by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Sep 12, 2025 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
What can you do with the dirt in your pots after your flowers have died?
Good news! You have a few options for what to do with old potting soil.
Let’s assume, for a sec, your plants were healthy at the end of the season. If yes…
Here are 4 things to do with old potting soil:
1) You can put the soil in a sealable container. Store it outside for next season.
An old garbage can works well because the lid creates a good seal and the wheels make it easier to move. But any type of storage container that you can seal should work.
The nutritional value is gone from the soil, so you wouldn’t want to use it on its own next season. But next year, it’s possible to mix it together with fresh ingredients — like new potting soil or “compost.” Compost is a mix of organic materials used to improve soil.
This approach allows you to re-use some of your old potting soil.
Why use a sealable container?
- It helps keeps pathogens out — aka, things that could make your plants sick next year.
- It helps prevent insects from laying their eggs and overwintering in your soil. (Yep, it happens.)
- And it’s just an easy way to store it.
2) You may be able to take used potting soil to a yard waste drop-off program.
Many cities offer “leaf and yard waste drop-off” programs in the fall. They’re a great way to dispose of the materials from your flowerpots, like your dead flowers and old soils. And the materials you drop off will be used to create compost, which is good for our soils and plants.
The companies that do commercial composting have machines that can heat the soil and leaf material to very hot temperatures, so the compost can be safely used next year.
To see if your city offers this type of program:
- Look on your city’s website OR check nearby cities. Some cities only make these programs available to their own residents. But other towns make their leaf and yard-waste drop off services available to anyone.
- Search for words like, “Leaf drop-off,” or, “Yard-waste drop-off.” Often times, these programs aren’t advertised as composting programs.
- Read up on what’s allowed for yard waste. Dead flowers are usually allowed, but make sure they’ll take your used potting soil too. I usually take the potting soil with me and ask when I get there. (I’ve never had an issue, but I imagine it can vary by city.)
- Follow the instructions for the drop-off. For example, you may be asked to put your yard waste in brown composting bags. They look like tall paper bags. You often can find them at local hardware stores. Or, the instructions may say you can bring your yard waste in any type of container. They’re just going to have you dump it out — as was the case in the photo above.
3) You can add the old soil (and flowers) to your own compost pile.
Home composting is a topic for another time. But just know it’s another thing you can do!
4) You can mix old potting soil into your flower garden beds or spread it lightly across the top.
The dirt from your flowerpots isn’t adding anything beneficial from a nutritional perspective. Over the summer, all the good stuff left the soil with each watering.
But we have such tricky soils in the Rocky Mountain region — like clay and sand. The potting soil may help improve the structure of your soil in the ground. That can lead to better water drainage for your plants, so they have happier roots.
And hey, it beats putting the soil in a landfill.
Here are a few tips:
- It’s easiest to add old potting soil to areas that don’t have plants.
- But you also can spread a thin layer of potting soil on the ground near plants. Keep it away from the “crowns” of your plants. The crown is where a plant’s stem comes up from the ground. It’s where the stem and roots connect to each other.
- If you’re going to mix the old soil into the ground near existing plants like perennials (the plants that return each year), be careful where you dig. You don’t want to disturb any plant roots.
What if your flowers had disease issues at the end of the season?
Then, put ALL the contents from that flowerpot in the trash — including the potting soil.
Disease can carry over from one year to the next in both the soil AND on the flowerpots themselves. It’s possible to accidentally spread last season’s issues to next season’s flowers.
You also may want to sterilize your flowerpots, so you can keep next season’s flowers from getting sick.
Are you the extra-thorough type?
If you want to reuse some of your potting soil next year, it’s possible to sterilize your old potting soil to reduce insect and disease issues. The University of California Extension has helpful tips on how to heat up your potting soil to the right temperature. (Scroll to page 5 of their PDF.)
Full disclosure, I’ve never done this.
But it’s worth considering if you had disease or insect issues this year, and you really want to reuse your old potting soil.
Cheers to you for exploring what to do with old potting soil and finding ways to use it in a productive way!
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Sep 12, 2025 | Gardening for Pollinators, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
It’s tempting to want to get out early in the fall and tidy up your western garden for winter, especially if you’re having a mild fall. But is it too early? When’s the best time to cut back perennials in Colorado and similar states?
In this article, you’ll get the scoop on:
- Why it helps to wait to trim down plants
- Whether it’s better to cut back perennials in the fall or spring in Colorado (hint: it depends!)
Let’s start with your garden in the fall…
No need to rush it. Put your feet up. Enjoy the fall color!
Your plants will thank you for it.
On autumn days, it may look like your perennials aren’t doing much. But they’re doing A LOT… under ground.
In the fall, soil temperatures are still warm, and air temperatures are cooling off. For most plants, these are ideal conditions for growing roots. And healthy roots are the secret to bigger, stronger plants next season, which is so important in our gotta-have-some-moxie West.
So, don’t cut back your perennials too early, especially if they’re still green.
Instead, let them gather as much energy as they can for their roots, so they can come back strong and showy in the spring. Wait until you’ve gone through several hard freezes before you get out your pruners. (A hard freeze is when temperatures drop to 28 degrees or below.)
When temps start dipping and dancing their way into the mid-20s, you’ll likely see the leaves on your perennials wither, brown, curl or drop. That’s your cue to prune IF you want to cut back your perennials in the fall.
Of course, then the question becomes…
Is it better to cut back perennials in the fall or spring in Colorado and similar western states?
The short answer is: It depends.
Mama Nature likes to keep us on our toes!
Let’s assume you don’t live in an area that’s at risk for wildfires. If so, there are LOTS of good reasons to wait until late March, early April or even later to clean up leaf litter and cut back most perennials. For example, you’ll:
But there are a few instances when it helps to clean up some plants in the late fall. For example, it’s a good idea to cut back:
- Diseased plants or plants with pesky insects, so the problem doesn’t carry over to next season.
- Plants that spread seeds like a fairy godmother tossing pixie dust, assuming you don’t want more plants next year.
- Dried out leaves and stems if you live in a wildland-urban interface and your home has some wildfire risk. (The Colorado State Forest Service has a helpful PDF on how to clean up your plants to reduce wildfire risk.)
There is no one-size-fits all approach to western garden clean-up.
What I do in my Colorado perennial garden
When I first moved to Denver, I used to cut back my perennials in the fall. I left my flowerpot clean-up until the spring.
Now I do the opposite.
I tackle my flowerpots in the fall. (Here’s why.) And I wait until April to cut back the majority of my perennials. I wait until I see new spring growth appearing from the ground. I try to wait until late April to clean out the leaf debris in my garden.
Because native bees often nest in the pithy plant stems (like rose canes), I set aside those types of plant stalks once I trim the plants down. Some bees don’t emerge until later in the spring.
Why not clean up the garden earlier, like in the late fall or in February?
Two reasons:
- Unpredictable Colorado weather. I’ve learned the hard way that we tend to bounce back and forth between winter and summer. Big temperature swings in February, March and April can be tough on our plants. I leave last year’s growth on the plants as long as possible to give them as much protection as possible.
- Pollinators. Many bees that are nesting in plant stems and under leaf debris aren’t ready to emerge that early. Plus, our big temperature swings are hard on overwintering insects. The leaf litter helps insulate them.
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Sep 12, 2025 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
In the fall, one of the questions that often comes up is:
“When should I empty my flowerpots?”
There are different schools of thought on when to empty your flowerpots, so I’m going to share several options. That way, you can decide which makes the most sense for you.
#1) Empty your flowerpots when you’re ready.
I have a neighbor who has a gorgeous container garden every summer. Typically, she reaches a point in the early fall when she decides:
“I’ve had enough.”
She’s over it. Her flowers still look good, but she’s ready to be done with watering and deadheading. She wants to empty her flowerpots while the weather is still nice.
You may feel guilty about pulling your flowers out early. Heck, you may feel guilty about pulling your flowers out anytime!
But chances are, you’ve planted “annuals” in your flowerpots. True annuals go through their life cycle within 1 year.
So, it’s 100% okay to empty your flowerpots if:
- You reach a point where you’ve had enough OR
- You want to do your fall chores before it gets too cold
Your flowers are nearing the end of their life cycle, and the killing freezes ARE coming… You may just be beating Mother Nature to them.
#2) Empty your pots when your flowers stop looking good due to frosts and freezes.
(This is what I do.)
The majority of the flowers in your containers can’t survive freezing temperatures. This means there’s a point when the flowers in your containers will get nipped by cold temperatures and die.
So, how will you know if your flowers have frozen and are dying?
If your flowers have been nipped by a frost or a freeze:
- Your flowers will often change colors. You may see them turn brown, black, gray or a yellowish cream.
- They may go limp.
- They may shrivel and dry up.
- Sometimes, they’ll get mushy.
They’ll no longer look right, and it’s their way of telling you:
“Hey, it’s time to dig me out of your flowerpot!”
If you have frosts or freezes in your forecast and you don’t want your flowers to get nipped, check out 6 ways to protect your flowers from frost and freezing.
#3) Empty your pots BEFORE you start getting consistent freezes and/or snow.
So, let’s say you’re having a busy fall. Your plants have frozen and died, but you haven’t had time to empty your flowerpots yet. You may want to think about emptying your flowerpots BEFORE you start getting consistent freezes or snow.
Here’s why:
There are some types of flowerpots — like terracotta pots, ceramic pots and even concrete flowerpots — that can chip, crack or crumble over the winter.
Check out the photo below for an example of what flowerpot freeze damage can look like.
#4) Dig out your flowers if you want to put something else in your flowerpots.
If you don’t mind leaving your flowerpots out, you can turn them into decorative planters during other parts of the year — especially if they’re in a spot that’s protected from the elements.
For example, you could:
- Replace your summer flowers with fall flowers, like the mums in the photo below
- Put pumpkins, gourds or decorative branches in your flowerpots in the fall
- Spruce up your containers with evergreen bows or other festive adornments in December
- Fill them with flowers in the spring that like chillier weather (like the pansies pictured earlier on this page)
There’s no rule that says you can only use your flowerpots during the summer!
If this sounds like too much work, then of course, you don’t have to do it.
Just know you have options!
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Sep 12, 2025 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States, Garden design Ideas, Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden
No one wants to end up with extra garden chores and sad-looking plants
But that’s what can happen if you accidentally pick plants that are known to struggle in Colorado landscapes — particularly during winter.
So, in this tip, you’ll get the scoop on 3 popular plants to AVOID planting in Colorado and similar western states. These plants can be high maintenance here. (Do you remember the TV show, “What Not to Wear?” Think of this article as: “What Not to Plant.”)
These 3 plants are very popular in other parts of the country, but they don’t like our winters. They tend to struggle in our:
- Dry climate
- Drying winter winds
- Intense winter sun
- Big temperature swings (from above freezing, to below freezing like a kindergarten seesaw)
You’ll probably see these plants at your garden center, so use this article to be a smarter shopper. Let’s dig in!
Boxwoods
Boxwoods are decorative shrubs. They grow well in regions of the country with milder winters. It’s hard to open a garden magazine without seeing a lush, eastern garden that’s lined with boxwoods.
Boxwoods are evergreen. When they’re planted in a place where they’re happy, they typically stay green through the entire winter. I like to think of evergreen plants as staying “forever green.” It also means they don’t go dormant (into hibernation mode), so it’s important to keep them regularly watered through the winter.
Want to learn more about winter watering? Find helpful tips from Colorado State University in this PDF.
Unfortunately, in western states like Colorado and Utah, boxwoods can be temperamental
During the winter, boxwood leaves have a tendency to dry out — often turning brown or orange.
You also may see translucent yellow leaves (like the leaves below in the upper left).
You may hear this called “winter burn,” and it isn’t a pretty look.
When you see boxwoods at the garden center, they’re going to look lush, green and super cute. But save yourself the headaches and skip them!
“But I have my heart set on boxwoods!” In this case, head to a locally-owned garden center. Ask whether they carry types of boxwoods that have a better track record in states like Colorado and Utah.
You may have more luck if you plant boxwoods in sheltered places in your yard that face east, northeast or north.
And just know they’re likely going to need more work and water to keep them looking good.
Manhattan Euonymus
(pronounced: yoo-on-uh-muhs)
These plants are like super-sized boxwoods. When they’re green, they look good.
But this is another shrub that can struggle in Colorado winters
You may be wondering, “Okay, so what does winter damage look like on a Manhattan euonymus?”
The leaves on your Manhattan euonymus will turn yellow. The may become brittle and dried out. The leaves will start dropping off.
As the dead leaves slowly fall off, it’s like bad New Year’s Eve confetti. You may find yourself raking up these leaves for months … and months … and months.
(I’m speaking from personal experience here. I used to have Manhattan euonymus in my yard.)
With good watering, you should get buds for new leaves when temperatures warm up, but it takes time. When these shrubs get winter burn, they don’t look good for much of the year.
If you want shrubs that stay consistently green through our yo-yo temperature swings during winter, this isn’t it. 🙂
Add Manhattan euonymus to your “What NOT to plant in Colorado and similar western states” list.
Arborvitaes
(pronounced: arbor-vie-tees)
Arborvitaes are trees and shrubs that are often used as hedges.
They’re a popular landscape plant in humid regions of the country. They grow quickly, and they’re evergreen. Again, this means typically stay green over the winter. They don’t go dormant.
But arborvitaes are another plant to avoid in Colorado landscapes
Arborvitaes like a lot of moisture, so they may struggle if you aren’t great about winter watering.
Not to mention, our drying winter winds and our harsh freezes can be brutal for them. You may see them turn brown — almost like a rust color.
Some years, your arborvitaes may do fine and make it through the winter without an issue.
Other years?
Not so much.
If you want to save yourself some headaches (and avoid the expense of replacing dead plants), skip arborvitaes in your Colorado landscape.
So, does this mean you CAN’T plant any of these shrubs and trees?
Friends, the beauty of gardening is you can try planting (almost) anything. You may be able to find a protected location in your yard where these plants are less vulnerable to winter damage.
But if you’re planning your landscape in Colorado, Utah or a similar western state, growing plants that are better adapted to our winters will take less effort!
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Oct 20, 2025 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
It would be awesome to be named “The Perfect Gardener” after a summer of growing flowers — complete with dancing squirrels and a pitch-perfect choir of cicadas.
But alas, most of us weren’t born with a spade in one hand and a geranium in the other.
So, the next best thing is to find ways to shorten our learning curve for next year.
As we near the end of the summer flowerpot season in western states like Colorado, Utah and Wyoming, it’s a great time to ask…
How’d your flowerpots turn out?
- Which flowers made your heart sing with joy?
- Which flowers were duds?
- What would you do again next year?
- And what would you change?
Now, before your mind starts shouting:
“Ugggghhhhhh, gardening is so much work!!!”
I say:
Keep it simple, baby.
You can do this on your phone with just a few pics.
If you’re feeling ambitious, add in a couple of helpful notes in between sips of your favorite pumpkin spice latte.
Here are 3 ways to keep this simple:
(1) Take a quick photo of each flowerpot with your phone.
Don’t worry about getting the lighting perfect. These photos are just to help you remember what you planted and how your container garden turned out.
If you want to stop here, that’s fine. You’ve got a good visual record for next year.
If you like to stay organized, add the photos to a new album on your phone. Name the album something easy to remember like: Flowers 2022.
Tip: Feel free to use photos you took earlier in the season, especially if that’s when your container garden looked prettiest. Or, if you want to see the growth of your pots, it’s always fun to include a “just planted” image from early in the summer and a late season image (like a before and after).
(2) If you saved your plant tags when you bought your plants, snap photos of those too.
Saving the plant tags is a simple way to keep track of the flower varieties you bought, particularly if:
- You loved a specific flower or
- You don’t want to repeat a specific flower next year
If you didn’t save your plant tags this year, no worries. You can do it next year.
Tip: You also can snap these photos when you plant your containers.
I like to group the plant tags together by flowerpot to make them easier to remember, but you don’t have to be this structured. Here are a few ways to group them:
- Group your plant tags into “winners” and “duds” (flowers you loved and flowers you wouldn’t repeat)
- Group your plant tags by flowerpot
Here’s an example of organizing the plant tags by flowerpot:
If you have a bazillion photos in your phone, like me, and you want to stay organized:
- Add these photos of your plant tags to your “Flowers 2022” folder.
That way, you’ll have them at your fingertips when you go back to the garden center next year. And, you’ll know EXACTLY which flowers you bought.
(3) Jot down anything you want to remember in your Notes app.
It can be helpful to add notes on your phone, so they’re easily accessible next year too.
But, if you prefer to write them out or type them on your computer, feel free to do that instead! You can always take a photo of your notes.
If you’re wondering what to write down, here are a few questions to consider:
- Which flowers did you really like? (Why?)
- Which flowers were duds? (Why?)
- Which flowers were too much work?
- Which flowers got gobbled up by Japanese beetles, deer or other critters?
- What would you do again in future flowerpots?
- What would you do differently?
You don’t have to turn into Leo Tolstoy here and write a 1200-page novel. There’s no need to answer ALL these questions or write notes about every flowerpot.
Just note what you want to remember. Make your thoughts as short as you want.
Don’t know the names of the flowers in your containers? No worries! You can say “the purple flower” or “the lime-green vine.” You’ll have the photo to go with your note, so you can see what it looks like.
(BTW, this is another bonus to saving the plant tags. They help you learn plant names.)
Here are examples of notes I’ve taken:
Now, you’ll have everything easily organized on your phone.
You’ll be able to quickly pull up your photos and notes when you start thinking about planting next spring.
You’ll be able to avoid anything that may have gone slightly awry this summer.
And if you’d like, you can repeat the flowers that looked really, really good.
Because we are all about gardening smarter, not harder, am I right?
Related topics that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Sep 12, 2025 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
I used to leave everything in my flowerpots until spring. The whole shebang. Dead flowers, old potting soil, all of it. And for a few years, everything was fine.
But then, I lost a few flowerpots to cracking. (Ugh.) I also learned about some pesky insects that like to overwinter in potting soil.
Now I’m on Team Fall.
There is no right or wrong approach here, so if you prefer to wait until spring, it’s okay! But here are 5 reasons to consider emptying your flowerpots in the fall.
#1: Fall is a good time to get rid of your old potting soil (dirt).
In the fall, I’ve found there are more ways to get rid of old potting soil, like local leaf and composting drop-offs. Not every one of them takes old potting soil, but some of them do. It’s one less thing to worry about later.
#2: You take insects out of the equation.
There are pesty insects—like leaf miners and budworms—that will overwinter as “pupae” (little cocoons) in soil. And your container of potting soil can be a great place to call home. Emptying your flowerpots in the fall helps take insects out of the equation, so you’re less likely to have issues next year.
#3: You can protect your flowerpots from breaking over the winter.
Some flowerpots are vulnerable to cracking and breaking over the winter—like clay, ceramic and resin pots.
Here are examples of winter freeze damage on several neighbors’ flowerpots. Do you see how parts of the flowerpots have cracked and fallen off?
Some pots can absorb moisture directly into their surfaces. When that moisture freezes, it can crack or damage your pots. I suspect this is what happened in the photos above.
In other cases, moisture can get into the old potting soil that’s in your pots. When the soil freezes, it can expand and break your pots—including your resin (plastic) pots.
I’ve learned this lesson the hard way.
And we get A LOT of freeze/thaws in the West!
When you empty your flowerpots in the fall, you remove the potential of old potting soil freezing, expanding and breaking your pots. Plus, you can move your flowerpots (that aren’t too heavy) to a garage or a covered porch, so they’re protected from moisture. That way, they last longer.
#4: You can remove the salt build-up on your pots while it’s still relatively fresh.
Cleaning your flowerpots is like cleaning up after a dinner party. Most of us don’t ENJOY scrubbing the lasagna dish or the mashed potato pan, but it’s a heck of a lot easier to get the residue off while it’s still fresh.
The same is true with your flowerpots.
We have hard water in many parts of the West, including Colorado. It can leave deposits of different types of salts (calcium, magnesium and iron) on the inside of your flowerpots. The build-up looks like a white, crusty material. It’s similar to the crusty material that can appear on kitchen and bathroom faucets.
And some types of popular flower fertilizers are based in salts. These salts can build up inside your pots too.
Do you see the salt build-up in the below? One of my neighbors hadn’t cleaned her flowerpots before. She was struggling to keep her flowers looking good. (Her flowerpots also didn’t have holes.)
At some point, all this salt build-up in your pots and soil can affect your flowers, especially after it builds up over a few years. It can become toxic to your plants.
Not to mention, salt attracts H2O molecules. It can pull water out of your plant’s roots.
I’ve found that this salt residue is easier to remove in the fall when it’s still fresh. It can become more of a chore to remove after time has passed, especially if you don’t do it every year.
#5: You have one less thing to do in the spring!
I know, I know, this means you have one MORE thing to do in the fall. But hey, it can be nice to get it done. That way, you can focus on cleaning up your garden in the spring or doing more of the fun flowerpot stuff, like planting.
Related tips that may interest you:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Sep 12, 2025 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, In-ground garden, Waterwise Gardening in the Intermountain West
Winter is a marathon for our plants in Colorado.
It’s an endurance test, and it can take its toll on our landscapes. Typically:
- Most of us don’t get a lot of precipitation during winter in Colorado.
- We get drying winds that pull the moisture out of plants.
- We also get wild temperature swings above and below freezing — like animated 7-year-olds riding up and down on a seesaw.
All of this is tough on our plants.
And it’s especially tough in our gardens that face south or west. These plants get warm afternoon sunshine, and then the temperatures drop at night. As the ground freezes and thaws, it creates cracks in the soil, creating little Grand Canyons. This can push our plants’ roots up. Now our plants’ roots are more vulnerable to getting cold and drying out.
And winter can go on, and on, and on…
Our Colorado gardens have to put up with a lot!
So, if you’re wondering, “Should I water my Colorado garden in the fall and winter?”
Yes, it can be a good idea for many plants if you’re having a dry fall or winter.
If you’re going through a prolonged dry period, hook up a hose and give your plant babies a deep watering, so their roots stay hydrated and healthy.
Read on for specific watering tips!
During a dry autumn and winter…
Water 1-2 times per month if:
- It’s been windy. Or:
- You’ve gotten less than 1″ of moisture from rain or snow.
Just as a point of reference, 1″ of rainfall usually works out to to about 12-13″ of snow. So, a dusting of snow — or even a couple of inches — doesn’t add a lot of water for your plants!
Make sure:
- Temperatures are above 40 degrees.
- The ground isn’t covered with snow.
- You water in the middle of the day when it’s warm. Mid-day watering is ideal in the fall and winter, so foliage can dry before nightfall and water can soak into the ground.
Pro tip: Make a note on your calendar or on your phone when you water. It can help you keep track.
What plants should you water in your Colorado garden?
New plants tend to be more vulnerable to winter stress. However, even waterwise perennials that have been growing in your garden for a number of years can experience winter dieback during drought. (Perennials are your plants that come back each year.)
If you’re pressed for time, focus your watering efforts on your:
- Trees and shrubs, especially those you planted in the last 2-3 years AND those that keep their leaves or needles over winter
- Any perennials you planted in the fall
- Any perennial gardens that face south, west or are exposed to wind
There are exceptions on what to water.
Because Mama Nature makes her own rules, y’all!
Xeric plants (those that need VERY little supplemental water) that have been growing in your garden for a season or two likely don’t need any irrigation from you.
Many parts of Colorado are in a “rain shadow.”
In the Front Range of Colorado, we live in a rain shadow of the mountains. Weather systems lose their moisture on the windward sides and tops of mountains. This casts a shadow of dryness — aka, a rain shadow — onto the Front Range.
The same thing can happen on the Western Slope. If you live in western Colorado, you can get a rain shadow effect from Utah.
So, if you haven’t gotten much moisture or it’s been windy in your garden this fall or winter, pull out the hose to water.
If you’d like specific watering tips…
The Colorado State University Extension has more details on fall and winter watering, including how to water your trees.
And for related topics, check out:
by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Sep 12, 2025 | Best Flowers for Colorado, Utah & Similar States
It may seem like a strange time to chat about spring flowers…
… when we have pumpkins and Halloween decorations appearing in stores.
But if you’re interested in growing spring flowers…
Autumn is the ideal time to plant spring bulbs in most parts of the West.
For example:
- In most elevations of Colorado, the ideal times to plant spring bulbs are typically late September and October.
- In northern Utah, the ideal times are usually October and early November.
Yep, you plant these flowers in the fall — not the spring!
Weird, right?
Okay, technically, you plant their bulbs.
Think of a bulb like a battery for the plant.
It stores energy (food and water) for the flower.
It may seem counter-intuitive that you plant spring bulbs in the fall, but:
- Bulbs need to go through a cold period, so they can come up and give you big, showy color in the spring.
- They also need a little time to establish their roots before the ground freezes.
Here are 3 popular spring flowers for western gardens.
These spring flowers offer beautiful pops of color, and they’re relatively low maintenance. (Cheers to that!)
Once planted, these flowers can return for several years with minimal effort.
Tulips
(officially, Tulipa)
This is what tulips look like. They come in a WIDE range of colors.
Tulips bloom in the spring, but not all at one time.
There are early, middle and late spring tulips.
This means that some start blooming earlier than others.
The package of bulbs you buy or the signage at the garden center should tell you when the tulips will bloom (early, middle or late spring).
That way, you can pick bulbs with the bloom at different times, so you can get longer-lasting color.
Tulips like sunny conditions and soil that drains well.
If you have a damp spot where water sits in the ground or if your soil is dense clay, it’s probably not the best place for tulips.
What’s dense clay like, you ask?
Imagine sticking your shovel in the ground, and the soil sticks to your shovel like bubble gum to a shoe.
When clay soil is damp, it’s sticky, heavy and dense. It’s tough for water to drain.
Tulips don’t mind if the ground is on the dryer side during the summer, which is good for our semi-arid summers in the West.
In my opinion, the biggest downside to tulips is…
… that animals LOVE them.
Deer, rabbits, squirrels, voles. Take a number!
In my back garden, squirrels decapitate my tulips every spring, just as the petals are opening.
I’ve tried a variety of suggested remedies, from animal-repellent sprays to cayenne pepper. (Seriously.)
The only thing I’ve found that works is to fence the tulips off.
Not the prettiest look, ahem.
So, if you have critters, you may want to check out the other spring flowers below.
Daffodils
(officially, Narcissus)
These are daffodils. They come in colors like yellow, white, orange, peach or pink.
Typically, daffodils prefer sunny conditions and soil that drains well.
You may be able to get away with a partially sunny spot, but your daffodils may not bloom as well.
In the semi-arid west, you may want to plant your daffodils near a downspout or a low spot in your garden.
Why?
Daffodils tend to be happiest with moist (but not wet) soil.
If the ground is too wet, daffodil bulbs will rot.
Daffodils are not only beautiful, they’re also resistant to many animals.
YESSS!!
Normally, deer, rabbits and other rodents avoid daffodils. That’s a plus if you live in an area with your fair share of critters.
(Daffodils can be toxic to dogs, so keep that in mind if you have fur babies.)
Allium
(commonly known as Ornamental Onion)
Allium flowers add a hint of whimsy to your garden. They look like giant lollipops!
They’re one of my favorite spring flowers.
You can find allium flowers in purple, white and even blue.
Yes, BLUE!
Similar to tulips and daffodils, allium will give you the best show when you plant them in places in your garden that get a lot of sun.
And like the other spring flowers we’ve discussed, allium flowers bloom at staggered times.
Allium are related to onions.
In fact, they’re commonly referred to as “ornamental onions.”
Deer are not big fans of these plants.
Rabbits tend to avoid most allium as well.
When allium flowers are done blooming, you may see gardeners spray-paint the finished blooms.
Check out the photo below for an example.
I think this is a fun trick to highlight the colorful, round shapes after the flower petals fall off.
You also can just snip off the dead blooms.
That way, the plant can focus its energy on recharging its bulb for next season.
If you live in Idaho, Oregon or Washington: Your states have special restrictions on buying allium bulbs. The University of Idaho Extension has a helpful publication explaining the rules for Idaho.
Do you live someplace with really cold winter temperatures?
Some types of tulips, daffodils and allium do better than others in frigid temperatures.
If you have a mountain garden or you live someplace with really cold winters, make sure the bulbs you’re buying grow well in your “plant hardiness zone.”
Not sure what a plant hardiness zone is? Get the scoop here.
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by Ann at Go West Gardener | Updated: Oct 20, 2025 | Gardening Tips and Tricks, Western Container Gardening With Flowers
The seasons are changing. It’s time to figure out what to do with your outdoor pots in the winter.
(Good thinking!)
Before you start getting winter snow and freezing temps, it helps to:
1) Empty the dead flowers and dirt (or “soil” in garden lingo) from your outdoor pots.
2) Move your empty pots someplace dry. Ideally, you’d store them someplace that stays above freezing (like an attached garage). If that isn’t possible, you could put them on a covered porch or in a shed.
If your pots are too heavy to move…
3) Turn them upside down OR cover and wrap them with a thick plastic tarp to help keep the moisture out.
Why does it help to protect your outdoor pots?
If you leave the soil in your containers and moisture gets in the soil, the soil can freeze and expand, damaging your pots.
Even resin (plastic) pots can get freeze damage and crack open. I learned this the hard way when one of my resin flowerpots cracked down the side, like a man splitting his pants. Oops.
Some flowerpot surfaces can hold moisture too, like glazed ceramic and terracotta pots.
Here are examples of winter freeze damage on several of my neighbors’ flowerpots.
Do you have to do anything with your outdoor pots in the winter?
It’s a matter of your risk tolerance for your pots.
I used to leave my pots outside all winter with old soil and dead plants still in them. But after ruining several pots in winter freezes, I’m all for protecting my pots during the winter.
With that said, I have friends who don’t do anything with their outdoor pots in the winter. They’ve NEVER had issues with their pots breaking. And they have glazed ceramic pots that should be vulnerable.
It all depends on how much you want to risk it.
If you have pretty outdoor pots that you don’t want to lose, it’s a good idea to protect them from freezing winter conditions.
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