been around for a looooong time—usually before European settlement.
Native plants are “ecologically adapted” to where you live. They can tolerate your soil (dirt) and local climate. They tend to be resistant to disease and troublesome insects. They create a sense of place. They feel like the West and reflect where we live.
And most importantly, native plants are excellent plants for native bees and other pollinators—especially pollinators that are in decline. They’ve evolved together.
TIP: If you’d like to learn about plants that are native to where you live, visit your state’s Native Plant Society website. To find it, search for: [your state] native plant society.
#4: “Waterwise” gardens are smart gardens.
This isn’t a new gardening trend, but it’s an important one here in the semi-arid West—especially as more of us go through sustained periods of drought.
The idea behind waterwise gardens is that you:
- Choose plants that don’t need a lot of moisture to survive.
- Group plants with similar watering needs together, so you can be efficient in your irrigation. (Good for your water bill — and Mama Nature too!) In other words, you avoid placing plants that prefer lots of water next to ones that need very little water.
This doesn’t mean your yard has to look like a desert. You can still have a gorgeous flower garden!
But it does mean you may need to think differently about your plant choices. For example, a big part of waterwise gardens is embracing native plants that can tolerate drought.
You also may want to learn about waterwise plants that thrive in our sister climates. These are plants from “high steppe” regions of the world that share our growing conditions.
For example, did you know that plants that are native to Patagonia, Central Asia and the steppe region of South Africa often grow well in states like Colorado and Utah?
Yep, our gardens have more in common with Patagonia than Pittsburgh.
(Explains a few things, right?)
Does this mean you can’t plant flowers you love from other parts of the country?
Nope!
But it does help to understand that not every plant is a good fit for semi-arid gardens.
The good news is there are some plants that many people know from other places that grow well in states like Colorado. For example, bearded irises and lilacs tend to be drought tolerant and can thrive in our tough, western growing conditions.
Looking for inspiration for drought-tolerant plants? The western plant introduction program—Plant Select—has a variety of western native plants and plants from sister regions of the world.
#5: Lawn/turf conversions are becoming more common.
I recently crossed paths with a homeowner from Park City, Utah. She was telling me that Park City residents are allotted a finite amount of water per household each year. If you exceed that amount, you have to pay a BIG financial penalty.
Yikes!
She said they pay close attention to their monthly water bill. They’ve also rethought their lawn. They still have some areas of lawn, but only where it makes sense.
As more people are looking for ways to get smart with their water use (whether it’s to save money or do good for Mama Nature), there’s a growing interest in replacing portions of traditional lawns with turf alternatives, like:
- Drought-tolerant perennials (the flowers that return year after year) and native plants
- Waterwise groundcovers
- Turf grasses that thrive in hot temperatures
These new alternatives to traditional lawns “allow homeowners to cut back on pesticides, fertilizers, mowing and watering,” says the National Wildlife Federation.
Yes, please!
Many of us have lawn grasses that thrive in cooler, damper parts of the country.
Kentucky Bluegrass, for example, is a common lawn grass in the Front Range of Colorado. It’s a “cool season” grass. It thrives in cool temperatures ranging from 40 to 70 degrees—typically going dormant in our summer heat.
Kentucky Bluegrass can be a good lawn grass for yards that get a lot of activity (like if you have young kids).
But many of us have parts of our landscape that just aren’t used that much.
In this case, it may make sense to rethink what’s planted there.
There are some types of “heat tolerant” turf grasses that do much better in hot and dry locations, like blue grama grass, buffalo grass, and special types of Bermuda grass, like Dog Tuff™ grass and Tahoma31.
These grasses thrive in hot temperatures. They are known as “warm season” grasses. This means they grow and green up when temperatures warm up. They use significantly less water than Kentucky bluegrass, and they rarely need to be mowed. (Less work for you!)
These types of lawns may be good solutions for parts of your yard that:
- Get lots of sunlight. (Heat tolerant grasses often don’t grow well in shade.)
- Don’t get heavy foot traffic.
- Don’t have mature trees nearby that may need more water.
Dog Tuff™ Grass is an example of a heat tolerant grass. Photo credit: Kelly Grummons. Photo courtesy of Plant Select.
I’ve transformed unused parts of my traditional lawn into waterwise gardens with a lot of native plants. Maybe you’ll be doing the same!
If you’d like to learn more about why turf conversions are beneficial, the National Wildlife Federation has an insightful article called: A Farewell to Lawns—Native turf-grass alternatives can reduce your environmental footprint while supporting birds, butterflies and other living creatures.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics
Have you noticed…
… that some of your plants are overachievers in the spring—eager to emerge from the ground in all their leafy glory? Meanwhile, other plants don’t seem to be doing much AT ALL.
As plant lovers, it’s natural for us to look at the latter and wonder:
Hey, are you even alive?
Did we do something wrong?
Wait, are you ghosting us??
The biggest culprits are often ornamental grasses.
Ornamental grasses are the showy grasses you plant in your garden for year-round interest.
Some grasses burst from the ground in the spring looking all green and lush.
Others? Not so much.
They’re more like teenagers on a Saturday morning: S-L-O-W to wake up.
I had a neighbor stop me in early April and glumly share: “I don’t think my ornamental grasses made it through winter.” (I think she took it personally.) But nope, her grasses are alive and well! Just slow to wake up.
So, if you’ve ever wondered, “Why aren’t my ornamental grasses growing?”, here’s a helpful thing to understand about grasses.
Some grasses grow when temperatures are mild. These “cool season” grasses are off to the races in the spring. Then, they go dormant when it gets hot, meaning they aren’t actively growing over the summer.
Other grasses are in their happy place in the heat. These “warm season” grasses green up when it gets hot, like in the late spring and summer.
Want some examples?
You may recognize the ornamental grass below: Karl Foerster feather reed grass. It’s used in a lot of landscapes. It’s a popular ornamental grass that thrives in mild temps. It goes dormant in the summer heat.
The lawn grass, Kentucky bluegrass, is a cool season grass too. It grows in cooler temps, going dormant in the summer heat.
Little bluestem grass, blue grama grass, and switchgrass are all examples of warm season grasses. They thrive in the heat.
So, if your ornamental grasses aren’t growing in the spring…
They may be warm season grasses that are waiting for the heat.
If your ornamental grasses aren’t growing in the summer…
They may be cool season grasses that have gone dormant in the heat. They may be waiting for cool temperatures to return.
The Colorado State University Extension has a table that notes which ornamental grasses are cool season and which are warm season. You can use it to check the grasses in your own garden. (Unfortunately, the chart doesn’t have photos, so you need to know what kind of grasses you have. If you saved your plant tags, great!)
If you’re interested in the science behind cool and warm season grasses, the University of Illinois Extension has a quick write-up.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Flower Garden Basics, In-ground garden
Spring can be one of the best times to plant perennials — the flowers that come back.
“Cool temps are ideal for planting perennials…” wrote David Salman, respected western plantsman of Waterwise Gardening LLC, in 2022. “Perennials thrive in cool weather, putting their energy into growing robust root systems.”
And healthy root systems lead to healthy plants!
When you plant your perennials on mild spring days with cool nights, their roots have a chance to get a head start before summer. They’re better prepared when our roasty summer temps arrive.
So, the question is:
When should you plant perennials in the spring?
I’d love to give you a simple answer—or better yet, a date.
Yep, a specific date would be nice. But Mama Nature makes her own rules, and she can be a fickle gal, especially in Colorado and similar western states. Plus, it depends on where you live and what you’re planting.
Nevertheless, here are helpful guidelines.
You should be able to plant perennials when all of the following occur:
1) Your ground isn’t frozen.
According to the Colorado State University (CSU) Extension, you should theoretically be able to plant hardy perennials when you can work the soil (your dirt). In other words, you can get a shovel in the ground.
If the ground isn’t frozen, your plants’ roots also should have access to water.
In the Front Range of Colorado, this is often April.
2) The ground isn’t too damp.
Digging in wet dirt can compact your soil. (This is a fancy way of saying: You can accidentally smoosh your dirt.)
Compaction is a common issue in clay soil—which many of us have in Colorado and the intermountain west. It can cause problems that last a long time. For example, compacted soil can make it tough for water and air to get to your plants’ roots.
If you’ve been getting snow or rain, hold off on digging in the dirt. Let your soil dry for a bit.
3) Your perennials have been actively growing outside for a while.
This is important. Let’s dig into why.
Perennials that have been growing outside are tougher. They’re better equipped to handle the intense sunlight, drying winds and yo-yo temperature swings that we can get in Colorado and similar states.
In contrast, perennials that have been growing inside are tender. They’ve had warm, comfy conditions—like their own spa. They aren’t used to outdoor conditions yet.
Greenhouse plants are more vulnerable to sunburn outside (yep, that’s a thing), as well as frost and freeze damage. They can become stunted, weak or die. These flowers “are best planted after the danger of frost has passed in the spring,” says the CSU Extension.
When you bring home perennials that have been growing indoors, it’s also a good idea to toughen them up before you plant them outdoors. This is known as “acclimating” or “hardening off” your flowers. Here’s how to harden off flower plants.
On a related note, if most of the plants in your garden are still dormant (winter hibernation mode) and you see leafy perennials at the store, it’s too early to buy those plants… unless they’re going straight into a greenhouse at your house. Those leafy, greenhouse perennials will not do well in our spring freezes in Colorado.
4) Your temperatures are mild rather than hot.
Moving your flowers from their nursery pots to the ground can be stressful for your plants. And hot temperatures can add to your plants’ stress.
Look for days with mild temperatures to plant your perennials. Avoid planting on summer-like days in the spring, if possible. Cloudy days can be excellent days to plant.
Here’s my approach to planting perennials in the spring in Colorado.
I live in the Front Range of Colorado.
Typically, I’ll start moving and dividing perennials that are already planted in my garden in early April, depending on the weather. The ground usually isn’t frozen and these plants have been growing in my garden, so I know they’re used to the conditions.
If we’ve been getting a lot of snow or rain, I’ll hold off on moving plants to avoid planting in wet soil. I don’t want to compact my soil (smoosh my dirt).
Depending on the weather, I’ll bring home new perennials starting in late April. I harden off the perennials I get from mail-order websites and garden centers before I plant them. Tip: If you see plants outside at a store and you don’t know if they just arrived from a greenhouse or not, I would err on the side of hardening your plants.
We can get yo-yo temperature swings in Colorado in the spring, from summer-like days, to freezing cold nights. So, I keep my eyes on the forecast. If the forecast says temps could drop into the upper 20s (or below) or we could get snow (because, yay, it’s Colorado), I’ll typically wait to plant them. I protect my leafy, newly-purchased perennials from freezes.
Gardening is both science and intuition.
I have a gardening friend who shared an observation I adore:
Gardening is both science and intuition. What works for one gardener may not work for the next.
If you want to know when you should plant perennials in the spring in Colorado (or a similar state), I hope these guidelines help you hone in on what works well for your western garden.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
Your spring flowers look as happy as kids on the first day of vacation… and then, you see the weather forecast: SNOW.
Ugh.
The good news is…
Spring flowering bulbs — like tulips and daffodils (pictured below) — are surprisingly resilient. Snow can be a good insulator for plants. And yes, I know we need the water.
So, if you’re wondering, “Will snow kill spring flowers, like tulips?”, the good news is it’s extremely unlikely.
(Phew, right?)
The bad news is…
Heavy spring snows can make a mess of tulips and daffodils that have started flowering.
Depending on how much snow you get, it can weigh down, smoosh or break your flowers, ending your pretty blooms for this year.
Temperatures can be an issue too
Cold temperatures (like a hard freeze) can ruin the blooms on some spring flowers, including the buds that haven’t quite opened yet.
I want my flower blooms to last as long as they can
That’s why I prefer to protect some of my spring flowers that are blooming — or are just about to bloom.
When my tulips or daffodils are blooming and there’s more than a dusting of snow in the forecast, I choose to cover them with tall buckets, empty flowerpots, frost tents, etc.
I do this so they don’t get crushed by the snow. That way, I still have flower blooms when the snow is over.
I keep my eye on the low temperatures too
Some spring flowers are more sensitive than others to freezing temperatures.
In my garden, allium and tulips tend to be the most sensitive. You can see an example of allium below.
I’ve had enough flower buds (the blooms that haven’t opened yet) get dinged by hard freezes in the spring that I like to protect them.
When I see nighttime temperatures dipping and dancing into the mid-20s (or below) in the forecast, I’ll cover my allium and tulips — focusing on the ones that are blooming and the ones that have flower buds.
I’ve never gotten a freeze or hard frost that’s killed my spring plants. Rather, I just don’t get flower blooms that year. I have to wait until next year.
So, when I’m covering my spring flowers, I’m trying to protect that season’s blooms.
Do you have to cover your spring flowers when snow is coming?
Nope! Depending on your snowfall and how naturally protected your flowers are, they may be just fine. It’s all a matter of how proactive you want to be.
I don’t worry about my tulips when they’re just leaves
If my tulips are coming up and they only have leaves (but no buds or blooms yet), I don’t cover them.
Personally, I also don’t worry about the early spring bloomers, like crocuses below. Those lil’ dudes are tough!
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
I first published this article in 2022. I hope you find it helpful today!
I would love to introduce you to Ann Winslow. (Yep, another Ann!) She spent time creating a native pollinator garden in her Colorado yard during the Covid shutdown in 2020.
She wanted to attract more pollinators—like native bees and hummingbirds—to her yard, so she decided to create a garden using native plants.
If you’re new to native plants…
They are plants that have naturally existed in an area for hundreds of years. They weren’t introduced through the European settlers.
Many of the flower plants we find at the garden center can trace their heritage back to places like the East Coast or Europe, where the climate, local insects and wildlife can be quite different.
Native western plants offer high-quality sources of food and shelter for native bees, butterflies, birds and more. These plants and critters have evolved together and sometimes depend on each other.
Ann kindly agreed to let me interview her and share her story—from her tips on creating a native pollinator garden in Colorado, to the lessons she learned, to what she would do differently next time.
Go West Gardener (GWG): Ann, thanks so much for sharing your garden with me today.
Ann Winslow: My pleasure!
GWG: Why did you decide to create your garden?
Ann W: I wanted to attract and support native pollinators.
I’ve read several books by a man named Doug Tallamy that were life changing for me. His recent book, Nature’s Best Hope, is all about how to create environments in our yard that are supportive to pollinators. He suggests looking at our yards as small national parks that can serve as wildlife habitats.
GWG: When did you create your native pollinator garden?
Ann W: Back in 2020 during the summer of the lockdown. It was a crazy time, but it was wonderful therapy to be creating a garden in Colorado.
GWG: So true! I think a lot of us spent time outside in our yards. Have you ever created a pollinator garden before?
I created a waterwise garden at my last house, but no, this was my first time trying anything like this.
GWG: I understand that some of your yard was lawn before you started. How did you go about getting rid of your grass?
Ann W: We hired a local guy who dug it up with shovels.
The garden bed existed from the previous homeowners, but we changed the shape and took out some grass. We also took out the turf grass on our property next to our neighbor’s house.
And my husband and I removed most of the existing shrubs and an overgrown arborvitae.
GWG: How did you go about figuring out which native plants you wanted to include in your garden?
Ann W: I looked for plants that were native to Colorado first. Then, I branched out to plants that were native to our region of the country.
I started with the plants that the Colorado Native Plant Society and the Colorado State University Extension talk about on their websites. I also looked at the City of Boulder website because they have helpful information for their citizens.
I used Plant Select too.
Plant Select is a non-profit collaboration between Denver Botanic Gardens and Colorado State University. They test and select plants that thrive in the high plains and intermountain west, including native plants.
The main thing I looked for was whether the plant had a simple flower that pollinators could get into. If a flower bloom is too profuse, sometimes the pollinators can’t get in there.
Photo caption: Several of the plants in Ann’s native pollinator garden in Colorado
GWG: What if people don’t have a lot of time to do research on native plants?
Ann W: I got a Garden in a Box from Resource Central for one of my other gardens, and it was a great solution. It’s a pre-planned garden for Colorado, and it comes with a design for your plants. Many of their pre-planned gardens include native plants.
GWG: Did you do anything special to get your garden ready for your plants?
Ann W: The native plants that I planted on the south side of my house like drier conditions. So, the only thing I did was mix about one-third expanded shale into some of the plant holes I was digging. I found the expanded shale at Harlequin’s Gardens in Boulder.
Expanded shale is like a lightweight, porous gravel that can get mixed into the soil [dirt] to help with water drainage and soil oxygen.
I have heavy clay soil. My prairie plants seem to love the clay—I think that may be why my prairie zinnia is doing so well.
But for some of my other plants, they need better drainage and more air around their roots. That’s where the expanded shale helps.
GWG: How did you go about designing your native pollinator garden? Did you hire a landscape designer?
Ann W: No, I didn’t hire a designer. I went online for designs.
I was looking for something similar to what I wanted to do in my garden, which was to extend the bed into a large semi-circle. I looked for similar designs and got some plant ideas from there. I also looked at how they placed plants.
The Colorado Native Plant Society has some simple designs for various regions across Colorado. They have ones for the plains, the foothills, the montane region and more. I looked at their designs for the plains and foothills and worked with those.
The City of Fort Collins had designs online. And Plant Select has garden designs online too.
And I recently saw that Wild Ones Front Range has a native garden design on their website too.
GWG: Knowing what you know now, what would you do differently if you could go back in time?
Ann W: If I could go back, I would take more time with upfront planning.
I’d tell myself to take the time to really get to know my site and what kind of sunlight it gets. Go outside several times per day and at different points in the spring and summer to see how the sunlight is. Be aware of how things may shade the garden, like overhangs from your house or trees that may be 10 feet away.
I thought I knew my sunlight, but I think being more thorough would have been helpful. I have some plants reaching for the sun and others that didn’t make it because they didn’t get enough sun.
GWG: That’s a great tip. What else?
Ann W: I’d also tell myself to buy fewer plants and see how things go.
I think I overbought, and having invested the money, I felt like I needed to get all the plants in the ground. I ended up planting things too close together. The blue flax [flowers] are not as pretty as they could be because the plants are so close together. They’re one large mass. Their lovely shape and ferny look can’t be appreciated.
And I’d pay more attention to how irrigation affects the garden, even if we aren’t directly spraying it with water. Many native plants prefer low water, so you have to be careful with how the irrigation system for your lawn butts up to your garden.
And how does your neighbor’s watering affect your plants? Does their water drift over? We have a few plants that are probably getting more water than they prefer and may not live as long.
GWG: I’ve never thought about how my neighbor’s sprinklers can affect my plants, but I can see how that’s important to consider. On the topic of water, how often do you water?
Ann W: I haven’t watered the entire garden once this season [as of late June 2022], even with the heat and dry periods we’ve had this summer in Colorado.
But I have watered some individual plants—like anything that’s newly planted, the hyssop [Agastache rupestris] so it has plenty of blooms for the hummingbirds, and a native bee balm [Monarda fistulosa] that just showed up.
But even with those plants, I’ve only watered them maybe once a week if we haven’t had a soaking rain.
GWG: Wow, that’s awesome! What about when you first planted your garden?
Ann W: That first summer, I watered the plants by hand just about every day from June to mid-July to help them get established.
After that, I cut back the watering to about twice a week.
GWG: What’s your favorite plant in your native pollinator garden and why?
Ann W: I’d have to say chocolate flower [Berlandiera lyrata]. It’s a profuse bloomer. The pollinators love it. It smells good…
GWG: Like chocolate!
Ann W: Yes!
It’s very hardy, and it spreads.
I also really love the blue flax [Linum lewisii]. You don’t find a lot of flowers that are blue. I like the airiness, and the small bees seem to really like it.
GWG: What are some of the other plants that are thriving in your garden?
Ann W: The prairie zinnia [Zinnia grandiflora] is thriving.
The blue grama grass [Bouteloua gracilis]—it’s given us numerous volunteers.
The Kannah Creek buckwheat [Eriogonum umbellatum var. aureum]. It has a beautiful, mounding shape. It has yellow flowers in the spring, and then the foliage turns burgundy in the fall through winter.
The Sunset hyssop [Agastache rupestris]. I’ve seen hummingbirds visiting it.
The hummingbirds also like the Furman’s Red sage [Salvia greggii] and the red yucca [Hesperaloe parviflora].
And the blanket flower [Gaillardia aristata]. It’s a prolific bloomer, and the bees like it. I’ve seen Spotted Towhees [western birds] scratching around it, looking for insects.
GWG: What do you like most about having a native pollinator garden in Colorado?
Ann W: It’s the pollinators. Because it’s alive, it fills my heart with joy. I feel like I’m helping in some tiny way.
We see a lot of variety in the bees visiting the garden. Big bees. A lot of small, native bees. You can see hundreds of insects buzzing around in the late-day sunlight.
And we get those Spotted Towhees [western birds]. That’s been a bonus we didn’t expect.
GWG: What advice do you have for people who’d like to create a native pollinator garden?
Ann W: I’d say do your research.
Talk to people who are knowledgeable about native plants. I think it would have been helpful if someone had said, ‘You have too many plants in here and it’s going to get really crowded. You need to take some plants out.’
You just want to pop all the plants in the ground and say, “Go do your thing!” but it does take some thinking and planning.
GWG: I can relate to that. It’s tempting to want to jump into buying plants, but planning makes things easier later. What other tips do you have?
Ann W: I’d say write down what your plants are and keep track of what you’re learning. You will make mistakes. That’s been hard for me to acknowledge. I’m a perfectionist—I want to get it right from the start.
The magical thing about it is you see what nature does on its own. You find yourself saying, “Wow, I did nothing to that and look what happened.” That’s another reason it may be a good idea to not buy too many plants in the beginning.
GWG: And you mentioned irrigation earlier…
Ann W: Yes, think about your irrigation.
If you want to remove your grass but you have trees, you need to have a drip irrigation system for your trees, so they can still get water. Group your plants together by their water needs.
And talk to your neighbors upfront and tell them what you’re doing.
Initially, the neighbors next door weren’t very excited about what we were doing. You have to turn your sprinkler system off while you’re creating the garden, and our lawn suffered for a little while. But we talked to them and explained what we were doing, and they were okay.
By mid-summer, the lawn was fine.
GWG: What kind of reaction do you get from neighbors now?
Ann W: People stop by and say, “That’s really pretty!”
GWG: I agree with your neighbors, Ann, and it’s cool to see so many types of bees. Thank you for sharing your great tips for creating a native pollinator garden in Colorado.
Ann W: It’s been a pleasure to talk with you about this!
If you love having a garden…
… that’s buzzing with activity (hummingbirds, butterflies, bees or other pollinators) or you want to create a garden with pollinators in mind (many of whom are losing their natural habitat), put native plants on your radar.
You can start from scratch like Ann did.
Or, you can simply work native plants into your garden as you can, especially if you have an existing garden. These plants are surprisingly adaptable to different garden styles.
And if you’d like to learn more about Ann’s yard transformation…
… she wrote a series of articles about her experiences below:
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Mar 20, 2026 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Let’s say you’re thinking about planting a perennial garden in Colorado or a similar western state, so you can enjoy colorful flowers year after year. Yesssss!
Before you head to the garden center, here are a few things to know to get your western garden off to an amazing start—and some of these tips may not be what you expect.
1) Many perennials from other parts of the country aren’t the ideal fit for our growing conditions.
Growing flowers in Colorado, Utah, Idaho and similar states can be an adventure.
We have tricky soils (dirt), intense sunlight, roller coaster temperature swings, drying winds and low moisture. These conditions leave us grabbing for bottles of moisturizer and suntan lotion.
And they can be tough on plants too.
Flowers that thrive in places like the East Coast—where they get 40+ inches of moisture per year and have fertile, acidic soils—often aren’t a great match for our it-hasn’t-rained-in-2-months western gardens.
Instead, it helps to look for perennials that prefer the local growing conditions in your yard.
Before you buy flowers you know from other parts of the country (and yes, you’ll see them at the big box stores), explore flowers that grow well here. Check out websites like: PlantSelect.org, WaterwisePlants.org, and the Colorado Native Plant Society.
When you choose the right plants for the right places in your yard, you’ll be able to put your feet up and enjoy the beauty you’ve created—rather than making more work for yourself and racking up a hefty watering bill.
Speaking of watering…
2) Even drought-tolerant flowers need to be well watered their first year.
I learned this one the hard way when I planted my first perennial garden in Colorado.
Ahem.
Drought-tolerant flowers are plants that don’t need a lot of water to grow. However, they aren’t ready for our semi-arid conditions as soon as they’re planted. It isn’t instant.
Typically, they need consistent watering during their first growing season while their roots are getting established in the ground. Then, you can reduce how much you water them.
3) Buying smaller plants can (usually) give you bigger impact quickly.
Yep, you read that right.
There are perks to buying plants in smaller pots at the garden center, rather than getting the big, showy plants you see in larger containers. For example, smaller perennials with good root systems are known for getting established and growing faster than big plants.
Here’s why:
When your plants are small, they can put their energy into establishing their roots. And plants with healthy roots are more likely to survive our tough climate and push out new growth quickly.
(Not to mention… Smaller plants usually cost less and don’t use as much plastic in their containers. Win, win!)
Bigger plants, on the other hand, have more physiological stress after they’ve been planted. They have to support ALL the leaf, stem and flower growth that’s already on the plant.
And our climate doesn’t help.
Our high-elevation sunlight, semi-arid conditions and drying winds pull the water right out of them. Bigger plants can wilt or become stunted because they don’t have strong enough roots yet to support all of their above-ground growth.
So, when you head to the garden center to buy perennials, what plant size should you buy?
Denver Botanic Gardens suggests choosing perennials in quart-size containers. Quart-size containers are the pots you can hold in one hand. (You can find more of their western best practices for gardens here.)
4) Many western plants prefer soil (dirt) that isn’t rich and fertile.
Your soil—aka, your dirt—plays a big role in how happy and healthy your plants are.
In traditional agriculture, if you want to improve your soil, you typically add compost. (Compost is organic matter you can buy at the store or make at home from materials like leaves and food scraps.)
And yes, compost can be helpful, especially when you’re growing vegetables or perennials that thrive in other parts of the country, like the East Coast or the Pacific Northwest. These plants often like fertile soils.
But in western states like Colorado and Utah, this isn’t always the case. It depends on the types of plants you’re growing.
Drought-tolerant western flowers often prefer “leaner” soils that drain well. Lean soils may have a little organic material in them—but not much.
So what’s the takeaway here? If you’re planting a perennial garden in Colorado or Utah with western plants, the way that you get your soil ready will likely be different than if you’re planting a vegetable garden or a traditional perennial garden.
5) It may take a few years for your flower garden to reach its full glory. (This is normal.)
Perennials can take up to 3 years to reach their full size.
I mention this because it’s natural to plant a perennial garden in Colorado or Utah, and think, “This flower garden doesn’t look ANYTHING like my neighbors’ gardens.”
Trust the process. Your plants will grow, but it can take a year (or two) for your plants to get established.
Resist the urge to plant your flowers closer than is suggested. This will create more work for you later.
You’ll have a beautiful flower garden before you know it.
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